bthoefer

Nice, I thought I was going to have to correct you on that. I run the rami slide stop in both my guns, and know 2 other guys who run them also on either sp-01 or sp-01 shadows. The rami slide stop is nice for getting out of the way of your left hand, but does not auto forward like the standard sp-01 slide stop did.

Well I broke down and ordered a set of the thick DAA grips. We'll see how they work out.

Grip tape feels more locked in to me, but the diamondbacks are grippy. There is a definite difference in how they feel.

I've handled those on a tanfo, and the open design did nothing for me.

Has anyone tried both, how do they compare? I have the VZs on my SP-01s and am thinking of trying the thick double alphas to get a little more space for my left hand. I've handled the thin double alphas, but haven't been able to try a set of the thick grips.

Try grip tape first. I found the key to keeping it in place is in the prep. Clean the grip with a good gun cleaner, then once that is completely dry (hit it with a hair dryer to make sure) go back over the grip with rubbing alcohol and let that dry. Next put on the grip tape and press it firmly down, get the hair dryer and heat up the grip tape and press it down again. I prefer grip tape because it is replaceable as it wears down.

I loaned a friend one of my SP-01s. It is set up with all of the Cajun Gun Works parts. The gun has around 10,000 rounds through it without an issue. It has the CGW extended firing pin and an 11.5 lb hammer spring. I have shot thousands of rounds of blazer brass (factory CCI), Magtech, Aguila, and other assorted factory ammo and never a light strike. He is having light strikes with CCI primers. I haven't checked the gun out to see what is going on. He said that the light strikes are in single action and fire when struck a second time. He also said that the primer strikes are a little bit lighter than those from another friends shadow. The only change made to the gun is the mag release has been reversed since he is left handed. I'm thinking his primers need to be seated a little deeper. Do any of you guys have and ideas of what to look at in the gun to double check? I'm thinking I'll check the firing pin and firing pin block to make sure they are not rubbing.

This. I have worked on decocker models, and the sear cage was either designed by the devil or a practical joke by engineers at CZ. It's a major pain in the balls to put back together.

There are a few more rear sight options for the rear sight dovetail on the shadow. The firing pin is easier to change / replace on the shadows. The fpb guns take a touch more work to get the trigger to the same level but not by much, just polishing of the fpb.

I keep hearing good things about Weapon Shield.

Blazer brass 124 grain made 140 pf out of my cz. PMC bronze 124 grain made 130 pf from my M&P pro. Federal American eagle 147 grain made 140 pf from the M&P.

Around here new shooters almost always start in limited. They shoot whatever gun and gear they have with full mags and learn their way around USPSA.

I've had a similar issue with running too light a recoil spring. The jolt from seating the mag was enough to knock the slide slightly out of battery. The sear would release, but the striker didn't reach the primer. No impact on the primer but the trigger broke when the sear released. You say it's a new recoil spring, is it factory or what weight ? If it's light try a 15lb spring (or heavier) and see if it still has the same problem.

I have a mag pouch for single stack that I can't mount on the belt because I'm out of real estate.

This. Stop thinking about it and just do it.

I don't think the auto forwarding is a problem. My CZs are the only gun I've competed with that do it. My thumb is long enough to reach the slide stop so it doesn't matter to me. I would suspect the people who have had issues are riding the slide stop with their strong hand thumb also and putting enough pressure on it to release the slide before the mag is fully seated. I've had that happen to me while shooting M&Ps.

I think this is one of the advantages of hammer fired guns. All of the fire control group is in the frame. Striker fired guns split them between the frame and slide. My SP-01 double action trigger is lighter than a stock glock trigger.

https://goo.gl/photos/Sw7wrUdDVwCGxDuq6 Here's my pair of SP-01s. They are both full of CGW parts.

Here's my pair of SP-01s. Both are full of CGW parts.

Thanks Atlas , going to take a long look at that thread . Appreciate it ! This thread is what I used doing the work on my gun. Atlas laid it all out. Follow that thread, with the parts I listed an you will be golden.

Cajun Gun Works 10040, CZC race hammer and CGW sear 11.5# hammer spring TR-PIN (floating trigger pin) RP-TRS (reduced power trigger return spring) 85C trigger 1485-T2 disconnector (short reset disconnector) Recoil springs 11lb Extended firing pin (included in SRS-2) This is what's in my SP-01. Basically call David at Cajun gun works and ask what he would recommend. With polishing the above setup is 5lb 4oz Double action, 2lb 7oz single action. Sets off CCI primers 100%.

How much you looking to get out of the belt? I don't have one to sell, I just wanted to say it isn't hard to find a belt that will fit him. Mine is a little under 5 years old and still going strong. You can get a 32 here. http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=daa%2Dbelt&404;http://www.benstoegerproshop.com:80/Double-Alpha-DAA-Competition-Double-Belt-1-1-2-p/daa-belt.htm=

I've got a 32 inch waist and use a 34 Double alpha belt. He should be fine with a 32 and they are easy to find.

Use red loctite on the sight in the dovetail. Blue on the set screw, but use red loctite on the sight to dovetail fit.

I have had the same issue once on my sp-01. My strong hand thumb touches the slide stop and I put pressure on it just a fraction too soon. The slide went forward before the mag was seated and didn't pick up the round.