Boxerglocker

Looks terrible... what gun is it for? Those belt loop would seriously concern me.

OAL is dependent on the weight/shape/ogive of the bullet used. Generally, the heavier bullets have the broader ogives thus require shorter OAL to chamber. Of course in some cases it can just be the gun itself is short throated like the CZs are known to be.

I went to from being way over OCD about round counts and carrying individual ammo boxes to just using these http://www.tuffproducts.com/4097-tuff-3-gun-ammo-bag-set-of-3/ I put all 3 in a large plastic ammo can to carry on my cart if raining, on good dry days just lay them on top of my range bag withing the cart. I really like that I can keep the corresponding mag loader in the pistol/rifle (Red/Blue) ammo bag so it's always there when I need it. In the shotgun (Black) bag there is plenty of room for shells plus throwing in my extra caddies when not needed. I preload a couple of pistol and rifle mags prior to leaving home and usually have 200 pistol, 200 rifle and 125 shot shell in bags. I carry heavy shot, slugs and buckshot in the bottom of my range bag or ammo can as needed for the match.

The OP was questioning the bridge issues with Varget, you can get Varget performance with better metering using RL15. Though I would not use it other than for possibly a high velocity 52 or 55 varmint load in my bolt gun, you can find previously published data in Lee manuals.

http://www.alliantpowder.com/products/powder/reloder15.aspx

Switched to RL-15 works well with the Dillon powder measure.

Good to know about the replacement P/N. I purchased a box or 10-12 a while back and still haven't gone through 1/2 of them.

Have you used all three sides of the blade? I just saw the link to the blades you are using. Those coated ones are horrible, dull very quickly. I get about 10K per a side of each Dillon blade before I change. Other than the Dillon ones best replacements I have found are blades that come from McMaster Carr and are a TP-41 General Purpose uncoated C5 carbide insert (#3289A81)

I've said this numerous times... if you don't gauge you sized brass before loading, you can't make a determination that its actually the brass that is the problem.

I was going to say the same... these days many are not aware that the modern generations of Glocks actually have more case support than many other manufacturers in the market.

I load 9mm on a 1050 as well and normal to me is 0.003-4. I took a page out of measuring on the ogive from rifle and actually got a 9mm comparator piece to measure OAL off the ogive in order to verify. There I'm at a 0.001-2 variance with mixed brass.

What he is saying is if you do the math. 1.5" AT 60 YARDS... Isn't even close to you guesstimate that you have a 2 MOA gun/load. It's more like 3 MOA. I personally wouldn't bother moving forward with load development if I could not get a load to group inside 1 inch at 60 yards. I've never have that issue though cause I always make time to access a 50/100/200 yards range. Provided you rifle is capable, using a 1-6 isn't a problem for shooting gun load groups if you use the appropriate target (2 inch shoot n-c) and either bag or temporarily attach a bipod to your gun. CFE223 gives it's best accuracy and carbon fouling properties at 27g or greater. Personally, if you wanted to use a low charge that gives good accuracy pick a different powder, for example 24.5g TAC with a 55 Horandy FMJBT would likely be pretty good in your gun based on what you say it can do with 77smks/RL15.

I use a Lyman M die in my .223 processing on the 1050. In pistol though in the various calibers I have run on Dillon machines, I don't see the point. Especially if you are using a EGW undersize die then uniforming with a "M" you are working the brass to extremes.

It would really help if you actually called out your station die positions. I assume your loading .223?

I process all my brass the exact same way for every type of .223 round I load. My 3 Gun ammo whether is be 55g sub 300 yard ammo, 69g 300-600 yards or my varmint / precision bolt gun. I decap first... wet tumble and dry... then lube, size and trim... followed by dry tumbling in corncob and a little nu-finish. The only difference in brass processing between my loads is whether or not some of the brass is sorted out by head stamp and whether or not I add a chamfer (either by hand or with a "M" die) depending on the bullet profile I'm using (Example: 55 Vmax for varmint loads, 75-77 heavy precision loads). 55g FMJBT 3gun is mixed, 69g FMJBT 3Gun and practice precision is all LC, all my precision bolt brass for matches is Lapua.

I agree TAC isn't a good powder for 77 -90g bullets however, we are talking 3GUN rifle loads here... specifically for 68-69g bullets and if you look into those circles. You'll find many that prefer that load. You can easily load sub MOA ammo with TAC and 69 SMKs or in my case Nosler Competitions which is more than acceptable for 3GUN.

Thanks for the heads up on Extreme Reloading and the free shipping code. There were 4 or 5 small Dillon items I had on my wish list for a while and finally got them ordered. I looked at KrakenPop too but it appears they mark up all the Dillon items rounding off to the next higher dollar amount and along with that my same order from Extreme Reloading would be an additional $17 shipping.

I personally don't like the idea of wet tumbling after trimming to "peen" burrs, under the magnifying glass the case mouth becomes uneven. I decap and wet tumble prior, lube and the run brass through the 1050. Tumble of the lube in dry corncob with a little Nu-finish. I run a RT1200 on my 1050 (Used the same setup on my 650 prior, Dillon Sizer decapper, swage, RT1200 and then a Lyman M die set to slightly bell. The RT1200/1500 cut very clean and consistently provided you use a good blade. The M die opens up the necks to back of and uniform neck tension, the bell makes it easier to seat bullets and ensures no shaving. I personally prefer using both a Dillon sizer and the RT trim dies together, rather than a universal decap, followed by the trim die.

Very true, neck tension is everything. Over taper crimping can actually decrease neck tension. The ONLY crimp that actually prevents set back is roll crimping as used in revolvers.

Looking at this picture I would do this.... does it matte which slot you hand place a shell in? If not, I would mark each shell plate slot with a price of tape and a number. Load a few and see if the misalignment is consistent with the same slot.

It has on occasion but very minimal. In all honesty I only went to the U-die because on an unrelated issue and it was a prize off a table somewhere. The XL650 I have is a very tight running machine with a shell plate bearing mod and threaded and locked down tool head.

I have run the same 9mm EGW die on my 1050 as my 650 with very minimal issues. Most of the time it's me short stroking the press. You have to remember the gaining the benefit of the EGW die in a smaller case diameter, you lose reliability in respect to keeping the process speed.

My suggestion would be to first insure the shell plate is tightened down enough to reduce any play and load all the stations with dummy rounds raise the ram, loosen the dies and re-torque in order to center them in their bores. Then look at the case feed shuttle ensure that the triangular block hasn't slipped back.

Anyone gotten a Stoeger P3000 pump to play with yet? Seems like a really inexpensive way to get into HM. Just add a extension tube and go. the receiver looks to have a lot of mass to profile for deuces or quads. http://www.stoegerindustries.com/p3000-pump-shotgun

I just barely do, helps placing bullets by hand your uniforming the neck anyways to 0.221 just opening up the mouth a little to 0.222 doesn't hurt. I normally run only BT bullets but on occasion come across some flat base Vmax or other brand cheap and want to load them up. This way all my brass is ready.