EkuJustice

Was your factory bushing bad and required a new one

There is a sight picture with a red dot it's what you need to see to hit your target. The less you throw out there for them to do at once the better. Put the dot on the target and slow smooth trigger pull and don't let the dot move is easier than center the front in the rear notch And put the front on the target but look at the front sight not the target and pull slow and steady. What that will end up with is a confused kid at that age pulling the trigger for a bang. The dot definitely promoted better trigger control and for a kid especially it's just more fun which is the goal.

For limited major Im shooting for 173, for SS/production Minor I am shooting for 135. For open I am in the 179-180 range I am never worried walking up to the chrono like several I have seen are that cut it way too close

I will disagree with irons for new shooters especially with kids. You are putting soo much stuff out there at once get a good grip pull the trigger smooth. Make sure you have your sights lined up but watch the front sight and not the target etc. With a red dot it allows them to have less to deal with and concentrate more on the shooting. It also allows for more success early on which is more fun which means they are more likely to stick with it. Reactive targets are also a good way to work with them such as balloons as it's nice to see it break and know ya hit it over just looking for holes on a piece of paper.

Stippling is allowed in production

Get a 24 and a longer tube. There really is no benefit to a 21 since the 8+1 max basically went away which is when the 21 became popular. I wish they would bring it out a 26 or 28 inch barrel

I'm a trigger slapped on the hosing stages

The Main spring dosent do enough to really be noticed for the trigger but it dose effect how the gun handles

Nice looking stuff but Way over priced for what it is. Even a custom glock is gonna feel crude next to a custom 1911

9 major here

I usually run a mag big enough to finish with no reload needed. For an oh crap mag holder I liked the One my brother stole from me that was for the back horizontal bullets down. I don't think I have had a reload off the belt yet unless it was mandatory. For mandatory reloads I like bullets forward with a straight 20downloaded to 18 as it indexes like a pistol mag

Race master

I run a 9 pound recoil and a 17 pound main spring in mine. I would stick with a 17 pound main as a 15 may give light strikes especially with the factory hammer. If you want a lighter trigger pull, a trigger job is what you need to improve the trigger as a simple main spring swap doesn't do much at all. Most people will run recoil springs between 8 and 10 pounds depending on preference

Is it the same load or loaded to different specs. If it's the same load chrono it once

Decent stuff. The stripped upper and stripped lower have the least to do with accuracy. A good barrel and a good bolt do though which is what I would look for in a built upper

Like was said earlier, trash the Barrel only and keep the rest. Once the barrel is gone its not an illegal weapon.

Depends on how the gun recoils. If it recoils up and right which is common for a right handed shooter the turning the comp helps

1230 to 1 o'clock

From the stock end. The go from non ejection port side to the ejection port side. Look at your pins. One side should look bigger if they are tapered. Not all manufactures use tapered pins. What I use is a very short pin punch as more or less a starter punch to get them going then use a regular punch to get them out. They may be very tight.

Any if the low profile ones work just fine or you can take a cutoff wheel and cut the front sight tower off then grind it to shape like the bushmaster optics ready gun has It's not that hard to remove and swap but the pins may be in there right in the front sight

Its not predicting the location and spot shooting as much as having an idea what to expect in the wind etc. Foot position and breakpoints are key in doubles especially on 4. When I shot 4 doubles, with the high first my foot position was right across the front of the pad. I had basically no swing to the right of the center stake as I didnt need it. I broke the high one about 2/3-3/4 from the house or so then picked up and and broke the second one about the same place. If the wind picked up and I NEEDED to track it farther, i had a perfect swing all the way out to the out of bounce stake. On my 4 doubles with the low first, I had my feet on the left side of the bad straight along the pad for the same reason as the high. I had a perfect break point location for the low one and on the high one I had enough swing to go all the way to the out of bounce incase of wind. Timing is Key especially on the first shot as depending on where you break it can set you up for an easy or a hard second shot. If its broke at the center stake your playing catch up. If its broke WAYYY early then you are almost waiting for the second shot. Alot of your top guys are basically breaking both targets in the same location

Mine all drop free

The plastic front or the aftermarket front

Nope I am not the OP. I was referring to the reason that people are not using Moly/lead bullets in open is they do not want to make PF with less powder as your giving up the gas that that extra powder produces to help work the comp. While you have to clean any comp the lead bullets will make one clean the comp a lot more often and its a chore to remove. Being the glocks are aluminum you cant use the easy way to clean lead out of an item like you can with stainless

I don't want an increase in velocity for a lower charge. I want a high charge weight that makes more gas which means the comp works better. I also don't wanna clean lead out of the comp. loading for open guns is. Nothing like working up a limited load