MemphisMechanic

I can vouch for the fact that a hardware store magnet epoxied to your front Ghost mag pouch certainly is. It cost a total of $4. I stick my 1st mag there at locals all day long to keep it out of my pocket. I've even fallen on it and it's still holding strong. (No one cares if a Production guy has a magnet on his belt at a local as long as you don't utilize it when the clock is ticking.)

People keep missing this... The CZC hammers have always been legal. However Cajun Gun Works hammers which do not look like the factory or CZC hammer have been determined to be legal as of a couple weeks ago - and that is what all the ruckus was about. CGW offered a 'race hammer' that nearly duplicated the factory profile and while technically illegal, it was difficult for non-CZ-loving ROs to spot so DNROI just declared all of them legal: http://www.doodieproject.com/index.php?/topic/5408-dnroi-thinks-were-too-stupid-to-read-the-rulebook/ This happened just before they one-upped themselves and determined the GG P320 trigger is Production legal, too.

Watching a really good GM shoot a 25yd bill drill is pretty humbling.

I'll repeat earlier advice: don't discount how much more accurately you slow fire on the center of an 8" steel plate than paper. Not until you actually try it. I shoot for groups benchrested. However, I sight the gun in based on the POI of my freestyle shooting at 25yd on a freshly painted steel plate.

I'm not a fan of either the forward set sear nor the reset widget. Neither are worth the money. Just install the entire competition AEK (not duty/carry) and you should be pretty much good to go. Also polish the hell out of anything that moves. Including the hole for the firing pin, sides of the sear along with its hole and pivot pin, and even the extractor and it's cutout. Cannot hurt. Often helps.

The full Apex kit, some experimenting with springs, and some minor Dremel action. 3lbs in an M&P is astonishingly easy. And they still eat CCI primers like candy as long as they're seated below flush.

At least when comparing a Tanfoglio bladetech holster to the RHT two-layer holster body... The Red Hill one is twice as strong/stiff and molded to the gun far better than the Bladetech holster body was.

CJW? Cajun Jalopy Works?

I only load 9mm and I'm not changing that for IDPA. I have less than zero interest in shooting CDP. If the Stock 3 can't make 43oz in 9mm, I'd just go buy a $325 witness steel for IDPA use rather than shoot the gun I already have, or dumping $800+ into a Lim pro or Stock 1 or the like.

How the safety and the sear interact: Simply Dremel the sear underneath that wing, and put it back together again and test. Repeat until the safety can be moved into the up position in all three hammer positions.

I just need to figure out how to get my gun to 43oz if I want to play in IDPA. Give my magwell thirsting, my gun is an ESP blaster now, even if I could make SSP weight.

My M&P 9L had a 2.75lb trigger and was a pleasure to shoot... it was 100% Production legal. The Apex trigger itself isn't needed to have a sweet shooting M&P - all of their other goodies and a little bit of additional know-how go a long way. The only thing you have to legitimately give up if you want to shoot Production is the magwell.

If you don't shoot outside of the US and stick with USPSA: (Your location isn't listed.) There is no reason for an extreme sear - use the EAA single piece sear instead. Extreme hammer strut? Polish the factory one. Extreme hammer and interruptor? Better served with the BOLO and the Xtreme Titan hammer.

Step 1: turn the brightness all the way up on your screen. 2: Look at the edge of the press between the two bright blue tabs. It keeps cases pushed into their slots as they slide from one station to the next.

Explain on this one, please. Lefty here who likes the older M&Ps just fine.

If someone wants to mail me parts, I'll install them and weigh the gun and mail them back. I'm happy to help someone out who wants to build a competitive IDPA / Production all around gun, before they take the plunge and purchase a Stock III themselves.

Good luck getting ahold of him for that.

Start there and watch all four parts. Then when you come back to the forum and ask questions, get answers, and search through older posts on similar topics ... everything will make a whole lot more sense. You'll know how the gun works.

Production shooter here: Its an afterproduct of counting the number of shots needed during my initial stage plan... but the information I choose to retain is the number of *spare* rounds I'll have in each mag. If I know that I had two extra rounds but then I fired two make-up shots on steel in the first half of an array? I know the remaining targets need to be shot very delibrately because I'm already going to be shooting to slide-lock if I execute cleanly. Etc etc

Slow at first. Taking time on each target to ensure see what I need to and that I'm shooting the targets in each array in the order I planned. Then full speed when visualizing up until the final airgun.

Its more than likely that Ben grips his gun much, much harder than you do.

A newer shooter will not be able to accurately fire their second round faster than a .40-.50 split without their trigger finger pulling the gun off-target. Perhaps an even longer split. He's shooting faster than he can aim round #2. If you're encouraging speed, you aren't helping at that point. Emphiasize instead that no one in our sport "double taps" and that the goal is to fire two well-aimed shots at all times. We see the front sight on every single shot. That over time the interval between his shots will decrease on its own. How rapidly the trigger is being pulled is the last place you gain significant speed when learning USPSA. Split times are very far down the list of things to improve. Focus on the things that cost full seconds, not tenths. Draws, reloads, running instead of walking between positions.

I used to use tape. With a dot of chapstick spread around very lightly, you can see more clearly than with scotch tape. Use just enough to blur things slightly, and it's the same as squinting that eye. It isn't nearly as annoying when you are pasting and scoring.

If you can get 2 at 25 with the factory barrel, I'd sell my aftermarket ones too. You need the whole gun to fit a barrel, not just a slide. It has to be fit to the locking block and frame too. So you couldn't have just shipped the upper here.

Once again, it's a pity that you're just far enough away for it to be inconvenient - just like when you wished you had someone to work on your Tanfo magwell. Fitting a barrel is time consuming yet simple and I like doing such meditative tasks. The hand-fit APEX barrel I put in my M&P dropped group sizes from 8" to 1.75-2.5" at 25yd with 147s. (Older 9mm M&Ps are notoriously horrible at slinging heavy bullets)