CZinSC

Cowpoke's Watering Hole. No....seriously. It's a pretty decent steak joint. About 5 mins south of the big lake on Hwy 27.

N320 is way cleaner than Tightgroup. The brass is about 1000 degrees cooler when you go to pick it up after being shot. Not that that really matters, just a fact. For feel, the best way to describe is with equal PF charges, using a baseball analogy, Tightgroup feels like catching a hard thrown baseball right on the palm of your glove. N320 feels like you caught the same ball in the webbing. Don't get me wrong....I'm not saying N320 is soft. You literally have to shoot them side by side to feel the difference. personally i like the clean burning and feel of 320, and gladly pay the higher price.

I just measured a Henning base pad if you're curious. The bottom is .051" thick ( or thin! )

i have been able to get 20 in the mag, Reloadable, since Day one. K40 Mags with Grams follower/springs. I use an Uplula and Henning's tap technique. I usually load 10 by hand, give it a quick tap, then load 5 more by hand, and then give it a harder tap. When you tap, make sure you're doing it the right way. You tap the bottom of the mag on the heel of your palm, then tap the BACK of the mag on the heel of your palm. Make sure you're tapping the back, forcing/guiding the bullets to sit flush with the back of the mag. if you do it the wrong way, you're probably going to make it worse. for Rounds 15-20 i use the Uplula. I can usually get to 18 by hand easy, but i know i'll need the Lula for the last two anyway, so i grab the Lula and 5 rounds to make it easier. In the beginning the 19 and 20th rounds were a lot harder to get in then they are now, but you should still be able to get 20 in reloadable from the beginning. OAL also has a lot to do with it i found. For K40, in case you don't know, you cannot load past 1.145 reliably. If you do, when you get down to about 12 rounds they will start to bind up. I found that when i was loading 1.140-1.145 it was harder to load 20. I'm closer to 1.130 now and it's a lot easier. Granted, i've put a lot more rounds through the mags so it is probably just the spring being a little more broken in, but either way, just figured i'd throw that out there. FYI, i am able to CRAM 21 rounds in all mags, but no where near reloadable. Once, i was able to start a stage 21+1, but it was a local and i was just having fun. I wouldn't have done that at a major, no way.That first bullet gets fed a lot slower than the rest. But it was a 22 rounds all paper stage and i went for broke!

It's also SAO, so unless you converted to DA, it would be illegal that way as well.

Spinx has a couple of guns on the Production list that are 50 oz. I've held one, it's heavy, and i was shooting Shadow and Stock 2. That 7 extra ounces is heavy! You really don't see Spinx in the US, i only know of one shooter that has one.

I used to use ProGrip all the time. I still think it's a great product, ( the spray is a lot better than the lotion ), but i prefer PrimoChalk. I started using this at the gym, and the feeling is not like normal weight lifting chalk. It has a tackiness to it, not just a powder. i think the last time i ordered it, i got the 4 chalk balls and it last two years. Dont buy the loose, get the chalk balls. http://www.roguefitness.com/primo-chalk-balls

The normal post lady will deliver to the garage door because she knows that is where i take them anyway. I used to have a backup guy that delivered on monday's and he would pull the truck in the driveway and talk guns with me, he was a shooter himself. He was able to do the route in a few hours less than the normal lady, so he always had time to kill.

I knew my case of BBI's were out for delivery today because i was tracking the package. Of course the mail truck comes when i was on a conference call. So after the call i go downstairs and the girlfriend says "your bullets are in the front yard". I say "you mean front steps". "No....i mean front yard". Apparently the normal mail lady was off today and the reserve USPS driver said "I don't know whats in here, but its too heavy for me, i'm going to leave it right here" If it wasn't so comical, I'd call and complain. Plus, I figure if i complain, they'll say next time i have to come down to the Post Office and pick up my boxes. At least she put them in the shade!

Test your gun. Only way to know for sure. I had an SP01 and longer was better to a point. I loaded MG 124 FMJ's from 1.125 out to 1.165. 1.150 was the best. You will see tons of guys that say shorter is better. Ask them if they actually tested. BMaus above says he and his friend tested and shorter was better, so that is good, but as you can see i tested and longer was better. Test your gun.

You don't not need to overtighten that screw, you need to loctite. As Gary said, it's staked from the factory. Once you remove it, you'll need to either restake or loctite. Loctite is easier. Blue loctite. You want to put loctite on the screw, then put it in. Tighten it until that spring starts to pull away from the frame. When it does, back out the screw a half turn or until it stops pulling away from the frame. Leave the gun to let the loctite set. I suggest overnight. I did that many times when owning an SP01 and NEVER had an issue with the screw backing out. Also, make sure you have a gunsmith screwdriver blade. That would be one where the blade is square, not a wedge like most screwdrivers. You can pick one up cheap at Walmart. If you use a regular blade, the chances of buggering up that screw are very good once its loctited.

when you install the mag release catch screw, the trigger bar lifter spring rests under it. if you tighten it too much, the spring will pull away from the frame. The key is to tighten the screw until the spring starts to pull away, then back off so the spring rests back against the frame. You also need to have already put loctite on that screw. Use the blue. you don't want that screw working loose.

I lived 20 miles north of NYC for 30+ years. Finally got a job that enabled me to travel and see there is so much out there ( and BETTER ) than what you will find in NY. It's only getting worse. I moved to SC and can't ever see myself leaving. When I go back to NY to visit my parents, i enjoy the time i spend with them, but count the minutes until i can leave and go back home.

Two of my favorites are the Frank Garcia Dot drill: http://pistol-training.com/drills/frank-garcias-dot-drill and this one from Leatham : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YLRxohRdIys For Leatham's, you will burn through a lot of ammo, but it's fun. i have a piece of steel that is the size of an A Zone, so i put it on the target and put the target at 8 yards ( leatham never says the distance in the video ). It's easy to tell when you miss because of the steel. When i do the drill, if i miss going up, i go back to the start. I don't recall ever getting higher than 8.

i bought a cheapo poncho for like $6 at Dicks. Drape it over the wagon, not overly big, but big enough to cover everything and keep it dry. I found one that is clear, so you see through it and still know where stuff is making it easier to lift up when you need to get something out. I have some spring clamps that i use around the garage, just attach them to the side of the cart and they can hold the poncho down if you need to.

130-133 PF. 11# recoil spring. Changed it regularly. When i spoke with CZ they said they had seen it before, not common, but it has happened. They think it was probably a bad batch of slides. Basically "shit happens". they replaced for free. So i was satisified.

This was my SP01 ( non Shadow ). Gun had 33K rounds through it.

I did this very thing on my SP01 (non shadow). It made the right side safety stiff as hell, and awesome. it was the perfect solution. Until the next time i tore the gun down to the frame to clean it and that right side detent spring came out. It was such a PITA to get it back in, and as i recall, at one point it shot across the room while trying to install it. I didn't bother looking for it, and just ran the gun with a sloppy right side safety until the day i sold it. So if you do manage to get that detent spring to stay in, any time you take the slide off, it will have an oppotunity to come out. It's not like the left side which is meant to be there. The right side never had it, so it's not designed to stay in. It will, with a lot of effort, but it will come out VERY easily. Good luck.

Got mine today also. I didn't have the Xtreme grips, so i cannot compare to them. I had the old Henning grips, and they are definitely tackier. if anyone has the old style Henning grips, they are the same profile, but the texture is sharper/better, and there is a thumb relief on the left side. Can't wait to use them this weekend. Overall, i love them.

just make sure the rubber band is tight, otherwise the powder bar can still move if it is bumped. but i think you get the idea.

on the 650, take out the failsafe rod. Put a case WITH the spent primer intact ( ie: dont run it through station one ) in the powder station. Then pull the handle all the way down and leave it. Now rig something ( i use a big rubber band ) and pin the powder bar and prevent it from moving. Now release handle. the powder bar will stay put, but the belling die will return to normal and you can bang out as many dummy rounds as you want. I'll try and post a picture in a few minutes of what i mean.

Can you describe a little more what to trim? i installed the trigger all was well, and then no reset while live firing. Take it apart, no problem. Slide on, problem. TIA

i've loaded GFL a number of times in 9mm. Never had any issues.

Thank you all! it was a combinatin of what Britan said and on that same panel somehow "just items that i follow" had gotten checked. no idea how that happened, but that was the real reason i was seeing so few posts. Thank you one and all!

You can try K10's. Most have issues with loading 20 the mags swell and they don't drop free. Some people have luck with them, others not so much.