MemphisMechanic

It only has side chambers anyway, so why bother with it in the first place? All we’re looking for is something to tap the muzzle downward, and even slightly flatten out the dot. Side ports to reduce felt recoil? Meh.

The colt mags have the advantage of not tapering to single-column feed, which is a lot to ask of glock mag’s feed lips with 50 rounds and a very long heavy spring underneath them. There’s also an advantage on the reload: a colt mag gets slammed straight up the magwell without that funky angle. The Glock magazine’s forward rake results in a round guided into the chamber before it clears the feed lips - if you use a good lower like a QC10. My colt fed gun has never failed to strip and feed a round properly, though. You cannot ride the bolt foward, but if you don’t induce a malfunction like that, it works really well. I think the key to a reliable PCC is proving to be a really good lower or mag block that presents your rounds to the bolt correctly. Some are better than others, for both Colts and Glocks.

Anyone with a drill press can bore a 5.56 comp out for 9mm if you just want to slap a cheap eBay compensator on to try out. Stand it on the drill’s table, clamp it in a pair of vise grips, then run a 3/8” bit down it. You already have a perfectly centered pilot hole, so even a hand drill might work just fine.

I’m running a Guard upper on a QC10 lower and feeding it with colt mags. Love it so far. It’s softer than a full blowback, but not as soft as a fully tuned 5.56 gun. I’m still figuring out the tuning to get it to shoot as flat as possible on mine. Seach this forum; there are several in-depth posts from those of us running one. I bought a complete upper. If I were to do it over again I would just buy the bolt and barrel and build the gun entirely.

Let’s start with... what’s on your gun right now? If you aren’t running a comp or brake, it doesn’t seem to take much to make a big difference. The cheapest option is to grab a $40-50 comp like the surefire procomp and run a 3/8” drill bit through the center of it to open it up to .375 I’ve got one on my PCC build with the holes on the top opened up, and it helped flatten the dot out a lot too. The gun is noticeably louder to those on either side of me.

That’s the first time I’ve heart of someone worried their striker spring is more powerful. As long as your trigger pull weight doesn’t go through the roof, and the slide doesn’t come out of battery because it’s stronger than your recoil spring, it will probably work great. You can always swap the old striker spring onto the new one if it hasn’t been somehow redesigned.

Then shoot production. Minor in a “Major division” (Ltd and Open) is not how you get into A class because all of the classifiers assume you get to shoot at a “don’t fear the charlies” level of agession.. To exit B class, dryfire until your gun handling is M class worthy; draws reloads and target transitions. If you want to move up into A class, dryfire like mad. If you want to finish matches with the guys in the higher classes but not necessarily leave B class? If the match results are your lust instead? Get video of yourself from behind. Get video of an M or two. Watch them shave three seconds off your runs with their efficient use of downtIme; shooting as they exit, running faster, and shooting into the next position’s entry.

Resurrecting posts is how you get to 50 of your own. New guys have guns to sell, man!

You certainly can do that. Yes. Just install a safety your thumbs agree with.

Beautiful gun!

Personally I don’t see a reason to spend money on an aftermaket pin for a tanfo, except that everyone else has. They run great with a factory one, and they aren’t breaking.

No riser here either.

A serious reply: only shot at a lateral moving one a few times, but done well on them historically. I hold on the leading edge of the A-zone. Right on the A/C line. Do that, find the corners of the front sight, and watch it lift twice. If you didn’t need to lead it, two close C’s are the absolute worst-case scenario. If you did need to lead it, you’ll have two shots further into the A. And you’ll know for next time.

A skateboard with a target stand on it. A dog. Fetch.

I find most people... rush. Shot calling is the first thing that goes - on the targets where you need it most.

I used to have a 2ft x 6ft bench in the garage. It has now heen relocated to an 18” x 20” ultra rigid welded mini-bench in the guest bedroom. Ahh... air conditioning! Moral of the story? Start with a larger bench with 2ft of workspace on either side of your press. After a year of use, you’ll know EXACTLY how much space your reloading habits actually require. And where that space actually needs to be.

You’ll end up building a gun with a longer handguard for USPSA. That’s the biggest thin you’re missing!

@Aircooled6racer why do you want a man with the golden ticket to SBR land to run that much barrel? You probably do want more handguard length so that you can get your offhand further out for more leverage/control over the gun. A 10-12” handguard feels about perfect, just leave enough barrel length for the comp to stick out of the handguard. I’d run a 10 or 11” barrel in a heartbeat if I could!

Well, we know that all aftermarket triggers, hammers, safeties, and decockers are now permitted. Even if they didn’t word the rules that permit it very well, that’s what is important when it comes to how a gun is set up.

Have @jcc7x7 mill the slide so you can run a dawson fiber optic front; their calculator will even tell you what height your new front soght needs to be. A Dawson fiber front is a mandatory upgrade if you’re going to shoot matches with the gun.

Well if it won’t shoot Zero’s straight it definitely needs sold. Those shoot the lights out in everything.

@RaylanGivens the 510C is circle dot, like an EOtech. But actually much crisper than the EO ever was. You can toggle between circle, dot, or use both. You’ll wind up using both, although you’ll play with dot only at first. The 510C has a gigantic window compared to the tube style sights which rocks for PCC, but it does weigh a tiny bit more: Holosun 503G with Larue QD mount: 5.86oz Holosun 510C: 7.72oz I measured those on my scale back to back.

@TRUBL how long is the buffer assembly by itself in your system? Is it a good bit longer than a factory carbine buffer, like the blitzkrieg is?

I went a little nuts on the gun before I headed to the range. Since I’m sending the barrel out to get cut down to 14.5” for a pin & weld, I decided to try something in the portion that will be cut off anway. A 5/32” port in the barrel: Then I bored the comp out with a 3/8” drill bit. Given the pilot hole, a drill press with a good square table made this easy to keep concentric without a lathe: Bored out the top ports in the comp to 5/32” as well: Finished product: I swapped the A2 back onto the gun before going to the range, so that meant I got to make the people in the lanes next to me cringe at my barrel vise when it was time to install the compensator:

All right guys. I did some recoil system / compensator testing and tuning yesterday: The winner turned out to be a ported barrel, stronger Sprinco recoil spring (blue), the kynshot 5oz .308 buffer, and a modified surefire .223 comp. See the 25 second timestamp in the video. I tried the factory cabine spring again to verify, and sure enough the muzzle began to flip again. With the blue spring? Nice and flat, and when I didn’t overcompensate and drive the gun off-center, it chewed a 2” hole in the target shooting pairs at 12 yards.