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  • Birthday 04/05/1966

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    Jacksonville, FL
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    Mark Mathis

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  1. I've got one of these on my tube - never run across a steel case but seems like cheap insurance :). https://ammobot.us/ammobot-steel-case-guard/
  2. 1 - Several options, I use the Inline Fab casefeed stop (https://inlinefabrication.com/products/case-feed-stop-dillon-1050), but there are less costly 3d printed versions on ebay pretty often. Or you can use a homemade solution like a twisted up wire, pipe cleaner, etc... 2. The primary purpose of the swager is crimping out the primer pocket (and opening up the case mouth if needed in the same step). You generally don't run into crimped primer pockets on 40 (which I think is what you were referring to)... anyway the Dillon swager rod is considered one of the weak points of the 1050, which might be one reason you see folks recommend to back it off if not actually using it, to prevent any accidental contact (missed primer) that might break it. Personally, I set the swager to swage as required when running brass that might have crimps, ie 556 or nato 9mm, but when running 45 I remove it and swap in a Small Pistol Primer detector instead. The Hold back die will still open up the brass and prevent runout on the shellplate. Other calibers I just set it similar to how you mentioned, so that I will feel a missed primer on the downstroke. 3. I have the Everglades backer (I think this is what you meant, not EGW?) on my 45acp toolhead as well. It's been discussed some, the Everglades version is just a threaded bolt essentially so there is no "give" like you would see with the Level 10 product, so seems of little benefit unless processing sorted brass. Mixed brass will have variations in case length and base thickness rendering the EGA hit or miss. I haven't removed it, and have many times though about epoxying a small short spring on the bottom of the bolt that would allow it a bit of give, thus making it more useful for mixed brass runs - but never followed through with it. I'm not sure how necessary it really is to be honest. I think EGA developed it for their presses which had run 10's of thousands of rounds so were pretty well worn. 4. Several options - Using backup cam meant for auto's, or an endoscope that attaches to a tablet or similar small flat screen monitor. Search through the forum you'll find a few posts on it - https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/241288-diy-dillon-1050-powder-camera-video/? Honestly though, it's dang near impossible to load a double or a squib on a 1050 when using the newer style PM failsafe. I've got a monitor setup on mine but have been considering taking it off - i don't even use it that much, my eyes are on the tool head anyway so I can see the powder fairly well regardless. 5. Depends on caliber - I usually pull a few rounds at the beginning right away and double check everything, then run 10 or 20, and pull another. If no issues there I'll randomly grab a couple per hundred. 9mm is the worst for me I'm finding, so I have started checking more often. But typical strait wall 45/10mm etc I don't pull as often. 6. This is a whole 'nother thread lol Check out the 9mm 1050 dies thread there is a lot of talk about size/decap dies. The Dillon die actually sizes further down than the Lee IIRC, and is akin to a small base/undersize die... almost. I think the lee advertises .003 undersize, and the EGW is .001. Lots of guys are changing to the Mighty Armory dies, but there have been QC and shipping issues. I tried the Lee Size/Decap and Factory Crimp Dies but am currently back to using the Dillon dies. 9mm is a work in progress for me at this point so I am still working out the issues so am leery to give advise here. However depending on the desired result (are you loading match brass, or range fodder), sometime a case gauge can have you chasing your a$$ forever. For range use a better option is to use your firearm's barrel/chamber as a checker. General tips - Don't start adding a bunch of gimmick bearings/balls/etc - just keep the system clean and lubed. Do add a Level 10 toolhead spring, it is miles better than the Dillon setup. The Level 10 primer catch kit is also a nice useful upgrade. Redding comp dies are solid, good choices there. Dillon/Lee/EGW/MA size decap dies are all good. Dillon probably has the weakest pin (but does have the spring to help offset that.). Actually the c-clip can break, I broke the clip before I bent a pin, so make sure you have an extra or two if keeping the Dillon decap die in place. I think all die sets include one extra c-clip in the box, or at least they used to. Removing unused primers is a pain/mess, so try to end a run as close to running out or primers as possible :).
  3. Yep I am starting to agree... I never had these issues when I only spot checked a few rounds lol. Seriously though it's good point. I have two primary 9mm chambers I load for, M&P 2.0 and DW, which require drastically different OAL's so I basically have two different pet loads I run for them. In this situation as long as it chambers for the barrel I am loading for, it's all gravy.
  4. First use of striped brass earlier this week at the range...didn't lose one piece of 10mm brass lol. Pretty happy with the results, although manual marking would have worked to I suppose :).
  5. Man I must have jinxed myself after posting about not having any issues in one of the 9mm die threads lol... worked up a new load, ran 50 rounds of it to do some final testing. Decided to be more proactive about checking rounds instead of just pulling one every once in a while. So of 50 rounds give or take, I'd say I had maybe a 1 to 4 ratio of rounds that would not cleanly drop in and out of a Dillon case guage. Most were just barely above the flat, but I had a few that were a good 1/8 to 3/16 out. So I took those 10 or 12 or so, ran them back through the seating and crimping stations a second time, and probably half of them would now drop in/out fine. So I have a few left that are still "out". Then I threw a FCD in a single stage on my Inline Fab Quick mount, ran it down on a good round, pulled the round and turned the crimp down 1/2 turn more, which finished up all but 1 round. Now all of these "sightly out" of the gauge would plunk and spin fine in the handgun I was loading these for, except for the few that were excessively out of course. So not sure how critical it is for my range fodder to be perfect in a gauge. Even still, that much variance is bugging me. I sized a bunch of cases, and all dropped in the gauge fine so I'm not looking at a sizing die issue best I can tell. I moved the bullet down a smidge to 1.13 as these coated RN's have a wider ogive than common RN's, thinking maybe that was it. Better results, but still have rounds failing the gauge, but typically chambering fine.. I also have crimp set to 378 with the dillon crimp die. The FCD when used is taking it down a bit further. Anyway, just frustrating to think I had it all working great, when in fact I guess I didn't, and still don't. . Going to get this sorted, then run about 3k rounds and be done with 9mm for a while. My 10mm is running low so need to get this done and switch the 1050 over to LP lol.
  6. I also like the older style, have several that I run on the 550 with dual springs and eliminate the FS rod (in fact, AHI's pic above is one of my PMs ). But on the 1050 I've stuck with the newer KaKlunk style that comes with the 1050 QC kits. There was a webpage (eric's page referenced in the link above) that showed how to convert the new style to the old style, but it's not available online anymore for whatever reason. I should have saved that down, I usually do when I find stuff like that b/c it often disappears :(.
  7. Several threads on worth it or not - general consensus is - for the occasional user probably not. Pro Chrono is a better value for someone who pulls out the chrono maybe a couple times a year. However, if you do load development, or use a chrono often, multiple types of firearms, indoor use, etc the LabRadar is very much worth it.. Re the OP's issues, I ran into similar issues with my first unit and returned it. Bought another one a bit later and it has been trouble free. The early firmware's could be picky about setup, but the current firmware is solid - I'm pretty much running mine with out of the box settings except for projectile weight and changing for pistol or rifle as needed. Do the reset as already suggested, make sure you have the latest firmware installed, pay attention to aiming (straw, cheap plastic speed square, or this uber fancy 3d printed sight -(https://mkmachining.com/product/improved-labradar-sight/). Power issues with the external battery back were another issue with early firmware as well. Personally, I'm using the Amazon version of the Labradar branded orange/white USB Battery and I've used it for probably the last 5 or 6 sessions and it still has plenty of charge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A08K178/ Anyway, I love using mine, and have delegated my Pro Chrono to archery use :).
  8. For which press? For the 1050, if you use the swage backup die adjusted correctly you really don't need an aftermarket powder funnel. For other presses, Both the Mr. Bullet and Uniquetek are good substitutes for the Dillon, or taking your dillon and cleaning it up with a fine emory cloth/flitz polish. A lot of folks recommend running the Mr, Bullet ones, but I've had more issues with them than just using the stock dillon funnels tbh.
  9. Here's a quick pic, essentially just double the springs on the PM, and get rid of the failsafe rod altogether... Just look in every case as you place the bullet. eg...
  10. Mine's the same way, a Pre-Letter 550 model. Holding up fine. I also ran into the CF issue, I've got a thread on it a few years back. At the time Dillon was sending out modified shellplate holder which was thinner to allow the CF to fit/work correctly so no milling required, but they did tell me they only has a small supply. I guess they ran out so now the only option is to mill the frame. You could also optionally upgrade to the C-Frame for less that $110 it appears, switching over all of your current components. https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-rl-450-rl550c-upgrade-frame-change-kit_8_6_23995.html Depending on if/what they charge for the milling, that could be a better option. For that matter, one could probably sell their 550/550B and buy a new C press and not be out of pocket much too more than the $110 upgrade fee as well. Personally I thought the Dillion CaseFeeder was a mess and took it off pretty quickly, and would not recommend it, nor milling.upgrading just for the sake of the casefeed.
  11. Yep no worries, I wasn't trying to step on your post, it was more in the context of the "1K used 1050" discussion aspect :). I'm close enough to it that I thought about pinging you on press only option, but figured you wanted to dump everything :). Glad you found a buyer. 550's are great, I still have one that I use for my revolver cartridges that I don't shoot near as many of. Something therapeutic about placing case, placing bullet, pull, turn, repeat :).
  12. Yeah looks like it sold. Honestly the condition of the other items made me suspect the condition of the press as well. Plus sitting in storage for 5 years...who knows. Couple posts in the thread talking about what a great deal it was which threw me - looked pretty well beat up to me. But maybe it was a gem in the rough kinda deal, you never know :). Personally at that price I'd just spend 150 more for a new Super, but some do prefer the RL to the Super so could have been that as well.
  13. A 1050 (RL I think) just popped up on Arfcom for 1599... it's close enough to go pick up, but the press is wrapped so you can't really tell the condition. but if the dies/accessories are any indicator, it's in pretty beat shape :(. To much for me anyway, still looking for that 1K one :).
  14. Ok got the Brush tips, MUCH MUCH better - thanks @Balakay Also, a Acme Coated 255 .44 bullet nose fits the recess on the tail end of the Brush Tip Sharpie perfectly. Added some tape around the barrel as suggested and all seems to be working better. Only thing is sometime the round feeds opposite way around, so the marks are on the other end, but that's minor and just some more tweaking I think. Now I just have to figure out how to get it inline with my 1050. The press isn't high enough off the bench to use the IF tray like I was hoping, so I'll likely have to cobble something up.
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