MemphisMechanic

Im my experience WST is cleaner that titegroup anyway, @Nimitz. They both leave a handgun the same visual mess, but titegroup welds a carbon depost to steel that you need to scrape off with a chisel. WST produces much easier cleaning soot. I wouldn’t choose TG over WST for this application!

With conventional trigger assemblies, the hammer is caught by the disconnector on its way back. The heavy bolt in a blowback gun slams hammer into disconnector very hard, and that is what breaks most trigger groups. There is no disconnector in the KE arms trigger. They figured out a totally different way to do it, and the hammer has nothing to hit on its way back anymore. It can actually swing back another 30° or so, and would run into the housing for the drop in assembly.

And the KE Arms SLT-1 and -2. So far, zero issues in 3 guns locally, two of them running it for the better part of a full season. Designed to fix the problems with other triggers getting beaten to death. Can also put it on SAFE after the hammer is dropped, and pull the trigger over & over in dryfire with the hammer down in dryfire.

@war_material I would definitely second the recommendation for a lighter barrel than the JP. Either KAW valley or MBX for a lightweight full-length if you’re looking to go that route, preferably set up for a 14.5” pin & weld. The taccom barrel also looks like a good option, but I haven’t seen one in person. QC10 lowers definitely result in really reliably-feeding guns from what I’ve seen locally with the guy running a Glock lower. I have a QC10 colt lower under a CMMG Guard upper and I’m really happy with how it presents the mags, too.

Agreed.

Happy to help, and I’m glad they turned out so well!

You’ve been working hard on getting better since November and your GM buddy still hasn’t called you out on running that slowly? There’s a solid 3 - 4 seconds to be carved off of this stage just by sprinting like you’re in a frantic hurry, and then arriving with the gun up.

They don’t check for heavy metals in your blood. It is a specific, unique, and unusual test for most docs. Go get it tested now! If it’s still up over 20 and you haven’t been shooting much you can almost bet it was extremely high beforehand. And could have caused your symptoms. I got up to 22 on mine, and at that point I quit running an indoor match every week. Shooting outdoors only, and wearing gloves while loading a mask when tumbling outdoors? It fell very quickly.

Here you go. My 4-part series that breaks it down step by step. I think we’re up around 35,000 views now, which is a lot for a totally-unfollowed account like my own. I guess I did a halfway decent job.

I’d go 1050 if I did it over again. Had my 650 since 2008. I wasn’t making very much money at all back then, still barely out of college. So a 650 was already 6 months of squirreling money away.

Of course. I’ll buy a 1050 & autodrive as soon as $7,500 is lying around. I like everything about the 650 with all the fixings and a bulletfeeder, except the fact that I still have to pull the handle at around 1,000 rounds an hour!

Honestly? Just clean it up and sell it for some pretty good coin and buy a Dillon. The Hornady constantly needs fiddling and tweaking. I walk up to the 650, load, and walk away.

2 key tips you figure out around the time you start hunting to move out of B: 1) You actually grip the gun like a feeble little girl. 2) You think you obey the advice to “get the gun up early” but you do not. If you don’t have a sight picture prior to the target peeking out around the wall, you wasted 0.5-1.0 seconds right there. Early means two full strides away from the shooting box or port.

Or tanfoglio. I strongly preferred the way 125s felt in mine. How the sights track and how flat the gun is? That matter way more than how soft it “feels.”

I had this same issue while taking Ben Stoeger’s class in ‘17. His advice? Three yard bill drills. I expanded it to “in your face” el prez’s, too. Helped a TON on shredding close targets.

Some ranges are super strict on first time shooters, but most are not. If you show up with gear that is safe and structurally sound and poses no hazards, many places will let you run it for your first match; a novice won’t run off with the 1st place award even if his holster is twice as fast as it’s supposed to be, after all. Then we’ll quite heavily suggest you purchase legal gear when you get home.

Stick with it. Until you’re in the running for a national chmapionship, the Q5 will not hold you back against the fetishized CZ/Tanfo platform in Production. And if Hwansik Kim is any indication, perhaps not even then. (If I shot Limited I’d want a 2011 / Tanfo Limited / CZ TSO for the weight in .40 but I’ll never pervert myself enough to shoot that cartridge. 9mm whore all the way. ) EDIT: Also, being alone against the Limited guys is motivating to me. It’s fun beating them with 10 rounds and the minor handicap! .. Although we have gained enough Production heat I’m always chasing someone nowdays.

I love the tanfoglio. I just love ploymer guns as much and guess what? Glock 34? Q5? Tanfoglio? Work hard and you can make GM or even win Nationals with any one of them. The gun barely matters. What matters is how hard you practice and how often you shoot the gun you pick. Gear is 25% of your score at the very very VERY most. Given that, I carry polymer guns and really like the PPQ line. So I sold everything else and my PPS/PPQ carry guns handle almost identically to my USPSA gun. All that dryfire helps keep me safe, too. Even shot my 8rd PPS from Appendix in a match, and won a stage in Limited with it!

Yes. I am.

I give friends exactly that setup with my 4” 9mm PPQ for their first match, in Limited minor it’s a great choice. 16 in the gun and 30 on the belt works just fine. Sometimes you’ll wind up reloading twice, but that works. I shoot my Q5 in Production. I went G34 > M&P > Tanfoglio > Q5 and do not miss any of the other guns at all. Going back and forth with the carry gun (that 4” PPQ others borrow) I barely miss a tiny step with the 4” gun versus the 5” as an A-class Production guy. It’ll be a year before you shoot any better with the Q5 so go shoot your PPQ in a match and get a feel for things. (Also, the PPQ / Q5 mag can be modified to hold 23 rounds pretty easily someday, as long as you don’t need the slide to lock back. TTI basepad, grams engineering spring & follower for a P-320 with minor dremel work.)

Those are all over the internet! You just sandblast and airbrush a tanfo instead of whatever they’re shooting it onto. A $30 harbor freight spot-blasting gun and a cheap airbrush and you’re ready to go - all you really need is a halfway decent air compressor. Cerakote is very easy, and handguns fit into any kitchen oven.

Particularly back then, Nils has often been the “drop more points but outrun everyone” kind of victor.

Seemed to help on mine!

Dawson .100” wide and between .140” and .180” tall, depending on whether you want the rear really low, in the middle of it’s adjustment, or up tall.

How often do you live fire classifier-type speed shoots? An El Prez, Can You Count, etc? I find running that kind of thing over and over REALLY helpful to learn to go fast without rushing. Second is to push hard to get even faster. When you back off to 90% of that speed, which would be your current flat-out speed, you can do it more loosely. That’s the pace you want to shoot matches at; never balls => wall.