EkuJustice

It depends on the stippling. Check out mod1 or cold bore custom. Both do very subdued stippling that are not awful looking and look good on the gun.

For that price get a hyperfire as it's a much nicer trigger and very little extra. For a cheaper trigger get a qms trigger for like 45 bucks cut the spur off the hammer and add jp springs and a pretravel replacement grip screw. Gets it around 3'pounds

I like the Dawson here as I can use whatever grips I want and the insert is remove able for when it gets beat up

Use red on mine and degrease it properly and never had an issue on anything I have used red on

I would check out the wrs from blade tech. I am running a gcode for my 6 inch but they don't make one for the wide dust cover. The hood is Definately nice because if it's a pistol drawn right from the start I just leave it forward If there is movement I engage the hood and never have to worry about the gun coming out of the holster. I have seen too many pistols bounce out it people grabbing the gun when they run to make sure it stays in the holster that I feel a lot safer with the gun locked in the holster and I don't loose much time if any on the draw

I agree I love 45 small pistol primer brass as it means I don't have to change the primer system over and I can keep small pistol and small rifle primers and be good to go.

Adding a clamp on will change how the gun shoots so it would need a rezero after attaching it. Had one here that now sits in the old parts box

I would sent the slide off and get it cut as it's not a big issue. I would send the whole thing to carver and let him install the sjc mount lower the port and add a thumb rest.

If it's just mild steel used it's gonna get destroyed pretty quick anyway. Xm193 will do more damage due to the velocity than something like tula

That's what I used was a cheely shorty off the right

Ran one on the right side here. The issue is the top of the racker hits the cmore it's self

Where is your slide racket cut in the gun. If it's a factory gun with a cut right behind the breech face or a built gun with it farther back makes a difference

Sjc makes a vertical mount as well as the 90 degree mount. It does require 2 plates be placed in the frame though. The cr weakness isn't it bouncing off the post as much as impact to the rear of the gun on the grip can dislodge it.

Had the exact opposite results with the Spartan. Mine is the 9mm and the fit in the gun is very good and locks up solid and is a very smooth running gun. I swapped the front sight with a slimmer one due to preference. The sight cut is proprietary but Dawson is making the replacements not some no name company and most people use the Dawson sights anyway so I don't see that as a disadvantage. It does have an lpa sight over a bomar. I actually prefer the nice deep notch the factory sight provides as it's much deeper than the bomar sights etc which I like as I pick the front up faster. The finish is a little weak as a park finish but the bluing on the Trojan isn't great either and wears fast so it's not a big deal. I haven't had trouble with the nonramped barrel as mine feeds fine without it. Mine is now setup the way I want it with the Dawson front sight and magwell, mag release with Ed brown button vz grips trigger job and skate tape on front strap(not a fan of the Trojans front strap finish little traction) The cost of the gun ready to race came in less than a box stock Trojan which would still need work Run the Tripp, Dawson, and Springfield mags in it and they all run fine

For 3 gun the vast majority of the rules for tac optics Etc are 8+1 at the buzzer after that anything you can load in the tube goes. That's one reason you see a lot of long tubes on the non open guns. A longer tube simply allows you to load more for how you want to and not how you need to so if you have 3 rounds left in the gun for instance and a long move to a window to shoot 8 and then a couple steps to shoot another couple rounds with a long tube you may choose to load the extra couple rounds in that long move where with a short tube you could only load 6 then have to load a couple more in a very short distance

I say stay local or see if anyone has the tools to swap it for ya. Shipping adds up quick. And it's a very simple job. Going local or doing it yourself also allows you to clock the comp to you and your gun

Race master is aluminum and has an interchangeable block so it can be used for different guns. The racer is plastic and does not have a removable block so it can't be converted to a different brand. The racer is a little more adj also than the race master. I have the race master because I shoot an sti with a glock for a backup and simply keep the extra locking block with the gun in case I need to change guns. If your gonna use a different gun type in it the race master is nice. If your gonna use it for one gun brand only then the racer is just as good and less money. I would definitely get the racer/race master over a cr speed. Check with shootersconnection they should be able to set with a good belt. Holster belt and 2 mag pouches Racer holster 130 DAA belt 55 2 mag pouches 33 each so 66 bucks. So 251 for a good belt setup

That's why I don't cut my ss or production gun real close on weight or pf.

I keep the weight in my hand on mine. My setup is Dawson magwell with steel arched msh. Vz grips without the back hollowed out and a GI guiderod Still shoots very flat.

Is it a carver mount? If so Your options are basically keep the cr speed and the carver mount Or loose the carver and go with an sjc mount.

If it's going on a major pf open Gun I wouldn't waste my money on a clone I would buy the real deal. If it's going on something like an airsoft gun or 22 especially a backup or one I would give it a try. I run a real one on all my open guns as well as my new steel challenge 22. On my old 22 for steel when I first started out I ran a clone on an alchin mount on an old 22/45 i got for cheap and while it's not as nice as the real deal it never let me down and still sits on the gun which is more or less a backup or loaner gun

Is that weight with an empty mag?

The old series 1 guns are the nicer ones. The EARLY series II aren't too bad but still have the added safety which can cause issues in that if the part under the rear signt breaks off the gun looks to function fine and dry fires fine but will not release the firing pin. That can be removed and the gun will simply have a hole in the slide and will not be IDPA legal. The series I guns were all built like they should be with without the extra worthless safety

The older kimbers are a much nicer gun than the current production guns. A lot their custom shop higher end guns are simply cosmetic changes on the surface

The Arredondo Makes it much easier to use