MemphisMechanic

Thats false. Switching from plasitc to Tanfo or CZ will affect you! ...It'll make you 80% of your Glock-shooting self until you shoot a few dozen matches or devote some serious SERIOUS time to dryfire. Been there, done that.

I honestly had not noticed that, if it is happening to me. I'll try to pay more attention. I don't personally put any value on dropping a single charge onto the scale at any point, so I don't stop and pull weights during a reloading session: I take a ten drop average at the beginning, and I keep my powder measure completely full at all times. It never gets emptied.

The biggest place I see wasted time in your shooting (not discussing moving) is your incredibly slow target transitions. Absolutely practice something like an el prez at home with three post-it notes or mini USPSA targets on the wall and work on going across them with .2 between shots AND .2 between targets. Make yourself snap the gun to the next target instead of swinging over to it casually. Learn how fast you can physically get four shots into two close targets: right now that is killing you. bangbangbangbang with no pause is easily possible on close things. Watch how quickly Charlie snaps the gun between multiple close targets:

Then you need to figure out how to up the intensity in dryfire and make it more like match conditions for you (mentally). Draws reloads and other gunhandling aspects should be the first things that begin to occur just the way you dryfire them.

Next time spend a bit of time smoothing / polishing the notch in the slide to encourage an auto-forward reload, too.

I was the loudest voice saying that amongst the early Prima V adopters. I officially rescind that opinion with another 2,000 rounds downrange: it's nowhere near as clean as N320. About as nasty as titegroup, actually. The difference is that Prima V leaves only a sooty deposit inside the gun that takes only a shot of aerosol cleaner to remove. No scrubbing and scrubbing required like Titegroup.

You also shoot tall and square. Feet shoulder width, torso upright. And do too much work with both feet. At the start beep you could have taken a wide step out with the right foot and maybe leaned your torso slightly to quickly get your gun in line with the port, instead of the narrow-stanced two foot shuffle you did. Same with your wide transitions. If it's simply too wide to get all of the targets "inside your toes" comfortably, you might need to move a foot: Not feet. One foot. Next time you practice try setting up normally, aimed at the right targets. Then pivot on the ball of one foot - step back with the left foot or forward with your right - to swing around to the left targets. There's no need to pick up both feet and shuffle step around. Pivot aggressively on one foot and get low and wide like an NBA player. Deep enough you feel the strain in your thighs. Take a look on YouTube for the ways guys like JJ Racaza or Dave Sevigny move. I feel like their some of the more athletic pro shooters and being a younger guy with two good knees? They're worth watching.

My blade-tech bound horribly unless your draw was perfectly vertical. This was at the trigger guard area. I also had to take a heat gun to the bottom around the muzzle in order to get the gun to fit in the first place. My Red Hill Tactical is indeed may times more rigid and fit perfectly. Draws are always glass smooth and fit is top notch.

Squeeze as hard as you can without the gun shaking. Over time, your forearm (grip) endurance will get better. But only if you work those grip muscles regularly in dryfire or with some sort of weighted exercise. Dryfire just has the benefit of also making you a better shooter. Each time I finish a 15 min dryfire session my forearms are shot.

@SoCalShooter69 smells a lot like @ryridesmotox. How've you been?

Perhaps... rest it muzzle-up on the beavertail and try to drive the slide rearward with a squib rod inserted into the barrel / empty case?

My money is on an overly-enthusaiastic fitting of the safety and sear.

I've been shooting a Tanfoglio for that last six months. The M&P is collecting dust. If anyone's buddy wants a 100% reliable two tone cerakoted M&P with an insanely good trigger for a good price? Have them PM me. (I joke, but I probably will sell it eventually...) That's how attached I am to the S&W platform.

No misses, or no points down (clean)?

Okay - next time list the precise parts list up front and save everyone some guessing. Take the firing pin block and spring out and test it. The gun still functions correctly without them installed. Also, if the gun functions perfectly when the slide is released from full rearward travel this probably isn't something worth pursuing. All of our guns might do what yours does, but since there's no reason to perform the test you're doing we would not know.

Final video: I'd have encouraged you to run up to the center port. Your footwork isn't down yet, and there's no way you lost less than three seconds shuffling three times engaging that array. Judging by the makeup shot, you also got a noshoot penalty in return for staying back away from the port. That means you'd have been 2-3 seconds ahead if you had run into the port and backed out afterward, and been quick about it. Honestly my review would be that you need to work on risk mitigation: the Ms and As in your squad will stay back like that on tight partials. They'll shoot on the move. That doesn't mean a newer, less accurate shooter should do the same thing. Avoiding Mikes and Noshoots is more important than having the most optimized GM-level stage plan. If you, at your honest current skill level, cannot pull off a plan that requires movement or distant shots on partial targets ten times in a row? You're using the wrong stage plan for you and should choose a simpler/safer one. A poor stage plan executed perfectly will always beat a perfect plan executed poorly. Run up close and get the good hits while shooting faster!

Video 3: To be honest, with that many partials that close together, stop-hose-and-sprint would have been a better choice at your current skill level. Shooting on the move doesn't save anything when you move that slow, and greatly increase your chance of a low hit on the top partial targets turning into a NS penalty. A higher classed shooter is going to do some shooting while moving. I question the benefit for an average joe like yourself.

First stage: I'd go through the first array clockwise or counter closwise finishing on the bottom so that I had a non-penalty target to draw to and finish on - then shoot that final wide open target while backing out of the port. Especially when backing up, turn around leaving the gun arm indexed downrange and pick a predetermined spot to put a toe on, then pivot back to engage. The slow backwards shuffle is slow as hell. When making the U turn around the end of a wall, I prefer to instantly drop the mag and draw the fresh one, turn around and then sprint uprange. Once I've made the corner and I'm faced back downrange, insert the fresh mag on the move. This is personal preference, but if you can't kill a reload in one step I think it's the fastest way to move uprange. Watch your feet when you settle into the final position. I don't think I need to point out the wasted second of shuffling.

Work really hard on seeing the front sight stay stationary until the recoil lifts it. Learning to really truly keep the gun still (despite rapid trigger movement and the impending recoil) is the most important skill when it comes to shooting accurately. You will develop a "post ignition push" without realizing it as a subconscious response to muzzle rise, and you are obviously starting to. Typically when you push the rapid fire envelope at an indoor range, a staff member will show up behind you. If those rounds are all staying in a fist-sized group at 7 yards... I have never had anyone say anything. No rapid fire is actually "stop hammering rounds into our walls and ceiling" in most cases. All the more reason not to shoot faster than you can aim. Ever.

As @PatriotDefense said, the need for the extended block arises as a result of your hammer & sear combination. Changing either of those may change your firing pin block's travel or timing. (Example: With Titan hammer and 1-piece sear installed into a Stock II or III, you typically need the extended block. It may need to be fitted as well.)

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With a 147? N310. It's approaching dangerous pressures just to hit 130-135 PF though. Clays and red dot are up there, too. Eventually though, you figure out it doesn't matter too much. A good accurate load that's reliable in your gun is all you need. Pick one and practice. (I'm currently shooting Prima V and it does a terrific job of being pretty damn soft and running through my gun extremely accurately.)

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How to balance risk vs reward when pushing to slide lock? Easy way: Shoot the star first next time. If you mike once on it, reload on the transition to the paper. Better way: Learn to modulate your aggression level. Right now you're attacking everything with the same ferocity. When pushing to 11, I'd expect to see another tenth or so between shots from someone at your skill level. Times five that adds up to only half a second, and that reload cost you two. Also, something I'm currently working on: Try to recall how fast or slow it FELT like you were shooting, then review video shortly after the match and compare splits in "I was shooting slow" vs "I shot like a madman and barely saw sights" stages. What you'll see will surprise you. Feelings really don't matter.

Ambi safety. Ride the safety. Done.