EkuJustice

exactly. On the ones that are reloadable you dont have to hit it in hard to seat it. On the ones that they say are say 20 rounds not reloadable you could reload it and 20 but will have to seat it very firm. Drop it down to 19 and it would load easy and fast.

That is assuming the FP safety is even in the gun which unlike production in USPSA is not required in 3 gun. The trigger safety prevents the trigger fom moving on a glock the same as the grip safety on a 1911. On the glocks, they also do not check to make sure the trigger safety which is considered the primary safety actually is engaged when a glock is abandoned. All it takes is adjusting the pretravel withoout modifying the trigge safety and it dosent go out far enough to engage or even running the heavy trigger spring with a light striker spring can cause it to not go forward all the time.

If all it said was a reload was required and I was shooting a limited or Open gun I would have gamed the heck out of it. I would shoot all 8 pieces of steel, both paper targets then at my leisure reload my gun, then unload and show clear. Reload was then completed totally off the clock and would be correct according to the stage description if it did not say after first shot and before last shot. If it said after first shot and before last shot and they were all set up in a row etc and the ammo was avaliable I would do the same as before shooting all the targets and then reload the gun and the second the mag was seated set the round off down range. We shot a stage like that before and that was what the vast majority of the people did with the ammo after they saw it done once as there was no need to stop with one target left, reload then have to engage it when you were right there anyway. Remember if you see a hole they left in the stage never ask if its allowed before the shooting starts as it gives someone time to change the stage layout or write in some additional stuff on the COF stage description. Simply smile, keep your mouth shut and do it and prepare to explain the error and how your way satisfied all parts of the rulebook and COF after your done doing it

The grip safety is going to be disactivated while you're holstering, so this doesn't seem like a good analogy. A grip safety on the 1911 does not block sear movement or really do anything to prevent the sear from slipping off the hammer hooks. It merely keeps the trigger from moving. The grip safety is not a safety and I would not allow it to "count" for gun abandonment. The thumb safety is the only safe way to make a loaded single action pistol safe. So how is a glock trigger safety any different? It simply prevents the trigger from moving and does not block the striker from moving. On a glock as they say the trigger safety is the primary safety is ever checked in a match to ensure it functions every time? It is not hard to bipass that either intentionally or unintentionally by removing too much pretravel without adjusting the safety and even certain spring combinations prevent it from working all the time.

For the upper, pretty much any complete(with the bolt assist and door installed) or stripped lower will work just fine.

I would go either the racer(if you never plan on using it for another gun) or the racemaster(has interchangeable blocks for different guns). That holster is extremely secure. I was a little concerned about the race holster at first till I looked at the racemaster. If I have any start other than a stand and draw start, ie sitting in chair, laying on "bed" etc I flip the lock on and disengage it with the middle finger on the draw as its right there. When the holster is locked, the gun is NOT coming outand is more secure than Kydex. When unlocked, it has to come pretty much straight out from the holster.

if pulled over and questioned about tint let him test it IF he has the equipment to do so which most don't.

Look forward to it. Dan left some pretty big pants um shoes to fill and your definitely doing a good job of filling them

It will have a new serial number on the frame. No reason you couldnt as they are replacing the frame with a new frame.

If your worried about mounting and epoxying it in check with carver as he can install them very reasonable

I say leave it as is is its not hurting anything. You could also send it to glock with the factory parts ie no upgraded trigger parts or they wont come back and if its warrenty is free if not its like 43 bucks for a replacement frame

is that a 26 or 28 inch barrel?

depends on the feel you like. The 147s feel softer with more of a push. The 115s are more of a snap. The 124s are and even the 135 are a good medium.

The Federal 4packs are fine for the cheap ammo. I would avoid the winchester 4 packs as they tend to have more problems. If the rounds cycle you gun use them. If your missing shots, its not the fault off the ammo as even the cheap 4 pack ammo performs fine for what we are shooting if the shooter does their part

wonder their logic on the no flight control

Use the Jager ones in mine. Avoid the lone wolf as there have been numerous reports of them breaking ALOT

There are always going to be people talking bad about every company out there. Bobby does quality work and stands behind his products. If you have any concerns about something said then I am sure Bobby would be able to give the other side of the story as well. Having seen work he has done on mine as well as several full builds, his guns run and look as good as any other custom builder out there.

Found a nice stock of Federal Small pistol match so Im now stocked.

cmore

thats the benefit of SPP 45 brass no need to change

On a very tight shot I would take buck shot every time as I know how to shoot the shotgun and know where it patterns and the buckshot patterns TIGHT

Bobby does good work. The trubor really isnt the "base" of the gun as the gun is built from the ground up on an sti frame not off a base gun. Like alot of the custom builders, the gun can be built the way you want it. He has done some work for me on my limited gun and I have seen some of his other guns and they are nicely done.

It's not too bad of a gun for lim 10. If you want throw a magwell on and your pretty much at what most lim 10 guns are

i use a .115 all black front on mine. It really is all preference. I like a little wider than some as for me it takes less time to align as If I can see the sight in there it is centered enough

the bottom is fine the front is where you need to watch especially if you ade it slimmer, reprofiled etc as the front is where the holster catches the fun