vtecpaoche

What's the best main spring weight to use on a SP-01 with the FPB and factory ammo? I tried a 11.5# spring for a friend's build but still get the occasional light strikes in single action. Everything is polished where I could and the trigger pull is super smooth. I started with the CGW firing pin/spring combo and then switched to the CZC/RAMI firing pin spring combo. Both of them resulted in light strikes. I then tried the CZC firing pin and CGW firing pin spring combo as the RAMI spring looks no different than a stock CZ firing pin spring. Further investigation found the firing pin block rubbing slightly on the CZC firing pin which may be slowing the FP just enough to result in a light strike. This is probably because the FPB is slightly out of spec so I removed some material until it was no longer rubbing. The firing pin moves smoothly and freely back and forth afterwards with the FPB depressed. We also tested this with the pistol assembled and pulling the trigger to the point right before the hammer drops to ensure the firing pin moves freely with the lifter depressing the FPB. The rear of the CZC firing pin barely stuck out of the slide so the hammer did not have much surface to contact. I opened up the area where the retaining pin holds the firing pin so the firing pin sticks out just a hair more so that the hammer can get a better hit. This still resulted in the occasional light strike. In frustration, we switched back to the 13# mainspring and no light strikes. I'm just not satisfied that a SP-01 cannot use a 11.5# mainspring. I'm curious as to whether I have a faulty 11.5# mainspring on the SP-01 and that this is actually lighter than 11.5# which is causing light strikes. Another option is to test it with the FPB removed to see if that is the cause. I have two Shadows that are running with no issues with the 11.5# mainspring.

What hammer does it have? I have a Koenig hammer and it sounds totally different when I rack the slide or when I dry fire.

I have the DAA Racemaster with the magnetic block. While running a shooter, the gun pops out of the holster even though the lock was engaged. Fortunately, it happened while I was not the shooter but it sucks to drop your expensive gun. I resorted to bagging the gun for the rest of the match. The gun fits snug in the holster and it feels secure with no wobble. I did try a test at home to see if I can replicate it. I locked the gun in the holster and proceeded to jump around. Sure enough, the gun fell out. I'm not sure what to do with this holster. I like it but I'm not confident at all that the gun would not fall out while simply moving around. Sure, I can stop RO'ing but I find it difficult to go thru my stage plans with my shooting hand trying to hold the gun in the holster. Bagging it between stages is an inconvenient option. I did reach out to DAA but no response.

Make sure you remove the retaining screws.Oh, come on. I already did that. Even a sight pusher won't move it. On my Shadow it took a large sturdy padded vice, a large sturdy brass punch and a BF hammer. Then beat the hell out of it and it will move. They put them in to stay and they don't mean for you to ever move them. Them suckers are in there Mr.!My first Shadow went back the CZ Custom because this didn't work either. They used a steel punch but it moved. This is exactly what I did although I didn't have to resort to a steel punch.

I used the plastic tipped aluminum punch that I got from my Dawson sights in the past. I looked at the direction the sights were installed and punched the old sights out in the same direction they were installed from. Heavy brass hammer was used to punch it out but any heavy hammer will work. The sights were installed on mine from the left side.

I reached out to Taran as I just lost one recently. They sent me a bag with all sorts of pins. I found the right one and re-installed it. Kudos to the folks at TT.

Any updates on the CZC extended FP/RAMI FP Spring combo? I'm having some issues with light strikes with the 11.5# mainspring. I have the CGW extended FP/spring combo, reduced power firing pin block plunger spring and CZC hammer (polished on the sides). The firing pin block was lightly polished but I have not polished the firing pin though. Changing the mainspring to 13# seems to set everything off. The rounds are Freedom Munitions rounds. All the primers seem to be seated below flush although I suspect the primers are hard.

Buy the 38 super 126 mm mag body, get 9mm followers/springs and the spacer and you have a 126 mm mag for 9mm. I also used the stock 38 super mags in the past with my 9mm rounds without issues although I load the rounds long.

Update on my issue. I took just a little bit more off the safety and the hammer drops on SA now.

I started filing on the sear that contacts the safety but changed to file on the safety instead. I still have the factory trigger pin. It was functioning fine before swapping the hammer. The other parts were functioning fine before swapping the hammer. After swapping the hammer, the only changes were to the sear and safety where I removed just enough material for the safety to engage. One other thought was that while fitting the safety, I could not pull the trigger in SA even if the safety was no engaged. Maybe I took just enough material off the safety so that it can engage but not enough for the sear to allow the hammer to slip in SA. Would that be possible?

It's the stock trigger with no over travel screw. I'll check the trigger bar spring when I get home tonight.

I have a CZ 75 SP 01 that I'm working on. I followed the instructions here and polished all the parts. I installed the following: Short Reset System 2 (HS-12000 hammer spring, extended firing pin with reduced power firing pin spring, firing pin retaining pin, reduced power firing pin spring, "short" arm lifter) Disconnector Type 2 Floating Trigger Pin Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring Production Legal CZ Competition Hammer I installed the hammer afterwards as the trigger pull was still 6 lbs, 14 oz in DA and 3 lbs, 8.7 oz in SA. After installing the hammer, I dealt with the issue of the safety not engaging so I went to file the safety so it would engage. With the safety now engaging, there seems to be an issue with the SA pull. On the first pull in SA, the sear does not slip off to allow the hammer to fall. When I release the trigger and pull it again, the hammer falls. This only happens with the slide on. When the slide is off, there is no issue with the SA pull. I've read about issues resetting in SA. Is this the same issue I am having? This only started happening after I swapped the hammer.

I really only use the rear ones but I like having front serrations. I tried using them in practice but stopped after my buddy told me I swept myself.

The Wilson lug cutter is no longer available. Is the Brownells lug cutter substantially different?

Oops, I meant I have not tried the Mec Gar mags before. I've definitely tried the Metal Form mags. I shot two matches with a mix of Tripp and Metal Firn mags. It took me a while to figure it out which mags were causing issues when I switched to reloads from factory bullets. I'm using moly coated RN bullets. The Metal Form mags are just sitting around now. I can always use them for factory bullets or as Barney mags but will definitely pick up more Tripp mags.

I load out to 1.163 for the same reason as I do not want to adjust my dies from major. My reloads will occasionally hang in the middle of my Metalform mags. No issues with my Tripp Cobra mags. The rear spacer looks thicker on the Metalform as well as there is slight notch in the front of the Metalform mags which can catch the front of the bullet. This does not happen all the time though and probably happens if I do not load them in the magazine a little funny. I have not tried the Metalform ones yet. I have not had any issues with either magazine thru my Spartan with factory loads though.

I use Movie Maker for my PC. Easy enough to add titles, captions, split and join movies. I did not try syncing other videos though but I think it can be done. I just searched YouTube on how to do each item and was up and running in no time.

This thread convinced me to get a conversion kit for my 1911/2011. I went with an older Marvel Unit 1 with1911 magazines. The slide does not lock back on this unit. I'd also like to use it with my 2011. Marvel charges $63 per mag. Nelson Custom has a special for $30 per magazine. Has anyone tried the Nelson Custom mags with the Marvel units?

Never tried it on a CZ but I've done this with my Glock. I know this doesn't answer your question but there are 10 round magazines in stock. Below are two places that have it in stock. http://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/magazines/cz-pistol-magazines/11102-cz-75-85-9mm-10-round.html?___SID=U http://gregcotellc.com/cart/cz-factory-magazines-base-pads-c-173/cz-75b-cz-85-or-cz-75-sp01-9mm-10-rd-factory-magazine-11102-p-1427.html They also have the 10 round 40 S&W magazine if you want to try and see if it works for 9mm.

There are a couple of posts about springs and 9mm in the gun springs section to help you get an idea of what weight and type of spring people are using. I'm using Wolff springs as that is what I had at home. ISMI seems to be popular brand as per the post below. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116064#entry1315911 I used a Dawson tool less guide rod but a regular full length guide rod would work as well. No shock buffs for me.

I started with a 10 lb recoil spring on a custom 9mm 2011 build. I felt it was not quite balanced with the 10 lb spring. I dropped it to 9 lbs and finally settled on 8 lbs. My ammo is at 132 PF. I think you need to play around and see what works for you as it's different for each person. I disabled my grip safety on mine as I grip really high on the beavertail and have a habit of not engaging the grip safety unless I adjust my grip back down. Try dry firing it to see if it is a problem. If it isn't, you can leave it enabled.

Sounds correct. Use a throat reamer to slowly remove material and check with the plunk test after. Once done with plunk test, check if the gun cycles with some dummy rounds created to the exact length as your live rounds.

They are probably busy working on a super secret upgrade for the Shadow 2.

Yes, it should provided the mags for the P07 allow it. My reloads have an OAL of 1.163 as I was mainly setup to load for a 1911. My Accu-Shadow and the mags have no issues with using those rounds now so I don't have to constantly adjust the press. I would suggest doing a plunk test with rounds that normally work for you Glock in you P07 barrel to see if that is the issue first before you start reaming the barrel.

Wilson Combat just released their version. They seem to have versions that accept different mags, Glock, Beretta or M&P.