bthoefer

No. Polymerization is just a fancy way of saying that the oils solidify. There is almost zero corrosion protection. If you are worried about protecting the finish I'd personally recommend Lucas Extreme Duty gun oil. When I switched to it I stopped having issues with rust spots on the hammer of my practice gun.

Don't forget that if you get any petroleum based lube on the gun it will cause polymerization (aka solidify) frog lube.

I'm going to try this one more time, mainly because I hate being accused of saying something I did not. The reset is dictated by the interface of the sear/trigger bar/and firing pin block. This determines how far forward the trigger has to move to reset. The disconnector stops the forward movement of the trigger bar but does not determine where the trigger resets. The trigger return spring pulls the trigger bar forward while the trigger bar spring provides upward tension to move the trigger bar upwards once it has moved far enough forward to clear the foot of the sear and firing pin block lifter arm. In a gun with a firing pin block; If the trigger bar spring is not adjusted properly and there is not enough tension on the right side of the trigger bar, then the left side of the trigger bar can move up and reset in front of the sear before the right side of the trigger bar has moved up enough to reengage the firing pin block lifter. This feels softer than the normal single action reset. If you pull the trigger from this position the hammer will fall but the firing pin is still blocked since the lifter was not engaged by the trigger bar. Increasing the tension on the right side of the trigger bar spring ensures that the firing pin block lifter and sear engage the trigger bar at the same time during reset.

That might be what you heard, but that's not what I said. No point trying to correct you any more. Enjoy your guns that won't fire from reset. If you want to understand what I've explained try giving David at Cajun Gun Works a call and ask him about fixing a "false reset", which is what the adjustment the original poster asked about addresses.

Nice try. You haven't addressed what I've said in either of your responses. You are hung up thinking about the end of the trigger pull. I'm talking about the point of reset.

Nice try. You haven't addressed what I've said in either of your responses. You are hung up thinking about the end of the trigger pull. I'm talking about the point of reset.

That is true with a shadow or other gun without a firing pin block. If the tension is not correct the trigger bar can pick up the sear before picking up the firing pin block. If you let the trigger bar continue forward it will pick up the firing pin block also so this only becomes an issue when shooting from reset or with a tightly fit disconnector that isn't letting the trigger bar come far enough forward to fully reset. It's not about having enough pressure to hold the trigger bar up while the trigger is pulled as you describe, it's about it resetting correctly.

Nope. No different than ejecting and reinserting the same mag. Since the coupled mag was already in the gun, a separate mag would be needed for it to be additional ammo.

If a coupler makes the 2 mags a single unit and therefore one mag, then the penalty for using one on a course of fire with a mandatory reload is a per shot procedural since a fresh mag was not inserted.

I went from a similar M&P to a CZ. I wanted a new gun to play with and wanted to shoot something more similar to the way my 1911 felt (but something production division legal).

Hammer spring weight has more influence on Double Action pull weight than Single action so there is no reason to push the limits with light springs. Stay with a 13 lb hammer spring or heavier and you should be good to go.

I fix guns for a living and froglube causes more malfunctions than all other lubes combined. Stay away.

I was surprised how many SP-01 limited guns I saw at GA State.

This is correct. The production legal hammer that CGW sells IS the CZC Competition hammer.

Slide off. Grips off. You need to be able to see through the frame under the grips so you can see the spring position under the trigger bar. Take a tool (I use a pick) to push the spring out of the grooves towards the center of the mag well. Bend it up or down from there to adjust the vertical tension. Bend it in or out so that when you push them back under the trigger bar they center in the grooves in the trigger bar. This is important on a gun with a firing pin block but less important on a shadow.

If the spring is not adjusted correctly it can cause a false reset. This happens when the trigger bar picks up the sear before it picks up the firing pin block. When this happens the hammer will fall, but the firing pin is still blocked by the firing pin block. This causes the firing pin and block to slam against each other and can damage both parts.

I'll probably go ahead and pick one up for my practice gun. With dry fire daily I break the normal TRS every 5000 rounds.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/75321/ Has anyone tried this yet? What did you think?

I run an 11.5 hammer spring and it's 100 percent with CCI.

Dawson measures from the top of the slide to the top of the sight. CZ measures the total sight height (bottom of the dovetail to top of the sight).

My practice gun has roughly 35,000 rounds through it, plus daily dry fire and I recently had to readjust the trigger bar spring. The spring was weak enough that the disconnector would slip off the trigger bar occasionally in DA before the hammer was all the way back. If I pulled the trigger back 90% and then let pressure off the disconnector would slip off the trigger bar and the hammer would fall. It was an easy adjustment to fix. I'll probably replace it the next time I detail strip that gun. The top of the spring where it rubs on the trigger bar was visibly worn. On this gun I have run things to the point of failure, I like to know where that point is so I can keep my match guns well within that margin. It's kinda surprising how well most things hold up. I've gone through 4 trigger return springs, one slide stop, and 4 recoil springs.

I've emailed DNROI twice with this question and I emailed Foley about it last night. He responded that if hands are off the gun it is a DQ but didn't have an answer for the rest of the question.

10.5.11 HOLSTERING a loaded handgun in any of the following conditions. A single action self loading pistol with the safety not applied. Notice it says holstering, not holstered. If you start the gun into the holster with the safety off you are holstering the gun and can be DQd before you finish and remove your hand from the pistol. It happened at A6 2013

10.5.11 HOLSTERING a loaded handgun in any of the following conditions. A single action self loading pistol with the safety not applied. Notice it says holstering, not holstered. If you start the gun into the holster with the safety off you are holstering the gun and can be DQd before you finish and remove your hand from the pistol. It happened at A6 2013.

Argue all you want, you're still getting DQd.