PacMan

Same with the 12 ga after I had the bolt shaved...recoil is the same, just a little less muzzle dipping after the shot.

What a bunch of friendly shooters This is why I'd always enjoyed RO'ing the He Man match, meeting great people with guns (who can actually shoot)!!! See you all next year. HD.

See you all soon. I'll be working on one of the stages

So Trapr, if I get the bug to blow some mulas on another shotty, would you recommend a 24" over the 21" 1301?

Same goes for the AR bolt/carrier...the new cam pin doesn't show the wear pattern typically found in heavily used ARs I use synthetic oil in all firearms. The current one quartz of Mobil 1 synthetic (5/30) is on its 8th season of shooting and is only 1/2 empty...cheeep!

Sounded like you cut the spring BEFORE you install the tube! If that is the case, then yes you have an "unintended" under-powered spring! Ooops! Time to buy a new spring. Tube should be installed first, then spring, then measure the spring length outside of the tube end in the gun, then cut.

The M2 gel pad fits Nova stock just fine. I have the shortest one (1/2"?) on mine to reduce the LOP.

You're not going to notice much between 1:8 and 1:7 with bulk 55 gr FMJ. More importantly, it will be 'the' barrel you ended up receiving combined with your 55 gr load that will either shine or sux. My preference is 1:9 but haven't noticed any differences with 55 gr blitzking 3100 fps in 1:7 or 1:8, again, it is the barrel/loads combination so there is really no way to compare the twist rate in the same barrel.

Thank Kurt for bringing back the good old 'Select Slug' drill, haven't seen the need for it in many moons but this is one skill good to have in your bag. I've tried it but you need to be absolutely firm grip since you now have control of the shotty only by the 'sky hook', don't drop it . I ended up using a slightly different method when need to do select slug, sweep the bolt handle back with my weak hand and hold it back while supporting the receiver from below, reach the slug caddy with my now freed up strong hand (I always carry slugs on strong side) and bring one up, drop it in the port and then remount the gun. Not as fast as load one in the tube and shoot the bird shot round out but certainly less movement required than loading the tube, hit the shell release, then rack the bolt.

Amazing I had some of those back in the days growing up in Saigon, and shooting at these little guys with rubber bands was quite fun! Kurt hit a good point that you've got to have fun with what you're doing. As terrible as I do sometime at these matches, still fun to be there cuz I get to see friends I've made over the years.

So that's how Mr. Weak Hand and his elusive bro got so damn good...playing with green army men !!!

I agree with Mark on this one. It used to be mid-long range rifles and shotgun loading skills combined with physical fitness that could carry a lousy pistol operator like me . Not anymore, with so many damn good pistol shooters in the 3 gun arena, and many matches had to make short and fast stages to keep up with the demand for slots in the match, you have to be very good with the pistol in order to stay competitive. A 5 seconds penalty in a 30 seconds stage is a huge bust in one's standing. But then again, what's 'competitive' in one's mind defines the needed level of dedication.

Unfortunately, that spirit has been infected by a virus called "ninja-socialism" since 2008... Regardless of how they play, Armalite is still on our side IMO.

Auto comes in handy if you have to shoot prone. Otherwise a properly reworked Nova is extremely quick, just ask the guys who are running RNT's Novas

Amen my friend! Had that same discussion here years ago when USPSA wanted to get in the 'game' and we witnessed the birth of 'Outlaw 3-G' matches. ...Of course, this thread is drifting into the abyss

Ah...those were the days, we had 3 gun matches just about every 2-3 weeks, from north to south of the front range. Over the years, match sponsors came and gone, but I'm glad JP stayed with us To the OP, just buy what you want and come shoot. The price for Armalite 3 G is pretty reasonable and it is much better than just a good start. I would change out the muzzle device to one of the high efficiency brakes most talked about here in this forum.

Hey If I can finish the match with a 308 AK, anyone can I'll be back...

Glad you got in Kurt! Somehow this reminds me of SW airline check in....

Old scope + Nikon rings = no issue. New scope + Nikon rings = Same problem as New scope + PEPR Therefore: 1) PEPR mount IS NOT the problem. 2) New scope may be the problem. 3) Or your rifle is the problem. Most obvious thing to check the 'home built comp' - Take it off and shoot with a naked muzzle to see if the problem goes away.

Concur! Light mod for everything since then, up until Midwest 3g came up with those d@mn 4" square plates hiding among "no shoot" pistol plates . Just like shooting a short range rifle stage with 12 ga

By the way, is that stock cut down? Does RNT use the stock recoil pad for the Nova SS? Thanks No the stock wasn't cut down. I thought about cutting off 1", glue in some dowels and screw on another pad but I didn't want the hassles before He Man match this year so I tried the 3/4" comfort tech pad from my M2. Snapped right in and gave the Nova same length of pull as my M2 with the 1/2" pad. It appeared Nova stock is slightly shorter than M2 comfort tech stock to begin with.

Proved the point that a compensator (brake) does not have to be pricey to work efficiently. After the basics of blast diverting baffles, some vertical jet nozzles (to help counter the muzzle rises), and perhaps a gas expansion chamber (as used in Surefire MB556k, Benny's RT), the rest of the cost goes to materials/metal treatment. More complicated design = higher cost.

That is a cool looking Nova! Thanks! RNT did the "engine's hot-rodding" work and paint job is home-brewed. I figured the best way to spot my shotty on pre-load table full of black Novas is to give it a Krylon's OD Green

Fastest Nova ever!!! 10+1 of 12 GA power

Since you limited it to sub $150, then the JP original kit is the best bet. Need to get JP speed hammer with it to optimize the result but that can wait later if cash is tight. You got two set screws to adjust, if you don't go all the way to the optimal edge of sear engagement then probably wouldn't need to worry about timing the disconnector. Otherwise the disco will need a little fine tuning by filing the hook. See JP instruction video and go slow. The only thing you can ruin if not careful would be the $5 disconnector. With that said, I recommend wait and save up more coins, at 200 - $250, your options would be much wider. The JP EZ kit has everything you need for a simple single screw adjustment + an adjustable safety. Or you can just buy a drop in Timney 3.0 for $230 and call it done.