Boxerglocker

PA makes good products but in most cases the Warranty is limited, where the Vortex is lifetime. Another con is with PA, stock can be a ways out for a warranty issue. Lastly, I personally think that though they are both similar the Strike Eagle reticle if you place them side by side is easier to use.

You will probably find that it's not a case that Dillon doesn't use torque wrenches but your expectation of what the actual torque values should be is lower. 7/8-14 steel threads for dies on a aluminum tool head have a general max torque value of about 1400-1500 inch pounds (125 ft. lbs) granted that is not necessarily all needed, but remember the 1050 is a commercial grade machine. I personally torque my dies with a torque wrench to 25 ft. lbs and the tool head on the 1050 to 35 ft.lbs using the appropriate socket or adapter. I have never had a die or tool head come loose once all dies a centered and torqued and it takes moderate effort to remove them with a "long" handled box wrench. I use inspectors torque lacquer so that I have an instant visual reference should one actually back out.

Washing in hot water and simple green and a rifle cleaning mop work too.

The Federal primers will more than likely compensate for the FTF problem. However, I personally would not want to have to rely on HAVING to use only Feds. I have a Gen 3, Glock 34 with well over 40K rounds of reloads has a full lightened competition spring kit and Ghost Rocket connector. It is a pretty nice light trigger and all I have ever used is CCI or harder primers (Wolf, Winchester, S&B) loaded on my 650/1050. I have never had a FTF that I couldn't attribute to a short stroked high primer. I would double check operation with your current reloads and factory ammo choices before committing to using just Feds. Cleaning the gun, especially the striker channel will make a huge difference in the inertia properties of the trigger/striker.

There is an actually conversion barrel, 40-9 barrels have the same outside diameter as the OEM 40 and thicker walls. Reliability wise a 9mm ejector and mags would be optimal, but I've seen many run them with just the barrel only and have no issues. Back when I lived in California over 10 years ago, I ran a G22 for a long time with just such a setup at local matches using mostly beer can blazer ammo. I even had a G27 with a LWD 40-9 that had over 30K flawless shots fired out of it that way. I sold all my Glock 40s before I left CA and went all 9mm in WA.

135 RN moly or coated with 4.0 WST @ 1.150 OAL average 1000fps for me out of a 5" 9mm 1911 and Glock 34. Very accurate, soft recoil and little smoke.

I own a 650 and a 1050 both of which are extremely well maintained, and have run the same calibers in each for comparison. The 1050 just for the primer seating alone indeed is much easier operate. You will especially notice it when loading military calibers even with de-swagged primer pockets. I fully process my .223 brass on the 1050 and load it up on the 650. After I'm done processing .223 brass the 1050 is set-up to load 9mm for the rest of the year (eliminates issues when coming across military crimped 9mm cases)

If black/black front/rear sights are your choice.... between the options listed there isn't much if any difference other than personal preference. However if a fiber optic front plain black rear is your choice the TTIs hands down are the better option. TTis fiber is set higher up the sight post and much easier/quicker to line up precision shots.

Thanks Dillon. I'll pick one up as a just in case spare next time I make an order at Newark. http://www.newark.com/multicomp/gbpc2506/bridge-rectifier-single-phase/dp/90R8640

I've had this exact same problem once before. Ensure that your powder drop funnel is fully engaging to a stop when the ram is lifted on the handle down stroke and that the fail safe wingnut is compressed within one credit card width of full. Other than those things, clean all the parts thoroughly and you should be good. I use BLC-2 for .223 (and .308) and literally haven't touched my powder settings in the last 8 pounds worth. I load at a consistent 2 second count to ensure consistent 27.0g drops.

As long as it's cost effective for you definitely.

Would you be able to talk to the manufacturer and get the recommended specs for the rectifier diode used? Rectifier diodes are literally $1 retail at the most if you know where to look. I'd like to get a spare to have handy.

Thanks for this tip and link! I've been procrastinating doing the research in doing this exact same thing for my war belt defense training rig.

This is so true... with the Uniquetek powder adjustment is so much easier, especially if you switch powders often.

I have the entire CARBS set-up in ELS along with the Springer Precision holster hanger for ELS. It is an awesome. I decided against just doing the ratchet alone on the Safariland belt as I did not want to remove the studs and velcro then have to cut it. I have the size large and there is 5 inch gap end to so requested the 14 inch strap upgrade. The best thing about other than being able to tighten and loosen your belt between stages is not needing to ask a buddy to help get those stupid studs lined up for you getting geared up.

I have gone through that same single pin at a time warranty before. I now have 3 spare UNIV DECAP PINS/90292 for my 2 dies, they were only $1.99 back when I bought them. Since having them I have only broke one early last season. Once I break a second. I'll send contact them for warranty.

Lee will replace them for free. I resolved these issues by doing the following: Ensure the press is adjusted properly at the case insert to fully place the cases into the shell plate slot. Center the Lee decap die in the tool head bore by loosening the lock ring, place a deprimed case at station one, lift the ram until the pin goes through the primer flash hole. Then lock the die down. Lastly make sure your press is well lubed, especially the zerk grease points. You will be amazed how much better your feel is and just the slightest amount of unusually high resistance can be felt. This will help you stop and assess quicker before bending or breaking pins. I literally just last night deprimed my 5000 case since my last pin bent/broke and that i believe was just due to wear.

My first question is how much reloading experience do you have? I personally see a lot of redundancy in your list. For example you don't need 3 powder checks, you need to check/adjust each time you switch calibers anyways. Multiple calibers, with quick changes IMO if you load enough to make the expense for the switching worth while great, otherwise waste of money IMO. I load 500-1000 a session and dump my powder back into the jug. I use a single powder drop with a Uniquetek micrometer dial. Depending on your experience. I would suggest that perhaps getting the 650 set-up for just one caliber to start and maybe an extra toolhead, dies, conversion might be a good way to really evaluate what you really need. Switching pistol calibers even from scratch isn't difficult IF you know what you are doing.

44.0-46.0g of TAC will get you there, LC brass isn't an issue.

For 3gun beyond 300 yards, I load a 69g Nosler Competition HPBTs at max mag length backed with either 24.2g of TAC or 25.2g RE15. I use sorted LC once fired, minimum head spaced brass which I process on my 1050, both loads push 2875-2900fps out of my 1-8 twist 18 inch barrel and are 1 MOA out to 500 yards confirmed.

I’ve had basically the same experience as JJ. I process all my .223 brass for 3gun using 55 Hornady FMJBTs and 69 Nosler HPBTs on my 1050. I first deprime on my 650 and cleaning wet/SS. On the 1050, I use a full length Dillon sizing die, RT1200B trimmer, Lyman “M” die in my set-up followed by a dry tumble in corncob with a little Nu-Finish. I load on my 650, using a slight Dillon taper crimp to finish them off. I get well 1 MOA for my loads using mixed brass and if I sort well within MOA. I process my precision bolt gun .223 and .308 Lapua brass the same way removing the M die and chamfering slightly by hand for initial firing, after which I neck size only.

I’ve seen that type of a setup before and the vest style shoulder strapped chest rig just isn’t for me. I actually want the versatility of being able to wear it on my back when starting a stage prone then if worn loose enough turn it around after standing.

I had a look at the video on Keith's FB page looks to be this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BRPNPYU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3KFSS0EQ5OYS&coliid=I17HSAIHBY1B1K&psc=1 I'm going to measure myself over the weekend and order one Monday.

Does anyone have a link to the type of belt Garcia is using? I've been thinking on mounting my Invictus chest rig on something similar as well. Ideally finding something similar to the chameleon belt which is only offered as a load 2.

If funny, Stoeger arbitrarily sent me a another inertia spring that I just received the other day. Now I have 2 spares as well as a spare extractor as I replaced my M3k's with Benelli parts.