bthoefer

I don't see one listed for the shadow only the SP-01. The shadow dovetail is different.

All you did was change the angle of the hammer/sear interaction by removing more material. And in the process, probably increased pretravel, which is the opposite of what a t3 is designed for. The PROPER fix, is to file the hooks on the hammer.But clearly you know more than me. Says the guy disagreeing with the designer / manufacturer of the parts your installing. Well, let's clarify; I'm not disagreeing with David. What he told the other gentleman was the 'easiest' fix, not likely to result in irreversible hammer damage. Edit: Let's also clarify design, etc. (since you brought it up). CGW sources hammers from CZC. The CZC comp hammer was not designed to work with a T3 without modification (for the most part, every gun is different). Pretty much every T3 I've fit with a comp hammer, needed some hammer hook fitting. I wasn't trying to be a douche, but I told him the CORRECT modification to remedy his problem. Understandable, because like I said above, David told him the EASIEST fix for a DIY'er, least likely to not result in hammer damage. I've spoken to David about the T3 drop-in-ability and profiles. So don't think I'm trying to throw shade his way, as we've talked numerous times about it. So if you took my comment to heart, understand that I was trying to help you fix a HAMMER issue, not a T3 issue. Thanks, This was a much more informative and less douchey explanation.

All you did was change the angle of the hammer/sear interaction by removing more material. And in the process, probably increased pretravel, which is the opposite of what a t3 is designed for. The PROPER fix, is to file the hooks on the hammer. But clearly you know more than me. Says the guy disagreeing with the designer / manufacturer of the parts your installing.

This is not as important on a non fpb gun. The only reset on a non fpb gun is the sear, so there is no potential for the timing issue this fixes. Making sure the spring rides in the groves in the bottom of the trigger bar is still good practice.

I've made weight with springer base pads and Speed shooters long tungsten guide rod.

Agreed, a 13lb hammer spring is not going to pierce a primer.

Not on a CZ. I have seen brand new guns pierce primers though.

I agree with setting the protrusion to the same depth as a shadow. A firing pin can pierce a primer without being sharp or broken if the hammer spring and firing pin combo are too strong/ heavy. That is why CGW States not to use their extended firing pin with the stock hammer spring (or anything heavier than 15 lb IIRC).

Yes. Make sure you are hitting it on the side with less flare. It may not always be the same side. After that, use a big hammer and don't be gentle. Hit it hard, just like the others have said.

I've used a 22 caliber chamber hone to polish the firing pin channel in my CZs, it would probably work well with the Tanfo also.

What recoil springs are everyone running with these? I noticed in their fitting video that apex recommend the stock recoil spring. Is anyone running this barrel with either a 13 or 15 lb spring?

Boss hanger with bladetech holster seems to be the hot setup.

The SP-01 beavertail is not great. It's too short and too narrow, better than nothing though.

Tell Stuart if he decides to make a competition or tactical rear with a wider notch I'll take 4 (2 standard SP-01 and 2 Shadow). There is no one making a rear with wider rear notch than .125. I'd love a .135 or .140 wide rear notch. You could always have the rear dovetail opened up to fit a Novak and then use a 10-8 or Sevigny (I think Sevigny makes a novak) rear.

Greatest answer to an oil question ever.

Rumor issad that it is a a Novak rear dovetail. Without machining the SP-01 dovetail it won't fit.

Make sure the trigger bar spring is pushing up on the trigger bar. If the screw holding it in place comes loose the spring won't be pushing the trigger bar up against the sear or disconnector.

They all currently use a single grip screw. It's dumb because it lets the grips move slightly if you put pressure at the top or bottom of them even with the best fitted grips. This is why a lot of grips work loose if you don't loctite the screws. Using 2 screws; similar to on a 1911, would fix this. The single screw works but could be much better.

I want to know 3 things. 1. cost 2. release date 3. when they expect these to be approved for USPSA production division.

It seems like a shame noone told Taran that almost everyone ditches the factory 18 round mags for either 16 or 17 round mecgar mags.

This has been gone over before, the machining for the accu bushing is what makes the slide no longer legal for production if it is not originally purchased that way. The only machining allowed is to install sights. This is why you can not send a shadow slide in and have a bushing added.

I think it is due to the variance in lock up from gun to gun. Guns with tighter lock up work with lighter springs, guns with looser lock up need heavier springs.

Try the apex striker spring. The 13lb recoil spring is right on the edge of reliability. The lighter striker spring helps the slide go into battery. I never had any light strikes with the apex striker spring. The only issues I saw was that as a 13lb spring wears out (3,000 -5,000 rounds) it can get light enough to let the striker push the slide out of battery as you pull the trigger. This can result in pulling the trigger, getting a click, but NO primer strike. Short version is 15lb is a safe recoil spring. Not all guns will run reliably with a 13lb.

The spring can / will still wear out eventually and need to be replaced. If anything the spring should last longer after getting it set up correctly since it is exerting less force on the trigger bar.

This is correct, the trigger bar rises as it moves forward. It doesn't move parallel to the bore. Decreasing the upward pressure means the trigger bar had to come forward far enough to also reset the fpb lifter. Not trying to be obstinate....really wanting to understand the actual movement and interaction of these parts during this process. I suspect this situation occurs from having installed the Comp Hammer which I believe alters the rotational position of the sear during the cocked position in SA compared to the stock hammer. I make this assumption because of the safety no longer working because of the interference of the top sear arm....so this forward rotation would position the bottom sear arm further back from its original cocked position causing it to be encountered first (false reset) by the trigger bar during the forward motion of the reset process . Are there any unintended consequences of reducing the trigger bar spring pressure? I asked David at CGW if there were any issues with doing this. He said no and it can smooth out the trigger pull a little because the spring isn't pushing against the trigger bar as hard. I've got 25,000 rounds on one gun with no problems with it. 2,000 on another with no issues again. Curious minds want to know :-) I am also surprised that this condition was mentioned in 2014 by you and not brought up again until Jan 2016. Do you know if changing to a shorter reset disco eliminated this condition of the false reset? Fitting a short reset disconnector will not change this. In fact if you hand fit a disconnector, you will see this condition as you test. The sear will reset before you remove enough material to get the fpb to reset.