Boxerglocker

The 7/8's run 100% in my M3K. Have you done any performance mods to your M3K to run low velocity slug/shot?

They EGW is at the minimum of SAMMI specs and if cut using chamber reamers. I use a the EGW (7 hole) and if they do not pass double check using a Dillon.

Thanks Tom, Glad to see you back. I called Stoeger last Monday and they said they would get one out to me ASAP but as of Saturday still hadn't receieved it. I ordered a spare Benelli inertia spring along with a extractor, spring, pin combo for the bolt. I was a bit surprised to hear from so many that no one had ever seen an inertia spring fail like this one did, yet speaking to Joe at Stoeger warranty it was like no big deal. I even offered to send the bad one back so they could test or have thier veendor test it and they declined.

Firstly, apologize for the long winded post but just want to give the full story. I just my Stoeger M3K in early February. Haven't made any mods other than I took the OEM tube off and went with the Carbon Arm 8 plus 4 extension, during the install gave the entire gun a thorough clean and lube. I've gone through about 250 rounds of heavy loads for break in and during the break in process I would take it apart, clean and inspect for wear patterns, re-lube and assemble about every 50-75 shots. I started with 50 high brass, then 125 standard games loads, 50 or so lighter 1200. I even shot some light 1145 velocity stuff which would eject but didn't cycle the next shell reliably but used then for some trap rounds so no issue. Lastly, I shot about 6 rounds of S&B buckshot for patterning and 20 slugs through it, B&P targets which wouldn't cycle at all and some Fiocchi 7/8 which were initially 8 of 10 reliable. So on to this past Sunday I shot a 10 stage all shotgun match with it and realistically wasn't expecting it to be 100 percent, especially with the slugs. I just figured it will just continue in the break-in process. All the shot ammo I used was 1255 velocity, 1-1/8 oz, 3-1/4 gram, #6 shot Winchester game loads. Throughout the day I put about 220-230 rounds through it, including slugs and buckshot. The first 3 stages it mechanically ran perfectly, at the forth stage it has one FTE so I sprayed more lube on the rails and up to the second to last stage it ran fine again. Stage 9 was mostly slugs so with the Fiocchi I took it with a grain of salt. Then the last stage, 1 slug to start at 90 yards and a 32 round hose fest. I nailed the slug target first shot which even cycled and chambered the second which I racked out as it was not needed. That's where the wheels fell off.... at least 6-7 FTE's Packed up the gear went home it was a long day... figured it was just a combination of a hot, dusty day and gun that need more break in. Well, went to work today, get home and proceeded to tear the M3K apart for a clean and lube.... found this. Inertia spring broken into 3 places WTF! Anyone every heard of this happening? I'm not beefing on Benelli/Stoeger I understand that springs sometimes just fail. I'm just wondering if there is something I missed?

I don't think it will work Larry. The base profile is completely different on the 650, needs different side plates. If I had to do it again I would get a Inline Fabrication Mount. In fact if you get a 650 and want to save a few bucks I'll sell you my 650 strong mount cheap and get a Inline for mine

In a bolt gun? I've NEVER needed to bump the shoulder back on bolt gun brass fired out of my rifle. I use new Lapua brass and get 5 firings neck size only prior to anneal and full length sizing and trimming.

If money is no object. Super 1050 especially with calibers that may have crimped primer pockets 9mm, 45 ACP and more recently.40 S&W

Did you loosen or remove the platform? You might need to at least check the alignment. If it's off, loosen it all up, realign with the Dillon alignment tool inserted through your powder die and primer system bore.

I would not necessarily steer the OP away from starting on any particular press even a XL650. If you have the aptitude and mechanical inclination to learn. It's possible especially if you stick with one caliber to start. A Mark 7 automated Super 1050? No chance I would recommend that. I own both and had a very high degree of mechanical experience working in the aviation industry getting started in reloading. I would have never started on a Super 1050 a XL650 yes.

Way over priced and extremely over rated. MSC sell replacement blades much cheaper. The easiest thing is to just back the handle off slightly to allow the chips to break free and then push down again for the final cut.

I have that same Konus spotting scope do this exact same thing for sighting my 3 gun rifle.

You will be good clearing the trim at 3/4 of an inch. You could actually go 3-4 inches or more depending on the handle length adjustment. Mine is now in a 4 inch Inline Fabrications riser but you can see the original mounting holes on my bench were.

Great idea, but honestly haven't had many issues with the case feeder, especially since adding my Inline Fabrication 4 inch riser ultramount. It removed any flex off the benchtop by increasing the foot print. I'm planning a new larger bench for this summer though and will definitely plan ahead for bracing both casefeeders.

Tom S. is correct. Pro Tip get a torch out and heat the wire mounted on a vice makes it much easier. Also if you have any tool marks from pliers or your vice jaws, polish them out with fine sandpaper and a little rogue on a dremel polishing wheel.

Your correct my bad.... mistaken identity.

To each his own, but I have had a race and washers kit on my XL650 for years. Removed 1 1/4 coils from the detent ball spring, keep the track that the detent ball rides on under the shellplate lightly greased. I can snug the shellplate bolt down completely and back it off 1/8 turn, then lock it down. The secret is getting the eject wire bent right, it takes some trial and error but once done runs extremely smooth.

Hornady lock rings do not work on a 650. The entire tool head is removable. I have a standard Dillon strong-mount on my 650 and Inline fab mounts for my 1050 and recently got one for my single stage. In all honestly if I had to do it all over again. I would get a Inline Fabrication ultra mount for the 650, with the quick change feature even if I did not have a second press to use it on at the moment.

What about elevation Pat? How do you get it adjusted after installation, if you should change slugs? What front sight is that?

So question as to what options are out there for a rear sight? I see a few guys getting the rail dovetailed and using a XS rear, which I like. But how is windage adjusted? My Stoeger M3K arrived, Carbon Arms tube is here as well.... heading to the mad gunsmith later this week for install of the tube and enhancements.

I gave up on extruded powders in a Dillon powder measure.... what is the point if your +/- even 0.1-2 the inconsistency does not justify using Varget, N140. Might as well use TAC or H335 at least you know your gonna get a accurate drop and can count on the load consistency.

Have a look at TPS rings, I have their rings and bases on both my 700s. Very solid have and have a unique design feature that allows you to mount your scope very easily. http://swfa.com/34mm-C2718.aspx

Appreciate the insight, the Xrail or Carbon Arms monotube it's frankly a lot more than I am budgeting for, though I do see the design advantage. The more I think about it I believe that I'll just go with the Nordic kit through you folks at MOA and pick up one of your followers as well. I was going to call you folks to ask if you had any of the TACCOM shotgun tube stabilizers in stock that I could add to my order? I read a post here stating that you folks used them on you builds and being this is a 8 plus tube think it would most likely be a good add on?

I just purchased a new Stoeger M3K to replace my JM930 for the upcoming season. Can't decide on an extension Tube. I want to go 12 with this one. The Nordic and XRail I've had before on my Mossberg and of the two like the beefier XRail kit with their follower (had too many issues with the join of the Nordic, reason it was replaced with the Xrail) but it only comes in 10 max and would have to get the 2 inch extension as well. I've been looking around and see TACCOM came out with their EXTREME EXTENSIONS which I could get in a plus 8. The Taccom looks to be as hearty as the XRail but their kit doesn't come with a follower. Anyone have some experience with the Taccom tubes? If I went that route what follower should I go with?

Vibra Prime, I load up to 9 tubes plus one in the machine casually in 10 minutes.

Totally Agree... I kept my 650 when I got my 1050. I fully process all my .223 brass on the 1050 and load it all on the 650. Once I'm done with my brass processing for the 3gun season, the 1050 is converted to 9mm for the remainder of the year.