whistlepig

Don't assume that it is polish residue..... the sticking of powder inside a case probably has more to do with friction than anything.... a flake powder with lots of surface area and relativly low mass might "stick" when a piece of stick powder, with low surface area and more mass, will not...... I'm not sure but static electricity may play a role as well. The flake powders are notorious for sticking to whatever. if it is in the case, fire away, it will all get burned up. If you are using a polish meant for the reloading industry, I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Remind her that the press has never called her a bad name..........

Numrich gun parts..... They use diff ones pre and post 1988...... both show in stock. The post 1988 is like 6 bucks, the older one is 26 bucks www.gunpartscorp.com. pm attempted.

+1 on the above posts... The idea of "Battlefield Zero" has some merit for the zero to be useful over a wide range, but for the game I say that you want to have a more precise setup. You said a 200 yard match so Im guessing that 200 is the max and you will address targets in between as well. In that situation, I would run a 100 yard zero over the whole course, but thats just me. Whatever distance you decide on for zero, nothing will beat actually shooting that distance. Good luck.

Good luck with the build

In a Para, stick with their mags...... It's worth it in the long run. I have an older P-16 with a normal extractor. I don't have any experience with the power extractor.

+1 on the Redding S Bushing Dies. If you try them, you will love em. As far as using the 1050, my thoughts are these.....I load a lot of bulk ammo for pistols and rifles using Dillon progressives..... I also load lots of precision rifle rounds and for that I use two Rockchuckers. I find the rockchuckers are very accurate machines. I find that the big payoff in accuracy is not so much in full length or neck sizing only, but in case prep. Do you neck turn? Even in a SAAMI spec chamber, it works wonders, but just dont take too much off. I segregate cases by weight as well. As far as good info goes, also check out 6mmbr.com. Good good stuff for precision rifle work. Don't let the name discourage you, lots of calibers represented there.

Yes you can. It is a good way to learn how your press functions.

In .45 reloads I use tons of 230 gr and some 200 gr. I shoot tons of lead, but only in cut rifled barrels. Rather than suggest exact loads, I suggest you get (or borrow) a chronograph. It is the single greatest tool to avoid missing major ( SON OF A ..........) and blowing up a gun...........(Sumbitc*&^*&% was loud....where did the slide go??)

+1 on the bluenite post. When you have it right, it flows like water. My Dillons are awesome, but all took adjustment and learning. If the clip is low, it does drag. That moves it, making for frustration. As far as the shellplate and primer seater...... work on learning the sweet spot in the handle position. When you have pushed the handle all the way forward to seat, the ram for the primer is sticking up through the shellplate...... returning the handle to the neutral position clears the ram from the shell plate. If you try to turn with the handle slightly out of postion, the ram is striking the underside of the shellplate. To see it in action, leave the station empty and push the handle all the way forward. You will see the ram that seats the primer..... GENTLY push the shellplate as you pull the handle back to neutral. You will see the ram moving out of the way and see it as it reaches the right point and clears the shellplate. Good luck and enjoy your press!

While I don't load on that machine, it sounds like you are already working through a probable cause. The progressives depend on multiple steps happening at once and in order. Stopping and backing up are two things that open the door to missing a case. The light is good idea. I also suggest that you go a bit slower for a short time while you get used to the rig. The speed will come to you quick. Little adjustments may be in order as well to get it running smooth. I do not know that machine, is it possible to just remove a problem or suspect case from a station and just continue on? Good luck with it. And just to snake32............... big blues rock....all 3 of the ones on my bench...dont hate.

+1 on N320. Good stuff. Powders are diff and bullet selection does play a big part. for example, W231 is great with a lead 230 gr RN in my .45's but is so smokey the other guys disparge it by asking if its a black powder load.... Very acurate, but the smoke is silly thick.

They also show mags in stock at $26

Numrich gun parts. I think it is www.gunpartscorp.com. They have your stock "in stock" for $72.75. Part number 428570 They also have rifle scehmatics and all parts listed as "In stock" or "out of Stock" It's a good starting point and I have had good service from them.

Some guns like or dislike diff loads...... get a sample of several and see what your gun likes. You can see what functions well, groups accurate and feels best to shoot. Go from there.

Run the LMT for a bit while you get into it. You will get a chance to try another shooter's JP...... thats a good way to see if the price of a JP is going to be worth it to you.

Carbine collapsible stock will work fine.

i wouldn"t, but if you can make the hits, go for it.

Templique takes the guess work out of how long to heat your brass when annealing. It really works. Well worth it.

Ref the .222 mag not being able to be turned into a .223, If the barrel is original chambering, there should be enogh room to lop off a bit of the chamber end and re-chamber, new threads, etc etc. If the barrel is in good shape and you want to use it, that should be an option. To be sure, you would have to measure.

For low light work, The smallest apeture THAT YOU can see the front sight and target through. Irons, especially peep, get difficult in low light. Too big of an apeture and you might have difficulty with sight alignment, (A good solid cheek weld and stock position helps tons) and I have even seen shooters look beside the rear sight, between the wall and the outside edge of the rear peep and suddenly shoot way off (almost always left for a right handed shooter, right for a lefty)..... Smaller apeture helps accuracy, but restrict light. For irons on an AR I run a traditional flip with one small ap and one large. Some people call it the "night" sight and some the "close" (under 200 meters) sight. I leave it on the small apeture till lack of light demands the larger one. I'm pretty sure that NM rears have the same apeture sizes (just going on memory) but have finer adjustments.

If you have the chance to try out or look at gear in person (hopefully at the range) really look to see if YOU like it. Some of the gee-whiz go fast stuff just won't suit every person, no matter how cool or expensive. I have a little bit of nice gear, but have actually passed on buying some items after trying it out and realizing that it just wasn't for me. My low power optic? I love love love it. If I bragged about my pick, half would cheer and half would jeer. Figure out which ones fit the task, then pick the one out of those that works for you the best.

I have seen a jeweler locally who did it..... I asked him about the primers and he said that he soaked them in water and then pulled the anvil and compound manually with some jewelers tools while still under water. Im not sure that his experience validates it, but it was interesting.

Ok..... if the mag fits empty and doesn't work right when full, it either has a busted seam, a broken follower OR it is too full. Don't stuff AR mags as much as they will go. They have to have some play to seat on a closed BCA and most can be stuffed to one over listed capacity..... like 11 in a 10 rd and 31 in a 30 rd. If you are certain you aren't overloading your pmags and they won't run, send them back to Magpul

fer what pistola? model please.....