GunslingerDK

Does anyone have experience loading high quantities of .308/7.62 on an Evolution/Revolution? Specifically looking for info on real world output, feeding issues, priming issues, bullet toppling etc.

I too, have been at a loss these past few days over the exact same thing. At first I found out that the end mil was loose inside the trimmer. Okay, so I got that tight. Then as you I had to realize that the lock nut can only go on the underside of the toolhead, not enough threading on the upper side. I find the whole thing quite difficult to adjust just right. There is as good as no instructions anywhere to be found. Some people mention problems with swarf. Has this been resolved or is there simply no way around the boring bar?

Sorry for necroing a 2 year old thread! Do you have a picture of that kydex disc you made??

But I don't know (and no one has been able to tell me) if the gun is long enough with the large back strap installed.

I already did. They measured it alright, and it's right on the line. They could not tell me if it was measured without a backstrap, or with one. There is a specific way the government want it measured (it sounds stupid, I know) usually we don't follow this very accurate way of measuring, but since the gun is so close, we need to this time. That is was I seek help to do

I am looking for owners of this pistol. My company is the Danish importer and distributor for Ruger firearms. We believe this pistol would be a huge competitor to Glock, M&P and the like. Danish gun laws dictate a minimum overall length on handguns to be 8,27". Ruger puts the overall length of the pistol to be 8,31". That is very close. Close enough that it could easily be measured wrong. The real problem here is that the gun comes with 3 different sized back straps, and if it needs the large one to be long enough, the end user can simply swap it for the short one making the gun illegal. IF I order a bunch of these pistols and they turn out to be too short, I am forced to install a shroud, which is ugly, stupid and expensive considering the MSRP on this pistol. I am looking for a kind soul willing to help a fellow Ruger enthusiast out, by removing the backstrap and measuring the pistol as per the instructions I will provide Thank you, and happy pew-pew'ing to you all.

Ammoload only. I hear from a lot of people in the industry that the camdex machines are poorly constructed, meaning the parts are not within spec and sometimes complete machines have to go to an engineer shop to get fixed. On the other hand I also know a few who run Camdex machines and are quite happy. I just don't want to take the chance. I do not hear of the same problems with the ammoload.

I work for a firearms distributor in Europe. We also produce ammunition for hansguns. We use Dillon 1050's on Mark7 autodrives. I have a setup at home as well. I have probably loaded 250k for personal use the past 7 years, and well over 2 million commercially including brass processing. One thing I can promise you: the 1050's will make you pull hair out of your head! There are so many issues and quirks with these machines I wouldn't know where to begin. You REALLY need to know what you are doing if you want them to run smoothly. If I was starting out today I would not consider 1050's! If I had the money I would opt for an Ammoload, otherwise I would go for the Mark7 Evo2. We don't get the Revolution in Europe. The Evo2 is practically the same just with the motor mounted differently. I know a guy here who has 2 Evo2 machines. They never have any hiccups and run smoothly all day long. What's this lawsuit by Mark7? I tried googling but could not find any.

I usually do use a qtip to clean both the inner primer tube on the machine as well as the tube of the primer filler. I fixed the problem by putting a small piece of electrical tape on the jaws of the tip. My thought was that if I could mechanically prevent the primer from getting stuck between the jaws the problem would be solved. Of course the underlying issue is that sometimes primer no.2 is dragged forward with the slide. Could be they are a little out of spec, I don't know. Now the tape prevents it from being stuck into the tip. I don't know if Dillon makes the tips in-house or they are sourced from elsewhere. If the composition of the plastic used has changed making the material softer, this would most likely be the result.

Thank you :). What annoys me the most is, that the 5 years I have had the machine, a worn tip used to be the only reason for this problem. Now I can change the tip, and load 10 rounds then it happens...

Yes. I have load anything other than stuff that uses small primers.

Nothing that I hadn't tried many times.

I am about to loose my mind. I have been having this problem lately. It is a known problem, but usually a sign that the blue tip simply needs changing. I am having the problem constantly even with new tips. I can hardly load 20 rounds between occurrences. When removing the delrin triangle holding the brass in place, I can clearly see what is happening. The moment the primer slide starts moving, no 2 primer in the tube moves forward with the slide and then being caught between the jaws of the blue tip, preventing new primers from being fed. I've been tinkering with this sh*t for days. I have the following parts on hand: 2 complete primer assemblies 3 different primer slides: 1 with brass roller, 1 with a rubber bushing and one without anything. A variety of blue tips. I have made sure they are perfect without dings, mold flashes etc. I have tried every conceivable combination of the parts above to no avail. I have tried the usual fixes as per earlier threads: Primer slide is polished Edge of hole in slide is polished to facilitate easier entry of the primer into the slide. primer tube retaining nut is not tight Machine clean (of course) Besides this I have tried: Putting shims on the primer slide stop on either sides to manipulate the final position of the slide Putting shims under the entire assembly to increase the distance from the blue tip to the slide I have changed every part and spring in that area of the machine Using the inner primer tube (with the brass tip) from my 650. I bended the actuating arm 3 times within 1000 rounds so I gave up on that I simply cannot understand what is causing this problem. I have loaded over 250.000 rounds on this machine and have been able to solve most of the problems I have encountered during the years. Many of which I found solutions for on this board. The machine is run by a Mark 7 and I am using a FFB plate, not that any of that matters really. I am using Winchester primers. Any suggestions?

I bought a large shipment of brass from them about a year ago. I am out and am looking for more. I was surprised to learn their phone is disconnected, the homepage is down and my emails bounce back. Did they close the business? If anybody knows anything I will appreciate the info. Thanks.

Is that next on the list of sensors?? That would be a great addition....