MemphisMechanic

The shadow 2 is much closer to a tanfo in size. The original 75 frames feel tiny after you’ve been shooting a Tanfo. You’ll love one with thicker grips, the size of the factory wood ones.

It runs standard 5.56 springs in those locations, correct? I’ll pick up some and install preventatively. Keep an extra pair as spares.

The Glock.

The standard 5” has less slide weight and can be cut deeper than a Q5 for a dot by a considerable margin. Unless you want to go back and forth between irons and a dot with one gun, there’s no reason to buy a Q:

Of course, there is that one oddball.

Yes they are. It’s simply a widebody 1911 that takes fat magazines.

Nope. Even a GM has a better speed on any given drill in dryfire, than in live fire. How do you get a consistently reliable 1.2 -1.3 draw in live fire on match day? Get really good at doing it in 0.9-1.0 in dryfire. Kind comes right back to that whole “speed mode” vs “match mode” thing.

JP bolt. Easiest way to ensure your gun is boringly glock-like reliable is to ensure everything that moves is JP. I am certain other brands can run great. But I’ve seen locals have either rare or extremely common issues with the other major brands. I’ve never seen a JP bolt group be the source of someone’s issues, as long as you arent beating the firing pin to death. Put a JP trigger in it. The hiperfire needs the heavy springs for the lightest pull and it blasts the firing pin like mad. Otherwise they’re great, but JPs run and run without that issue. Safe “super reliable” build: QC10 reciever set. JP BCG and trigger. Buffer system and barrel you prefer. I handled a smoke composites handguard this weekend. Very night and very light. But you better like a small handguard; its nearly as small as the cardboard tube at the center of a paper towel roll.

For those with normal hands, magpul K2. Great grip. Vetical. Cheap.

Just fill the inside with tungsten and enjoy. External weights are meh.

Build a 6 inch gun with a long 4-port comp. I wanna see you out there with a handguard off a PCC.

@IHAVEGAS has it. Sure they’re slightly different. But I thought for a long time that a small frame would have a CZ SP-01 Shadow sized frame, and large would be much bigger. Much like a 9mm Glock versus a 10mm or 45ACP. Large vs Small tanfo isn’t like that at all. Small differences.

You figure that stuff out in live fire. Then make it habitual in dryfire. Same with transitions. You’ll never learn to do a .20 transition in dryfire. Your mind has to learn that it’s easy to index on the next target much faster than you thought possible. With real live bullets.

So that they can get one of their biggest sponsor’s guns into matches generating publicity & revenue earlier. Duh.

Do it yourself with their SDI. It takes an evening with a sharpie, a high quality hand file, and some patience. But it makes a massive difference, and it’s actually very easy. For USPSA purposes, go with a better optic with a larger window than the RMR. For defensive purposes the RMR is great though.

Shooting slow for groups = accuracy mode Shooting as fast as you can go = speed mode shooting the maximum pace that lets you get good hits, fast, 10 times out of 10? Match mode. Usually around 90% of however fast you can go in speed mode.

Young whippersnappers need safe spaces. I told you, just stay off his lawn.

@RJH no. Sarge is just a cranky old man. Stay off his lawn with your 9mm carbine.

Neat trick. My C.O.gun may get the same treatment!

Read the whole thread. They’re making frames in house, in the USA, again.

In a hammer fired gun you need to ensure you’re burying your primers. A glock will eat CCIs as long as they aren’t sticking up. Flush is good. A Tanfo with a light hammer spring will not. I had to be highly meticulous to get ammo to fire in DA with CCI primers. I ended up running an Xtreme Medium hammer spring, which added 1 pound to double action over a 14# patriot spring but it ignites everything. Your primers need to be well below flush in order to fire in double action. You need to be able to catch your fingernail on them. Are you loading on a 650? If so, life is hard. I highly recommend switching to S&B or Winchester primers. With your jams? Experiment with OALs for sure. PD JHPs are the worst case scenario for feeding, with their wiiiide square mouths. I bet a nice pointy FMJ would have fed just fine. Tinker with OAL (try shorter loads too!) and test a different bullet type if needed.

@IHAVEGAS in a 1911 it probably doesn’t. I was talking factory glock vs factory glock with off the shelf ammo. I don’t know anyone who finds the G30 as punishing to shoot as a G23.

Precisely. The same reason 45 feels softer than 40: everything happens more slowly with a 45, although with a similar amount of force. Exactly.

Have your chamber reamed. I had a carbide reamer made and have cut everything I own. They’ll all take a fatnosed 147 (worst ogive ever for loading long) out to 1.150” now. Life is good. I load for feeding reliability and for accuracy. I don’t worry about what fits.

That’s gorgeous. Looking forward to seeing it in person soon.