vtecpaoche

Thanks for confirming. I'm curious as to why the range of adjustment is different for each RTS2 I have received. You would figure the quality control would be more consistent. I would go the shim route if it fitted as that would give me more adjustment but my concern is that there is something indeed defective on the current sight such as the glass is loose which is what a fellow competitor here had an issue with. He finally gave up on the RTS2 and went with the DeltaPoint Pro.

Yes, but the poster sent back their RTS2 for repairs as they thought the adjustment screw continued to spin while the lock screw was tight. My issue is a bit different as I've run out of adjustment. I'm on my 3rd RTS2 and I'm feeling pretty frustrated with the dot. I did read that post and backed the lock screw sufficiently by going 2 full turns instead of just 1 1/2 turns in my last range session with no luck. I'm trying to see if there are other options and if other people have had limitations of the dot adjustment after receiving a replacement. It just seems weird that my V3 could zero but the replacement V4 could not. The only thing to really change between the two is the dot.

I'm on my third RTS2 now and still going thru issues. The first one came with my CK Arms gun that didn't have sufficient elevation either and was about an inch low. I got a replacement that was running a V3 board that zeroed right out of the box. I had that one for 2 years and the dot started cutting out during matches and even during dry fire sessions. That was sent back and I got a replacement this March with a V4 board. Unfortunately, there is insufficient elevation again. When I went to zero at 20 yards, I was not even hitting the target so I moved up to 10 yards. At 10 yards, all my hits were low. I tried to raise the elevation and the highest I got was about 3-4 inches low and the elevation was maxed out. I'm trying to work with C-More on this. It would sound logical if the mount was an issue if the second RTS2 did not zero as soon as I put it on the mount. The mount is a Cheely mount that came with the CK Arms. I guess I could go with getting a blank mount and then drilling the holes exact but if I have to RMA the RTS2 again, I may run into the issue where the adjustment is different for each RTS2. Has anyone run into this before with a replacement RTS2? I'm also wondering if putting a shim would be an option and who makes one. I was looking at the DPP thread and it seems JP makes a shim for the J-Point that also seems to work with the DPP. I'm not sure if that would work for the RTS2 though. My last thought is to ditch the RTS2 entirely and go with a different dot which is frustrating as this is an expensive solution.

You should use a trigger gauge to help you. I used this guide to set my pull weight. You can adjust it a little bit at a time to get it lower or higher. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull

I have a similar issue this weekend with a RMA sight. I just got it back as the previous unit would cut out randomly. I mounted it back on and it was very low at 20 yards. I backed the screw out but I am not certain I backed it out 1-1/2 turns. I moved up as I could not see any hits at 20 yards. At about 10 yards, I was 3" low and had no more elevation. If I ran out of elevation and the lock screw was not all the way out, do I adjust the elevation screw all the way the other way? Would that potentially give me more elevation?

Interesting, I guess I need to up the powder by .3 gr. I was using 3.4 gr of N320 on a 115 gr Ibejihead bullet in my 2011 and it would not cycle reliably. I didn't want to adjust the powder measure as it makes minor with a 145 gr bullet. I can also try to drop the recoil spring down to 7 lbs from the 8 lbs that I use for USPSA to see if that runs.

You should add a chrono to your test. It would be interesting to know if the rounds you are using have enough energy to cycle the slide for a brand new gun. If the slide is not cycling properly due to weak loads, the next round may not be picked up. My CK Open gun came very tight to the point that you could not pull the slide back with the hammer down. I had many failure to feed during the break in process. Now that it is broken in, it runs with no issues.

The change in the bell from .425 to .42 shouldn't cause any scraping. My concern is more the part that did not get belled which is lower in the case. I'm curious if anyone else experienced this issue with brass cases. I'm going to contact the person I purchased the brass from to see if they would be willing to share how they processed the brass and if there was any material that may have gone on the inside of the brass case. Worst case scenario is that I wet tumble these cases again with stainless media to see if that helps. It's a shame as these cases are really shiny. The alternate is to give up on these shiny brass and use the other brass I purchased. That would suck to just have 5k of this brass and not be able to use it.

That's the funny part. The headstamps are all mixed. Just sampling a few and I found Federal, Win, Blazer, and Herters. The only commonality is that the shiny ones all came from one source.

Here's the video: At the 40 second mark is when you see the moly start scraping off. One other thing to note is this is actually brass I purchased that was cleaned and polished. They are so shiny that they look brand new. I usually just wet tumble what brass I collect from the range but it does not get this shiny and I've run out of clean brass so I'm going thru what I purchased. I found some other brass I purchased from another supplier. I loaded it and it did not scrape the coating. I'm wondering if there is some coating on the inside of the brass that I'm using that is reducing the internal case volume. A quick measurement with my calipers show the internal diameter to be around .399 while the shiny brass is around .3965. Would that cause the issue?

I've tried the more bell route. I've increased the bell to the point where I have to crank down on the crimp die so that the case will fall into the case gauge. This also resulted in the brass sticking to the Mr. Bullet Feeder expander and lots of force to remove it. When it gets to the bullet dropper, it is activating more than one bullet to fall and possibly causing damage to the dropper. When the case goes into the Redding CSD, the brass is clearly scraping on the sides of the die and very tough on the CSD as well as the brass. The results are the same with the moly coating scraped off. I removed the Redding CSD and put it on a single stage press. I slowly inserted the case with the bullet in. The bell of the case actually starts getting reduced before the bullet is seated. As I raise the ram to the point that bullet is starting to seat is when the moly started scraping off. Given that the bell is being removed before the bullet is seated, I'm not sure if more bell is going to help. I did pull one of the bullets out and the coating is definitely being scraped off the sides. I'll get a video up shortly of the seating process.

I'm still playing around with the Redding CSD. I took it apart. There is some moly coating on the inside as well as the steam. I cleaned it all out and re-assembled. It seems the moly coating is scraping off when the seating stem meets resistance as I ran it without the top of the die to see if anything is binding. What little contact the die body has with the brass is not touching the bullet in anyway. I can try backing out the Redding CSD but the it does not really do any crimping. It requires a separate crimp die in order for the bullet to case gauge.

Thanks, this was the video I used to set up the die. There really was no other good videos out there. I went back to set the bell as per the video. The measured bell after going thru the Redding Seating die is not quite concentric with it varying between .42 all the way up to .423. The bell is flared to a concentric .425. The brass barely scrapes along the inside of the seating die. I also removed the U-die and set up the standard Lee sizing die. I tried to load a bullet after setting this and the result is the same with the scraping of the moly coating. This is almost frustrating enough to go back to the Lee seating die.

I reset the flaring as well as the crimp die and took some pictures. I also measured the diameter of the bullets to ensure they are the right width. The first picture shows the bullet sits well with the current flare. After seating, you can see the moly coating scraped off. In the second picture, you do not see as much of the coating scraped off on the other side although it is still scraping. I can flare it out the brass a bit more to reduce the scraping. When seating the bullet, you can definitely hear the scraping sound as the bullet is being seated.

I've recently switched to a Redding Competition Bullet Seating Die from a Lee Bullet Seating Die. I'm loading on a Dillon XL 650 with the following dies: 1-Lee U-Die 2-Dillon Powder Die w/ Mr Bullet Feeder Powder Funnel 3-Mr Bullet Feeder Dropper 4-Redding Competition Seating Die 5-Lee Factory Crimp Die I'm using Ibejihead 180 gr 40 S&W in the RNFP profile. The brass are range pickup brass. It seems like I was getting a decent amount of failures out of every batch when I was using the Lee Bullet Seating Die so I figured I would switch to the Redding Seating Die to see if that would fix it. With the Redding Bullet Seating Die, the moly coating is getting scraped off every bullet I seat. I increased the case mouth flaring but it seems to still be scraping the coating off. On top of it, it is causing issues with the Mr. Bullet Feeder Dropper as it is dropping two bullets instead of one every so often. Increasing the flaring seems to have also caused the rounds to not case gauge without increasing the crimp on the Lee FCD. The press is also very hard to operate while trying to separate the brass from the powder funnel so I do not think increasing the flaring anymore will help. At this point, I think increasing the flaring anymore will causing damage to the brass as well as the dies so I backed it off. What I noticed at a certain point is the moly coating is only scraping off on one side regardless of how much I flare it. I'm curious as to whether the bullet stem of the Redding bullet seating die is contacting the bullet incorrectly and is pushing bullet in at an angle causing the scraping. I'm tempted to switch back to the Lee Seating Die as scraping the moly coating and lead off each complete bullet is a big PITA. The issue why I was getting so many rejects before was more due to Glock bulged bullets. The U-die helped but did not solve the bulge problem. I did get the Redding G-RX push thru die and that seems to have solved the problem. I think the U-die may not be of much use anymore with the G-RX die and I may just switch back to a regular Lee sizing die to put less stress on the brass. Now, I know why people go with a Case Pro. I'd like to keep the Redding Competition Seating Die and try to get it to work as it's an expensive die but I'm just thinking the bullet seating stem isn't working with the bullet profile. Any guidance on this would be much appreciated.

The best bet is to partner up with someone who has some equipment or has all the equipment. I practice with a buddy. He usually brings all the target stands and other equipment. I usually bring stands as well but they usually stay in the box. The stands I got are from GT Targets which fold.

I like this idea. It looks like the power adaptor is sold out. Would something like this work? Probably a bit excessive as you only need two plugs instead of 4 but it is a combo splitter and power supply. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019LV4NNI?psc=1

I'm curious about this too. I have a KKM barrel in .355. I get ok accuracy with 145g bullets but I think my 2011 in 40 is more accurate. The NM 9mm KKM barrels are known for their 1-32 twist accuracy using 115g bullets. I'll have to check the twist on mine but it seems the standard twist is 1-16 or 1-18 from their website. I read heavier grain bullets are not as accurate and hence loading lighter grain bullets is better for accuracy. I'll try loading lighter bullets to see if this changes anything.

For charge checking, most battery powered digital scales are sufficient. I had a Hornady that I used for a while but it started walking all over the place. I then replaced it with a Gemini 20 that I picked up on Amazon that is pretty solid. It seems the Frankford Arsenal digital scale is another popular option on the forum. I recently started loading rifle rounds and found that the battery powered digital scales would turn off as I'm trying to fine tune the powder measurement or constantly replacing batteries. I wanted a plug in unit to solve the issues and went with the GemPro 250 after reading numerous reviews here. It was either the Dillon or the GemPro.

It doesn't even look like there are many authorized dealers or distributors. Quick search on the internet shows that Steve from Triad Tactical will warranty and repair it here for you instead which is pretty cool. Gel cups are definitely a must. I love mine and it's so comfortable compared to my old Impact Sport. I got mine from DSG Arms. They have the green camo with gel cups on sale for $224 plus $5 shipping. You will need to register and login to see the price.

The Alpha X holster's ability to easily adjust the holster is a plus. It was really easy to setup exactly like my old Race Master but once it's set, you don't really need to adjust it that often. The ability to take it off the belt is also nice but I don't really remove it either. For me, the biggest plus over the original Race Master was the thick rectangular hanger was no digging into my thigh anymore. I was going to upgrade to the Racer hanger but this just made more sense.

The ELS belt has a width of 1.75" on mine. The DAA stuff is meant for 1.5" width belt. You can make it work but a belt that is 1.5" width would make it easier to work with the DAA gear..

We used a finish reamer to make sure the chamber could hold a 40 case on a Schuemann barrel. The Schuemann barrel is pretty tough and dulled the reamer. I'll have to get the reamer sharpened. KKM barrels were much easier to ream. Once the chamber is cut, you may need a throat reamer to accept longer rounds depending on the finish reamer. Manson and PTG reamers will require a separate throat reamer. I spoke with Kevin from KKM and he said there is another reamer manufacturer that makes their chamber reamers to accept longer loaded rounds so you do not need to do the extra step of throat reaming. The better way to do this is probably to use a rough reamer followed by a finish reamer so that the finish reamer does not get dull so quickly. Its cheaper to just have someone else do it unless you plan on doing a lot of barrels.

I had this issue with my brand new CK Arms gun slide locking back. The gun was extremely tight and I was actually not pulling the slide back far enough to engage the slide stop. It's easier to engage now after breaking it in. It doesn't sound like it's a new gun but it may also have never been fired much either.

You'll have to go thru this thread.