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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Heshin

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Battle Ground, WA
  • Real Name
    Tim Hay

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  1. Had a great time at my first SMM3G, squad 2 was fantastic! A big thanks to all of the sponsors and especially the RO's and staff who made the match possible! Already looking forward to next year! Tim
  2. For my loads it worked out to 45yd zero, mainly to get the top of center dot at 100yds and 2nd dot at 300yds. Again this is for my 55 and 69 loads. Bottom of center dot ends up being 225.
  3. The Benelli video is a great video Kurt. Heaman, I like the 3GunNation video, I just wish it snapped to some full speed action at some point to showcase the speed that this sport runs at times.
  4. Not sure where to post this, but I always get asked "what is 3 gun" when people find out that's what I do for fun and I'm looking for a great 3 Gun trailer so to speak that highlights what our sport is all about that I can show them right from my phone. I have ran across a few like the Noveske Shooting Teams 3 Gun Hero Trailer and this one by SuperSetCA, but would like to see what you guys use when this question is brought up.
  5. Welcome to Ironman! Seriously though, I am amazed at how many dislike the shotgun. I guess it is my bird hunting background that gets me excited about shotgun heavy stages and even looking for an all shotgun match to try. I have only shot USPSA and 3 Gun. 2 Gun I would try but I'm guessing that for me it would be a distant second to 3 gun.
  6. Wont work on my iPhone either, the page just gets longer, no click through. This will make it tough since its all I'll have at the sign up time...
  7. Try disassembling the gun, removing the stock then installing your bolt and carrier without the handle to see how smoothly it slides back and forth. May have a spot hanging up?
  8. I'm not familiar with the new single piston, mine came with the two, but that was over a year ago. Here is a list of "to do's" taken from another thread. I did all of these along with locking the bolt back for a minimum of 5 days along with every time after I shot it for a months or, to me this helped out the most. Mine runs pretty consistantly. RUSHARP2 recently asked me to share with him all of the mods I have done to my SLP. I had to scratch my head on this one, but I think I got it done. I wanted to post it here to be helpful to anyone else who might need it. These are a series of things that have been shared with me by folks such as Tod Litt, Fred Quarles and others. I have also stolen ideas from rifle shooters and created a few polishing mods of my own. Enjoy! "The long and the short of it is that once you modify one part of the shotgun it typically throws another a bit off balance so you have to make minor modifications to several other parts to bring it back in check. The good news is, it is not hard to do. Here is a list of things I have done to mine and additional notes for each. Let me know if you would like me to send you any photos. 1. Weld up the "thumb destroying" lifter. (This is what Shumaker did such a good job of for me! He not only welded it up, he also milled the "Benelli" slot in it and built up the starboard side to improve reliability.)(NOTE: this tends to cause reliability issues with shells failing to feed by hanging up on the extractor slot at 3 o'clock on the chamber.) 2. Polished the Chamber and Extractor Slot from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. (This was done to prevent the failure to feed issue caused by the modification to the lifter. I did this with my finger, some emory cloth and steel wool.) 3. I opened up the loading port with HANDTOOLS! (I refuse to use the Dremel tool because of my own habit of going too fast.) 4. I cut back the hand guard so it would not interfere with reloads or the loading port I just opened. 5. Added the Nordic Comp charging handle 6. Added the Nordic Comp Benelli bolt release oversized button 7. Soft sided shot shell carriers for the port side (9 shell) and the 2 shell slide lock carrier for the starboard side. (both are hook and look removable.) 8. Cut the tubular magazine spring. (This makes reloads softer. There should be a minimum of 12" of spring hanging out of the front (Fore not aft) end of the magazine tube after you cut it. Many say to buy an extra spring and keep it with you just incase after making this mod.) 9. Polish the inside of the tubular magazine. (Wrap a 12ga brass brush in steel wool, place it on a cleaning rod and chuck it up in a high speed drill. Run it up and down the tube at high rpm to polish the heck out of it!) 10. Polish the magazine spring and shell follower. (This is done with steel wool as well. I plan on buying a Nordic Comp follower, but have not gotten it done yet.) 11. Polish the Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Tube: (Remove the stock and disassemble the recoil tube and spring. Clean all oil residue off. Chuck the spring up in a 1/2" drill and run it at high rpm while running steel wool up and down the length of the spring. Polish the inside of the recoil tube using the same procedure mentioned above for polishing the tubular magazine, but use a .45 acp brush/20ga brush. After polishing them both and wiping clean, slather the spring and inside of tube in an engine reassembly lube of your choice. This makes the recoil operation sing!) 12. I have also added extended choke tubes and run the I/C and Light Mod for most everything. 13. Run the light gas piston for all shot and try to run reduced recoil slugs. (FN says this keeps everything under 1000/1100fps and you can leave the light piston in all of the time.) 14. Cleaning/Maintenance: (A) Buy a full bottle of Hoppes No. 9 and pour it in a small glass. Drop your gas piston in it and let is soak while you clean the rest of the shotgun. Drop it in first and then brush the piston up after cleaning everything else. The carbon brushes right off with a plastic bristle cleaning brush/toothbrush. (B Keep all oil off of the outside of the recoil tube! Clean it with dry steel wool only. The built up carbon creates an amazing lube! Wrap steel wool around the tube and with long even strokes clean the tube until the carbon is gone. The brass ring is a bit of a challenge, but can be done. Clean the barrel ring with steel wool the same way. C) Spray Rem Oil or another light oil on the magazine tube spring before inserting. The follower can be sprayed as well. D) I lube the moving part of the gun and all of my competition guns with a 5w Castrol Synthetic oil. It stays with the gun and does not go away, but this is a mess if you use too much!) That is everything that I have learned from so many others and my SLP DOES NOT STOP! If I can ever be of any assistance, please let me know." Cheers, Kyle Kyle McGregor Quote MultiQuote
  9. I held one of these the other day and the butt felt really short, do they come with an extension in the box?
  10. I was also contemplating trying the 24" vent rib barrel on my SLP vs buying a new M2, since you have tried all what's your take on transition from stock SLP through the barrel swap onto the M2?
  11. Im fighting this same dilemma right now. Planning on switching from an SLP to M2 and can't decide on a 24" or 26". I know I will run a tube at least as long as the 24" so it seems to make sense to have the 24" barrel, but not sure if the 26" would be a hinderance or not. Would love to see more input.
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