MemphisMechanic

(I plan to try my hand at just such an overtravel stop at some point.) @nate89 don’t worry about messing a mag up. If you send me one or two that turn out to be overcut, I can weld them for you so you can have another go.

There’s another alternative a guy suggested to me: You have to cut down the blowback gun’s ejector flush with the lower to run a guard upper. There’s plenty of space to make that piece of steel L-shaped, so it turns forward and acts as an upward travel stop, resting on top of the magazine’s back corner. Then you could simply enlarge the window to fit. The mag release keeps the mag from sliding down, and this new piece keeps it from being able to move upward.

I doubt it’d be a problem in USPSA where you never go prone. That said, I chose to weld & relocate the window 1/8”ish higher to keep the wobble to a minimum. But doing so was simple for me; walk into the garage and flick the welder on.

WHICH BULLET IS SUPER OPTIMAL?!! <gets two pages of recommendations and orders samples of all of them>

“Moondick” ?

To put it simply: AIM YOUR SECOND SHOT AS HARD OR HARDER THAN YOU AIMED YOUR FIRST SHOT. There’s no reason not to. It’s worth just as many points, and you already knew you had a problem walking into this match. I expected some very dilibrate aiming, but instead, you’re ripping off the second round as fast as the M’s on your squad were. Of course you didn’t hit anything. I see now why you have no clue where the second round is going. Quit firing 2nd round hopers. It’s a fools errand. Get a clean sight picture first.

@Pickin $50! That’s ridiculous. $20 worth of hardware store JBweld (it dark gray, no need to dye) a few bucks in abrasive grit from my Amazon link... add some masking tape and you’re done.

@Swanny10 you hit on the massive gray area. These threads always go down this road because there’s a wide variety of views on what constitutes the “paper” part. I’d only apply that term to someone who has routinely reshot classifiers without a legitimate reason like a jammed gun. Others think setting up & shooting classifiers for practice instantly qualifies you, and I don’t. They’re simply great drills which are easy to make repeatable. But then, I’d LOVE to be a paper GM! My stand and shoot skills would be wicked, and that would mean I’d only need to focus hard on movement/entry/exit skills in order to be a well rounded shooter.

Indeed. With enough time I could have learned to prefer a crisp SA which sits motionless as you add weight until it breaks like glass at 2-3 pounds. But none of my other range guns are ever going to be 1911s or DA/SA. I’ll never carry a gun like that for defense, either. The Tanfo trigger was beautiful, but I sold it beause 1) it wasn’t the right kind of beautiful for me, and 2) I shoot a polymer gun just as fast, and shooting it accurately comes far more naturally. Tanfos are great. Walthers are great. Glocks are great. Pick one and stick with it even when the other kids at the playground tempt you with the shiny new toy on the block.

I loaded last week: 120pf 124gr FMJ 128pf 125gr coated 132pf 147gr FMJ 138pf 150gr coated I took those four loads and put three of each into a magazine for a light 27oz Walther PPQ. Did a 12-round bill drill into a berm. Shot them slower at 1 round per second. Repeated the mag dump. They all feel exactly the same. And anyone who thinks they can feel the difference between 128 and 135 PF using the same bullet and powder is most definitely fooling themselves. You guys need to calm down, find a bullet your gun shoots true, buy thousands of them, and just shoot.

Agree with the above. $30 worth of improvement. Disagree with the above. PD pin didn’t allow me to go any lighter on hammer spring; reliability with the same ammo was unchanged. Trigger is superior without bolo/titan/unica if you came from a polymer gun. If you want a “it doesn’t move until it goes bang” ultracrisp 1911 trigger? sure. But if you came from plastic, and your carry gun is plastic, that makes a Tanfo much harder to shoot. I’m weird and I prefer creep in my triggers.

I told you that in text messges so often you’re repeating it, eh? Told you that you’d like silicon carbide! I want it on everything. Except carry guns. It sucks to have skin ground off your hip all day.

Skinnymag Production. Nice! But a rock island and fix it nonstop for two years until you have replaced the entire gun and it’s got $3k into it. The locals that chose that route are totally happy. Really. Honest. ?

That would indeed work. Remove the mag catch, get the magazine in the right spot, and use a scribe to mark where to cut.

I doubt it. More likely, those are some reshooters, but far more As and Bs shooting a classifier at “balls to the wall, hero or zero” pace. I’ve done that exactly once as a midpack A class; just for fun I shot one faster than I could see, got lucky on a recklessly fast reload, and the hits were there. It was a 94ish % classifier if I recall. That approach usually doesn’t work out so well, but it is a strategy some guys stick to. Alternatively, a stage is often nothing more than several classifier arrays scattered around a bay with movement in between. If your stand and shoot skills come up? Your points shot will also improve on other stages. There’s nothing wrong with practicing your standards type skills really hard.

Also: you do have the pretravel and overtravel screws removed from the Henning until the triggerjob is otherwise finished and running 100%, right?

You don’t want to overpay for the weirdo stepchild of the Lim Pro and Stock 2?

I thought you would switch back eventually. You’ve never seemed to enjoy the CZ, in exactly the same way that I never truly adored my Tanfoglio. It’s good to know that a GM competitive at Level II and III matches... has formed the same opinion that I have. [SARCASM] But then again, Hwansik Kim went from Tanfo to polymer, and it certainly has kept him from succeeding. [/SARCASM] I think a lot of us have picked up a polymer gun after pushing hard to work well with a metal gun, and we’re finding that a Glock or Walther is every bit as competitive as a Tanfo, and the “s#!tty” plastic trigger is something I honestly shoot better than a glass-like one without a rolling break. It’s all just marketing, and pressure to run what the winners are running, and the like. The gun really doesn’t matter much. ONCE you find something reliable & accurate that fits your hand. @gilliamjc I vote you shoot your Glock and sell the steel guns. They still win a dozen chanpionships a year. Don’t shoot a metal gun just because all these other guys are.

Exactly. Polish it like crazy and change springs and a limited has a fairly good trigger. He’s got something binding or the like.

Put the factory trigger back into the gun and see what happens. Swap back to factory parts one by one until you find the culprit.

GREAT choice. (And I’ve used most of the common USPSA options harder than many.)

I have a pari of boomah hellcats. I’ve run a twelve mile obstacle course race in them. However, the insoles are cast from iron, and they hate your feet hard after 4 hours.

I bought one to use when shooting PCC. Returned to Amazon 20 days and two matches later. Audio and video were as mediocre as the price suggests, and I hate fisheye lenses for shooting sports. They make the targets look excessively small and distant, and your movment looks super slow. Went back to the bulkier, more expensive, and awesome Contour ROAM while shooting PCC, and as always I’m using pivothead glasses when shooting handgun.

Because all of us carry Optics shooters are constantly battling optics that break. Even the most durable ones out there are dying when the shooter runs 20-30k a year through their guns. I have 5k flawlessly on my Deltapoint Pro and I know eventually it’ll go down. Slide ride beats them to death, and we’re shooting minor. Lighten the slide and feed major 9 to the gun? No thanks.

Ahh. Missed that. Titegroup consistently showed almost no velocity change between 1.100” and 1.150” for me on several occasions. Most fast powders with a low case volume have not. It’s something I check when switching to a new powder. Work up my 133ish PF load at 1.125-1.155 and then shorten to 1.100” and chrono the same charge. I like knowing how OAL sensitive and temperature sensitive my load is. Solo1000, Clays, WST, and Titegroup? Off the top of my head... all of those have been great at not caring about shorter OALs. At most, any of those picked up 1.5-2.0 power factor. Proceed with caution of course, but I personally am comfortable with shorter loads and standard charge weights.