Boxerglocker

I only lightly crimp my 55g FMJs to lightly crimp smooth the bell from the M die, 69g Nosler competitions I do the same.

BA didn't get dropped by other OEMs thier majority share was acquired and is now owned by Aero Precision. http://www.guns.com/2015/03/18/aero-precision-and-ballistic-advantage-forge-new-partnership/ Knowing a couple employees in sales and marketing personally. I can guarantee that should you shoot that barrel and it's not up to the standard it was marketed and sold to be, they will fix it.

None, the case feeder is solidly mounted to the press anyways. No real weight is on the case feeder support when the press is mounted directly to a bench top. The stiffness of the mount along with it's increased foot print significantly increases the stability of the press and the added height makes it perfect in my opinion.

No, I have literally never had a problem. I did read about it when looking into get my first case feeder Dillon, a XL650. The 2 things that I read about that attributed to the "case waterfall" were; 1. Unstable shaky bench and 2. Not adjusting the metal table at the exit of the correlator so only one case feed plate hole was exposed at a time. I've had mine adjusted like it is in the picture since day 1, zero issues even when I switch the plate out to small rifle.

I would highly suggest getting a Inline Fabrication 1050 riser mount before drilling into that nice bench top.

I don't understand why some people have such a hard time separating pins. It's not hard, it literally takes me no more than 10 minutes to separate and rinse my brass. I don't even touch the cases or pins. (one of these days I'm going to actually video the way I do it) I've tried cleaning both ways with and without and there is no contest on which cleans the best. This LC LR brass was literally dark when I got it but after only 2 hours wet tumbling in pins... spotless inside and out.

It’s been a long time since I have had an issue but for me the key is making sure that the pin size used is doesn’t clog up flash holes. I use Stainless Steel Tumbling Media Pins - 0.047" Diameter, 0.255" Length. I use my media separator rotating cage and bucket flooded with water and spin the brass free of pins. Then when dry, I double check with a strong welding pick up magnet, $6.99 at Harbor Freight Tools.

Patience Bud, patience... you should have just waited for that M die to show get your case prep right and consistent. I personally think your below a accuracy node at 24.0-24.3 and should hit a node the 24.8 to 25.5 mark but that is just me. Hornady #9 data with a 68gr Hornady BTHP using CFE223, OAL as 2.250" here is what they list: 22.5gr - 2500 fps 23.5gr - 2600 fps 24.4gr - 2700 fps 25.4gr - 2800 fps 26.3gr - 2900 fps CFE223 is the only powder listed under the 2900 fps line, all others stop at 2800 fps. Your going to want that 2800 velocity going out to 500-600 yards.

Forget about trying to simulate a 600 yard target at 200 yards for now... just develop your load and test at 100 yards. It makes everything easier... your going to be using your dope and/or reticle as a reference when you get out to 500-600 anyways. The key is to have a definitive target when group testing use the exact same point of POA and concentrate on your technique. I use these types of targets when group testing. I aim at the corners of the solid squares aligning my vertical / horizontal grid lines. This 5 shot group was a Nosler 55BT load pushed with H335 at 100 yards, it included the cold bore shot. The caliper reading was just for reference at the time I took the picture on the range, final measurement was .231 MOA

If that is a Dillon die, it's warrantied for life.

I have tried doing the expander ball in the past and found the Lyman M die does a much better job of giving more consistent neck tensions when processing my brass. Just setting the M die to where it just expands the neck and not to bell the mouth for BT bullets. When processing for flat base bullets you adjust for a slight bell. Either significantly eases required seating force.

You asked for help, so I'll be blunt... until you get a supply of decent once fired LC brass. I would stop wasting powder and effort. You want a 650 yard load which you'll be pushing on the upper extremes in regards to case pressures. FC is decent .223 commercial brass but for your intended application I would not use it. I also noticed you had another thread in regards to some bullet impression issues you were having. I recall you stating your loading on a 650, what sizing dies and what trimming method are you using?

The absolute worse thing you can do when developing a load is rush... if you don't have the 100/200 range you need available, the time you need to properly test for groups is wasted... hold off and wait. Make time later, right now you have a bunch of arbitrary data that frankly is not usable. I would suggest starting from scratch, beginning with your case prep.... sorted LC brass all the same head stamp if possible. Full length size and trim to minimum. Load 5 rounds each at 0.3 increments. Looking at you pictures and notes, you definitely skipped an accuracy node probably a low and high one. What powder are you actually using for these?

What choke are you running? I just tested these https://www.midwayusa.com/product/586260/federal-premium-vital-shok-low-recoil-ammunition-12-gauge-2-3-4-1-oz-truball-hollow-point-rifled-slug-box-of-5 the day before yesterday. Perfectly acceptable groups at 50 yards out of my M3K. Liked the Fiocchi's as well but the reliability of cycling sucked.

I have owned 2 SDBs, loaded 5 different calibers with them and if your can live with the restrictions that it is a straight wall pistol only set-up. For that package and price I say get yes. You can't buy a used SDB for less than $280 much less that set-up. The SDB is no slouch when it comes to production if ergonomically set up. I could easily crank out 400-500 an hour of 9mm. The 650 however will do 800-1000 an hour, has standard industry dies so is more versatile. The nice thing about the SDB is the small footprint and if you maintain it properly very reliable.

OAL around 2.290 - 2.300, honestly I don't recall because I measure off the ogive.

I run a 69g Nosler Competition HPBT in my 3Gun AR for long distance stages. I use standard metal GI mags with those loads because you can load them longer than when using PMAGS.

Agree with JJ, HOS isn't the best lube for progressively loading rifle IMO. I use Dillon lube and tumble it off after sizing and trimming. I use it sparingly for pistol though and would never load without it after years of using it noting it's benefits. I don't remove it again noting that I use it sparingly. IF I were to use it for rifle, and wanted to remove it. I would tumble it off in untreated dry media.

Keep in mind that powder charge to velocity is not linear. You can easily reach a point of diminishing returns and not know it. 0.3 is a good spread.

Personal experience, bad idea using velocity at your initial indicator when developing loads. I work up for accuracy first, then if all goes well check and see if the velocity is acceptable, move to the next accuracy load if required. All guns are different and velocities given in manuals can be very ambiguous. What point is an economical load if the accuracy is unacceptable?

You could go with a rifle buffer with a mid-length gas system. Personally, my experience has been that it doesn't get you any real noticeable improvement. I would get a LW BCG, adjustable gas block and reduced buffer weight/spring first.

Your local, hardware store or auto parts place will have them. I broke one a couple years ago and acquired a new one with 2-3 spares, never broke another one since. Go figure?

Get The Franklin Arsenal if you want to wet tumble. I had a Thumbler, it works but hold much less and is a PITA to use in comparison to the FA which I switched to. I usually do all my brass cleaning in the summer months when the sun is out. I deprime my rifle brass only, 9mm I don't bother. I do several lots over a week when I know the weather will be consistently warm and sunny. I leave the brass on a old beach towel on the ground in the yard and walk away getting a few thousand cases of each done at a time, mainly concentrate on getting the rifle done so I can process it all over the winter. I don't know why people complain about separating pins, it takes very minimal effort using a media separator. I don't even have to touch the brass.

I was going to suggest this myself. I would be especially concerned tuning the sizing decapping and primer shuttle/seating stationse. Even running manually, If a sucked up primer gets past station one it's a pain in the butt. Only now after my second season with it would I even contemplate running a AmmoBot or other drive unit. Then again, I would personally get a Mr. Bullet feeder first, but my budget and current requirements don't justify it as RippinSVT's does.

PRO-TIP: If you are really concerned about the cam over, you can simply remove 0.050-0.010 from the base of the die using a mill file or sanding disk . I do this with all my dies but have a machinist buddy do it on a lathe. I still set my sizing die up with a minimum amount of cam over, just so I know that I haven't short stroked the machine.