whistlepig

Well done, thanks!

+1 on the links above to the other threads.... good info. As far as your match experience, consider that maybe you were bull gazing a bit...... looking at the target more than the sights. You sound like that your stance and grip were sound if you were getting good hits. Something to think about next time you practice. Run a few slow, concentrating on sights then rip a few. See if you notice a diff.

+1 on gswear post. I don't know what powder you are using so I don't know if that number is right or not, but if you max out the small powder bar, put in the large one.

Take every case that doesn't measure .751 and send them to me.................. +1 on don't trim pistol brass. Never have, never will. Now rifle brass is a diff story. I do some brass prep there that is so bad I don't want to talk about it.

I'm not sure if anyone makes a drop in set, but you can make your original front sight into a fiber optic sight pretty easy. If you have access to a mill and/or a gunsmith willing to do it, it's not a very difficult job. The sight is drilled straight through for the fiber and the top is notched to let in light. The fiber optic pieces are avail from several sources. If you look into that, just prepare carefully as to what size hole you drill.

If you don't care for looking at bunged-up screw heads, get the right screw drivers. Yes, they are worth having. A regular screwdriver works sometimes, but remember thats were those bunged-up screw heads came from

Even though you said the mags worked in other guns, I suggest that you check close to see if it is one particular mag (or mags) Some guns, especially in 9mm and .38 super are real finnicky when it comes to mags being in tune. I would look first at magazines. It sounds like you are using reloads. If so, is it mixed brass? 9mm is famous for diff rim thickness.

Whichever one you shoot better, faster.

what works for me might not work for you......... I find that as the sights come up my focus is changing from the target to the sights...... There are probably a million better ways to answer your question, but I keep my eyes on the target and bring the sights into place..... as that happens, I find that my change in focus is happened and im ready to shoot.

There are lots of threads and even more opinions out there....... when u need to make a certain FPS in any application, there is no substitute for actually trying your own setups on a chrono. Depending on someone elses chrono results in a diff location and under diff conditions is a bit risky.

wolf +10 springs

beats me, but if you have two broken halves, why not try? you will be no worse off....... try it and let us know.

For a direct gas impingement AR, the lack of ventilation would be a downer. That would get hot QUICK. "Hey, why did you throw that down, was it hot?? No, I was just tired of holding it......" That is a direct quote from the range when a guy burned his palm down to the new meat on a hot barrel. For a piston AR, it would be viable in theory in ref to the much lower heat build up, but I don't know if a piston setup would fit under that specific handguard. I like to save coin with the best of them, but for running and gunning, I think it's penny wise, pound foolish.

Warm up your loads slowy as mentioned above...... look for pressure signs as you go. I imagine you are not far from where you need to be

4.7 grains? do u have access to a chrono? if so what is it running fps wise? and does it cycle with factory ammo? and describe the failure..... does the empty stay in the chamber? stovepipe?

See it all the time with Benchresters and precision rifle guys.... They tend to use arbor presses with hand dies or single stages. Single stage works pretty well with some prep work before range time. Consider prepping some brass with sizing, belling (if pistola) and priming before you go. Powder measures like Redding with a small stand and clamped down work well, make sure to take scales, have your seat die and crimp die set with locking rings and viola......

I hate your having trouble..... I run two 650s and love em. Getting the adjustments right is a bear sometimes. I imagine that you would really like loading on a 1050, but caliber conversion is a chore. It is really a unit that shines when set up and adjusted for one caliber. I would suggest that you see if you could actually check it out in person if anyone in your area runs a 1050. As far as trimming goes, it sounds like from your post that you do it under power in a tool head. Rather than getting a 3rd one for a 1050, just for one purpose, consider doing the trim work on your single stage. Let me know if the 650 goes up for sale at a good price....... or maybe trade for a 550?

Check firing pin channel for trash obstruction and firing pin tip for damage. That it ran for a while, then starting having trouble indicates something has changed. It could be ammo related, but if you are seeing evidence of a light strike, its prob not the ammo. Send me a PM if you need further. I'm not too far away.

Me like a smith and alexander magwell

Change now.

Unless something has changed, you will get a piece of red and green in the appropriate size with the sight when you order it.

Any quality steel picatinny rail could be be fitted to the gun.... If the the gun is already tapped for a base, the new mount may need to have new holes drilled for the mounting screws to line up. Last months precision shooting magazine had a good article about bedding picatinny rails to rifles to strengthen and true the mounting. Good read.

Old saying about firing stance..... ears in front of shoulders, shoulders in front of hips..........

While not throwing rocks at any other brand, I say go blue....... I have several. I would suggest that if you know any loaders who use progressives, to ask to see their setups and even load some on their machine. That way you can get some actual hands on experience on whatever brands they like and see the diff for yourself. I know a few loaders who love their red machines, but the vast majority of people I know that load on progressives use Dillon.

Me thinks you are overthinking this.... take the sight tool to the range with you, make adjustments to what works and drive on. Don't be concerned if the sight is off center.