biglou13

guess i'm installing u die tomorrow i got my DAA used i was getting a high percentage of failures turns out gauge was dirty... i just spray it out with air. Thanks Top

the more i read about gas block issues, and cost, i'm happy i went with adjustable gas key on last build

RobE, What powder are you planning to use for .223/5.56?

I just started using DAA gauge also... It's tighter than Wilson and Dillon cars gauge. I currently am set up on all Dillon dies. Do you think the U die really makes much difference,. I'm told the Dillon 9mm Is close to U die specs. I have one new in tube and am debating if I should put it in classifieds and just cull out known offenders. Cbc, Anguilla and, recently pierce.

I realize 1.3 is ragged edge for me. I'm not Ashamed of my times. I'm new draws, and newer to boss hanger. Today's live fire. I set par timer today at 1.8 second , I concentrated on form I was easily beating Par, seeing every shot all a's. I feel like I was getting good training, well controlled shots.. getting weak hand grip built stronger and faster, and more precise strong hand out of Holster, and prepping D/A on extension. My plan is drop par time gradually in live and dry fire. "IT". Happened a few times today. Where draw and shot went fluidly the 1.4 sec draw to shot seemed like slow motion./. Time folded.... Like I was watching from outside.

Never shot it or known anyone that has .... But they offer a no questions asked 90 day warranty. Which is huge!!! Break it in do some OCW. Find a load . If it doesnt't hold .5 MOA. Send it back. Inside of 90 days. Any other barrel that is truly match is way more dollars..... But it see above California sushi post. .47 MOA on load not tuned for barrel. I was getting sub .5 MOA on WOA. i was hoping to fine tune load but ran out of re15 and is hard to get local and switched to xbr but haven't tested xbr loads yet. I also feel like the WOA SPR barrel needed longer break in time. ( shoot a few clean repeat) prolly took over 200 rounds until it settled in.

Live fire training today avg 1.74 controlled draw to first shot at that speed 95% a zone still working on draw building weak hand grip and D/A prep while extending pulled some 1.3's. But that's my ragged edge.

1.33 newb / unrated only been drawing from holster a few weeks

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Uspsa "silhouette" target/ or idpa 5 yards ( see above) full target no concealment, but feel free to post concealed /cover garment time Thinking Uspsa - ish here, iron, FO sight any legal starting position.....

the fluted one is s bit lighter and has a "tacticool" factor to it. but your also paying for it. u then covering up fluting with hand guard ?? unsure if flutes will change the harmonics in adverse way? (but im sure you could tune a load to it) technically more surface area so barrel will dissipate heat faster.... the standard spr profile non fluted is tried and true, and i like the extra weight as a more stable shooting platform especially when you "reach out", (not so much if you have to hump it 5 miles......) from a shooting perspective and experience with precision bolt gun I prefer a bit heavier.

code worked ordered yesterday

¿¿¿What is your opinion on running both. grease and oil at same time (both mobil one)??? it's not about grease vs. oil (they both work) "cant we (they) all just get along?...." I feel like running both...... all my guns feel smoother i broke my shooting teeth with uncle sam, and it was all about breakfree (back in the day... think BDU's) as a civilian used rem oil, mp7, rem dry lube, gun butter, frog lube, basically tied and used whatever was around ..... ran mobil1 exclusively for a period got a tube of slide glide (got lifted at the range) (loved it) slide glide and gun butter were my favorites. for a short time converted to become a "greaser" ended up with mobil one grease recently got some more mobil one oil..... which leads to the question I've read about and tested grease alone and oil alone..... i haven't found many opinions real life or virtual about going "both ways" basically a light coat of grease in appropriate places.... wipe away any excess, then tiny drops with precision oiler in all the appropriate places. i also realize how well lubed my gun rags, and gun rags around the world are...... I'm not running wet nor dry but appropriate being some what frugal i also revel in the idea that for about $15 dollars i have enough "firearms" lube for 10 or more life times for me and 10 of my friends. vs. $$$$$ on "gun/fire arm" marketed lubrication.

(Working on building faster stronger weak hand grip from draw, prepping on extension) Dry fire Haiku - today's practice...... building the grip dry perfect and slow from the draw enightened speed sprouts

Thank you very much!

Draw to single / double live fire/ indoor 1.4s... 90% A's need to work on building grip especially weak hand and pepping trigger on push slow deliberate draws practiced!! liking new boss hanger.... more dry time, more blank wall

1/7 wylde i too have a white oak !!

anyone have a code or a source for free shipping on dillon 550 powder measure (part #20782)

The blue 147 flat points are less problematic. as others above I too had issues. manageable by culling out certain brass, but still had ocassional faill i will return to 147 flat points soon and permenantly.

M6 http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/67000-67999/67617.pdf

I want a 10# spring.......

When in doubt call Dave @ CGW. if I recall correctly. There used to be a short reset kit. 14m lifter, enhanced firing pin pin retainer,. And reduced hammer spring. And you have to have the SRS kit before you install CGW disco ( with firing pin block) If double action feels like 13-15 pounds. Chances are its stock hammer spring. i bought the 14m lifter and disco . But never installed. (Yet) I got over it by practicing shooting 6 hits or more on the timer staying mostly in a zone. I suggest running it as. It is do a polish job, 11.5 and/ or 8.5 hammer spring. Enhanced firing pin, spring, retainer. Reduced Trigger spring, tune a hand load for it. Shoot the mess out of it. Before swimming any deeper. I continued later to add production hammer, and f/o sights. personally I really enjoyed learning the gun before tuning it,. It exposed fundamental faults in my shooting form. And improved my skill level i also enjoyed doing most of the work myself Welcome to the club. The water is fine. And the cz kool aid ain't bad. I think I have screen shots of old Cajun web site some where, I think it made it easier to make upgrade decisions.

It's possible I'm cheap an practical. I also think it is important to have toys..... I'm using a $ 50 bill Springfield trigger job. While not the crispest break its sub 2.5#. for long range, slow fire shooting..... I think decent trigger group with good trigger control/ shooting position/ training trumps a +$ 200 trigger any day. At this point my skill level has yet to exceed the quality of my current trigger.

If you can shoot consistent sub MOA with a known load. I'm inclined to say that user error is minimal.... every bullet, and bullet velocity and barrel will will have specific accuraccy points also known as node. In a nutshell it is finding the best harmonics, that allow bullet to be more accurate. http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace.com/ocw-overview/4529824091. Be careful this could lead you to the dark side of benchrest shooting/ reloading i'd bet that if you fine tuned you load for proper bullet weight and twist rate, using quality components you should be able to get sub MOA if not better on any quality barrel. my first precision rifle went from .75 MOA to .25 moa all day long. And sub .20 on ocassion. All these results with the OCW process and METICULOUS reloading process. If you like to shoot tiny groups I suggest to read up on OCW and some bench rest like reloading procedures. Warning. This may lead you to dark side. While do have arbor press and dies I refuse to turn necks... as far as break in ...... I've only shot in a few brand new barrels.... And have found out they all need a break in period,... There is a lot of mysticism around this process... Basically frequent barrel cleaning first 100 rounds or so... My standards for AR/ m4gery are lower than precision bolt gun. I'm satisfied with MOA accuracy. And very happy with consistent sub MOA accuracy.

I haven't shot one but have thought about the principle as I understand similar devices were designed for close quarters battle. It redirects boat away from other team members and to a degree flash suppression...... Maybe using night vision..... So in this sense I think it's functional and practical thinking out loud. The gasses are slowed / redirected a it hits each opening in brake. Then I outer part redirects gases forward. (The first parts sounds similar to silencer technology. ). But I believe since front of device is open. It does not fall in to that category I still think there will be some reduction in perceived recoil because gases and speed of gasses are dampened / slowed before they are redirected but not as efficiently as " open " brake. Brakes are loud some more so than others.. And frequently more offensive to those nearby. I recently installed same brake that I have on 18 inch barrel on 16 inch barrel on new build. There is noticeable increase in feel of the "back blast" . Also this "back blast" is more pronounced in the confines of indoor range. But that's the give and take we have to accept ..... The flatter shooting the rifle, faster more accurate splits....... the louder and more offensive it is to shooter and more so people around shooter... The good news is after sometime training with it, along with double set of ear protection. Most get used to the "back blast"