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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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  • Birthday 04/05/1966

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    Jacksonville, FL
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    Mark Mathis

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  1. 6.6g of Power Pistol or 6.0 of WSF under a coated 180g RNPF is a nice soft shooting "range load" for 10mm... Still hits 1050 or so still a decent load but without the hammer of the 1250 and up loads.
  2. Are Gen3's just an upgrade or fixing problems with previous gen dies? Did MA offer upgrades/replacement to buyers of previous gen dies?
  3. RF's are pretty hefty and bottom heavy, hard to believe someone could knock one over "barely touching it..." lol, but I guess stranger things have happened. As I've stated before, I'm pretty happy with mine - both have rheostats - one was upgraded, one came from Dillon with it. I run Winchester Primers almost 100% of the time - no issues. Once initially tuned, they run like a top really. That being said, AD makes (or is licensed to produce, I think?) a great bullet feeder, so they usually turn out decent stuff. The Primer filler actually looks nicer than their automatic brass marker, which I have - which is kind of a garage project rushed into production too soon IMO. To bad they don't have a LP option, one would assume they will follow up with one. They may just be testing the market with the SP version first due to popular SP calibers.
  4. Another one shot fan for pistol cases... I use Dillon dies. Although occasionally if I pull some shorter strait wall cases strait from the vibratory cleaner they'll have a light dusty coating and I can run them nekkid :).
  5. Well the 550 didn't show (Damn Fedex) so I had some free time (the 2nd half of the SEC Championship game opened up for me, unfortunately ) so worked on the 1050 some more. Wound up pulling the the Redding's and going back to my Dillon dies. Just not enough benefit for what.. 4x the cost?. Back to Brownells they go. Had the Dillons' set in about 2 minutes.
  6. The Dillon (PISTOL) dies have an internal sleeve that floats, so the interior is smooth - no threads for the Redding or Hornady micrometer head to thread into. EDIT - Actually I am referring to pistol above. The RIFLE Seating die does have threads, but I'm not certain of the thread size/pitch...
  7. What is the benefit here over the tab... to allow one to remove the case quicker/easily if need be? I switched to the clear tab, but it's not particularity useful at all really - you stil have to unbolt it completely if you want to remove a case (well, a 45 case at least) at that station to check/clear any primer issue... I was thinking about dremeling the slot open on the shell plate end so you could just slide it out when needed... But if the spring mod allows one to just pop it out I might use a 550 spring out of my spares kit. :).
  8. Re OAL variance, yeah that's what I suspected, and would see the same from other dies, a couple thou either way - but other dies don't cost $100 a pop Using the Dillon's for so long I've gotten used to using the flats of the adjustment nut, ie 1 flat turn is so much, a half flat turn is so much, etc. I'm going to run some more before making a final decision, but may just swap back to the Dillon counterparts and save myself about $200. These probably have a place, but long stretches of bulk loading mixed brass on a progressive probably isn't really it :). I do use Forster micrometer dies for my precision rifle loading on the co-ax though, for instance. But that will wait, new 550C arrives today so it's 550 setup day for me :). Actually should be pretty straitforward I'm just replacing a 550B so just mounting and moving stuff over/tweaking setup.
  9. Thanks, I tweaked both some more tonight - actually I basically started over since I wanted to swap to the smaller Dillon lock rings. I'm not seeing the wiping/shiny that I was before - I'm walking a fine line between just enough flair to use a MBF but not too excessive for the seater sleeve. I did some short test runs tonight.. so far I really don't see any real difference from using my Dillon dies, other than once they are set up, it is easier to make a change. The seating die depth seems to move around a bit, which is annoying, honestly. It's only a few thousandths, and could be due to my bullet choice, a coated 230g RN - a jacketed bullet might be more consistent maybe? The taper crimp die seems to be working well, even with mixed brass. As I mentioned before, I'm on the fence. I'm just not seeing a great benefit over the standard Dillon dies I've used forever, other than the ease adjustability I suppose.
  10. Well I flip-flopped, figured i would try the comp seater and micrometer taper crimp dies in one caliber, so ordered a pair in 45acp. I'm not wild about the round lock rings, it's hard to get them tight to the toolhead, and I've had the die back out a few times while I was setting up the die. Not a lot of room to get a bite on them with pliers on the 1050. I am probably going to swap the Redding round nuts for standard Dillon lock nuts unless there's a compelling reason not to. The seat dies works well enough, I was able to dial it in pretty quickly, other than the lock ring deal. The taper crimp die though, it's odd. There's a bit of a "hitch" when the die comes up almost like the brass is sticking for a sec then it pops loose. I suspect my crimp may be a bit too much, I was shooting for .471 like my previous loading session but likely need to open it up a bit with these coated 230's. But even with a lesser crimp ie around 473-474 it still "grabs" the brass before popping loose, but not as bad. Also leaves a shiny ring around the cased mouth, which the Dillon die never did. So more tweaking is needed for sure.
  11. No I never found a vid, but it was pretty strait forward - I just used the schematic of the press as a guide to see how the pieces should come apart. Pulled it all apart, replaced the key, re-lubed, etc where applicable and put it all back. http://dillonprecision.com/docs/super_1050_lower_machine_assembly.pdf There's nothing really to trip you up, other than getting the crankshaft out - since it's keyed it doesn't slide out, so I took a soft punch and 4oz ball hammer and tapped it out, taking care to not hit or nick up the bearings coming out or going back in.
  12. I wouldn't mind running across an old RL in decent shape for a nice price :).
  13. I agree, I also have a 1050 and a 550, basically run all my semi-auto calibers on the 1050, and revolver calibers on the 550. Also have a Coax for loading some PR stuff. But the 1050/1100 and 550 combo is a nice complimentary setup
  14. I thought the 1100 supposed to drive the 1050 price down, not up :(. I was considering pickup up a 550C to replace my pre-B 550... but at that price I'll just hang on to mine. Actually I should have bought one at the fun show last month, they were $420 :). Oh well, it's not like I need to replace mine, it's humming along nicely, only doing revolver cartridges now - everything else is either on the 1050 or the Coax. EDIT - Although it's still $440 on the website, so if someone wants one, now is the time I guess. I went ahead and ordered one.
  15. I've got one of his early versions, before the website existed. Great mount/stand, way better than that orange plate LR sells
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