muncie21

@kitestir as a CZ (TSO/TS/SPO1) fan and recent member of the 2011 limited club, your comments are resonate with me. I'm still working to determine if I like the CZ or 2011 platform better, however there is a noticeable difference between the two. BTW, if your CZ CMs or 2011 Trubor are a burden weighing you down, send me an IM and I may be able to help you out

I agree with Stick. Pick your bullet first, find the OAL for this bullet using your gun. Once this is done OAL is fixed and your only variable is charge weight. Using a chrono and visual inspection of your fired cases you'll be able to determine where to set the charge. Of course this is assuming you have a powder in mind. If you haven't selected a powder then you really have 2 variables to deal with after setting OAL, that is powder and charge. I'm developing a 9-major load. I selected a bullet, set OAL and worked up loads using 3 different powders. I'm now at the point where I'm comparing each of the loads for accuracy and dot movement. Definitely not a quick task if you're considering more than 1 powder, however I enjoy reloading and learning how different powder perform in my gun. Plus I have time as I don't plan to shoot Open this year or next.

I currently use 'Ice' by Turtle Wax with some hot water, however i believe it's been discontinued. I tried a petroleum based wax previously and ended up with a gunky mess to clean up. So didn't want to repeat that one again. No idea if carnauba based waxes would any better/worse, but no need for me to experiment as I've tumbled 10s of thousand cases using the procedure describe, with excellent results.

I think some folks are over-thinking the wet tumbling. I wet tumble (without pins) for ~90 minutes, rinse and tumble with synthetic car wax for ~15-20 min., no rinsing required. Then I lay the cases on a table to air dry for a day or three. Benefits for me: no dust very little time messing with cases (fill the tumbler, rinse and done; total time is ~3-5 minutes) No need for additional case lube or additional tumbling to remove lube Normally have several 1000 cases prepped for loading, so drying time isn't an issue No issue with (reported on internet forums) old primers being 'welded/stuck' to cases after wet tumbling.

You'll accumulate crud behind the extractor, which eventually will lead to..well extraction issues Other than that, the TSO is a workhorse not some prema donna that needs cleaned and polished on a weekly basis.

I shot mine for a full season and didn't encounter any broken parts. I had some light strikes which I wasn't able to determine if it was because of my reloads/primers or weak hammer spring. I don't think there's enough people shooting GPs to get a clear understanding of failure points, like we see with CZ guns..for example. For something like $50-60 you can order most of the small internal parts, however you likely won't be replacing most of these under the clock during a match. Since you have 2 X-cals, I'd order the small parts to keep at home and bring the back up gun as one big spare part to major matches.

When I was shooting my Xcal in USPSA production, I bought a enough internal parts to basically rebuild my pistol, these were purchased from Eagle, who were the importers of the GP at the time. Since then, I believe Global Ordnance has picked up the importation of GPs. However a quick look on their site didn't show any GP parts (aside from mags) for sale. Yes, many of the K100 parts will interchange with the Xcal. Good luck with your pistols. Your post reminds me to that I need to pull my Xcal from the safe and take it to the range one of these days.

I would spin the Dillon CS wheel again. All I use is mixed brass and don't have the issue you're dealing with.

Seems like a reasonable deal if you're looking for a 1911 style gun. If you're not stuck on 1911s, you might want to consider the CZ Tactical Sport. It was designed from the start as a competition pistol by CZ. Comes with 17-round mags that are easily upgradeable to 20, in .40

Dont get me wrong, I really enjoy my TSO. Aside from a few minor mishaps, mine have been utterly reliable. If you're using the factory adjustable sites on a .40, they will break (I've been through two of them) it's just a matter of time. This doesn't make the TSO any better/worse than other limited guns out there, they all have their weak points.

Lots of good powders out there that burn cleaner and cooler than TG. Suggest OP look into sport pistol, N320 or Prima V, just to name a few.

That's some serious droppage to flatten bullets. Most of my bullets get shipped with so much tape around the box, that even if they were dropped they box wouldn't explode.

OK, so who's the chap wearing a Glock shirt to an Infinity factory tour? I've had the opportunity to squad with Bill. Super nice guy, very analytical about stage breakdowns and you gotta love the 'sound effects' as he's walking through the stage

Alternative is to have a MIG welder handy

The difference you're seeing is because the Dillon sizes the brass slightly smaller than the Lee. Aside from visual differences, they both should shoot the same. BTW, the difference you're seeing will be magnified if you reload 9mm with 147 gr bullets. Again, the visuals don't necessarily impact the performance.

I second that, as long as it is a non-GMO pig.

I run a 135gr round nose, coated bullet (Bayou or BBI) in my 9mm TS. My OAL is pretty short at 1.08 to 1.09 range. Runs 100% with these bullets and this OAL. My PF is right at 135'ish.

Unless you're enamored with Dillon resizing die why not switch to a Lee, where the decapping pin releases (moves) when there's too much force. I have both setups (Dillon and Lee) both seem to work fine, however if I start breaking Jesus clips, I'm going to retire the Dillon, as the Lee is super solid and only requires the locking collar to be re-tightened if you end up trying to decap a .40 with a 9mm case stuck inside it.

The slide serrations on my Edges are functional and work fine for me. I have DVC and not so happy with the 'grip' on those serrations. Hopefully the next-gen pistols don't go the way of the previous-gen DVC.

Mine 'walks' over time. I believe when the slide is assembled there's only a certain distance the pin can come out.

Although not as easy to remove the extractor (you need to punch out the pin) as on some guns, there tends to be quite a bit of gunk behind the extractor if you haven't cleaned this area before.

And which bullet are you referring to here my friend?

For those that wear contacts but still need 'readers' you can get full lens (not just the insert at the bottom) safety glass readers on Amazon in multiple diopters/strengths. If you're handy you can even mix/match lenses to have different (or zero) magnification between eyes.

Are you running 124 or 115 gr bullets? I have loads worked up for 124 gr bullets using MP, #7 and WAC. Next I'm going to try the same powders with 115gr bullets to see which my CM (and me) likes better.

TSO length is what I'd suggest for TSO. Minor fitting may be needed, easily done with hand file. TS if you want to custom fit the grips.