MemphisMechanic

@billthemarine2862 wait... You have all that money in two Open guns and you still use the BARREL to check your rounds?! Shock. Bottle. Eat nothing but ramen noodles for a month if you must, but everyone who reloads should consider the shockbottle 100rd case gauge a mandatory piece of gear. It got me back to gauging all of my ammo, and I literally cannot remember the last time I had an ammo failure.

I bought a forward assist plug off of eBay that is retained with a roll pin just like the factory assembly. Installed it with a lot of JB weld slathered on. Cut the FA down close to the shape you see, then finished with a belt sander. If I were building another gun, I’d start with a slickside upper and the Guard barrel & bolt. I didn’t know those parts were available when I ordered a complete upper. I paid more... for a handguard and forward assist I didn’t want.

You do realize that those of us with 20/10 vision who can score most USPSA paper at 29 yards... aren’t looking for a single bullet hole until the stage is over. The way your sights lifted in recoil tells you where your holes were punched. Pausing to shift focus to the targets and back will only slow you down. It’s called shot calling or reading your sights. Work on it as the most important skill you can learn right now

I have run scales 2, Henning, and PD palmswells. The scales are the thinnest at the mag release up top. The bottom is 1/3 of the way between the Henning and PDs. My gut says you’ll be happiest with the Patriot grips. Plan in advance to hit them with a belt sander til you get what you like, then either griptape them or do epoxy & silicon carbide grit.

@DKnoch here you go. Heatherington’s 11-then-11 stage win... Reasons why “you don’t need a slide stop because you never run the gun dry in Production” aren’t always true:

Is it the 2.5 MOA dot or the 7.5 MOA chevron / triangle? The 2.5 DPP is almost blindingly bright. I run it a notch or two below full on the sunniest days you can find, unless I want the dot to bloom and look more like 6 MOA. The trangle reticle is *much* dimmer. Two guys at my club have switched from triangle to 2.5 dot after playing with mine.

Sure it does, John. That’s why your Stock II burns one into the dirt each time you use the slide stop. ?

I’m simply talking about firing 11 shots before you move, versus 10. Sometimes that’s what you need to do in Production. Entirely different actions; a gun will rarely but sometimes go off whikelle unloading because you sent a live primer back into the ejector. It almost always happens in a .40... and usually in a 19/2011 pattern gun. Those are the guns that place the ejector closest to the primer. Chambering a round goes the entirely oppsite direction, and if a defective gun goes off, it was about to go off when you ran the slide forward manually. In either case the risk isn’t to the shooter, it’s the round going over the berm. Your hands are nowhere near the chamber. As I’ve never seen or heard of this happening, I think you’re conjuring a hypothetical at this point. Unless you know differently?

Turn STI around. They used to be an industry benchmark, and eveyone would love to see that happen again.

World’s best hider. ???

If you’re unwilling to fire that last round in your magazine, there will be the occasional stage plan that leaves a few second on the table. And sometimes... you miss steel once, and then need a makeup on paper when planning to shoot 9. How on earth would you consider this unsafe? You load a mag and run the slide forward when you do this manually. It just saves you from needing the lever. You can prevent it by inteserting a magazine slowly. The gun self-loads exactly this way every single time you pull the trigger, and that has nevee bothered you, has it?

I load in Memphis. Same high humidity as @rowdyb. I never empty my hopper. I leave my press still full of primers, and partially loaded rounds. I just resume pulling the handle and checking cases for powder. My ammo has never given me the slightest hint of an issue. Hell, if powder absorbs water, then ALL of my powder I’ve ever loaded has absorbed pretty much the same amount. This is a case of bored gun guys sitting at computers and inventing things to worry about. Real world experience doesn’t bear it out.

It depends on your objective with the gun. In competition shooting sports we want soft recoil which means a fast-burn powder which still is in the sweet spot, pressure wise. I know you have no idea who Charlie ( @CHA-LEE) is, but trust me when I say that for any information regarding shooting Limited or loading .40... he is a wealth of knowledge. Listen to that man. He has won a lot of major matches in Limited, and blown a few cases out using the wrong powder over the years. I really like WST, and a bonus is that it also works extremely well for shoft-shooting minor power factor 9mm ammo.

That’s only US $7,024. A complete bargian.

From their website:

ProChono digital is definitely my choice in the $100 price range. It’s never failed to read accurately (unlike my old Chrony) ...including indoors with bright incandescent light placed next to the body, and aimed up at the underside of the screens.

https://www.m4carbine.net/archive/index.php/t-163257.html A5 tube versus standard M4 length:

Vltor is the only maker of the longer A5 tube. And I believe any adjustable stock should fit it, as long as you understand the difference between milspec and commercial diameters. Vltor sell it with one of their adjustable stocks. You even get two more positions: https://www.vltor.com/shop/ar/stocks/aebk-a5-vltor-a5-stock-combo-kit/

@wdfwguy use something as a short wall, lay down a fault line of some sort and dryfire various awkward leans around it with the CO gun. Those are the places it’s easiest to lose the dot - along with weakhand shooting

@Bryamill the Holsosun is tougher than the CMore (smack the hood of a C-more hard on something...) Both have similarly impressive fields of view, although Holosun’s might be even wider than a C-more’s. I highly prefer the Holisun circle-dot reticle. The Holosun will easily go all season on a single battery. It will also shut itself off sitting in a cart or bag and magcially turn itself on when you pick the gun up; we all leave ours on all day long at a match and never touch the brightness or power. The Holosun 510C is just better, if you don’t already have a C-more lying around

I’d want them pretty close to the same. PCCs do break, and having a backup that feels like what you’re used to would be nice. I can say that in mine the only change I’d consider would be an A5 tube. The longer buffertube can always be destroked, but I can’t add the 1/4” of travel I’d like to have in my carbine setup to really set her up to kanually lock back easily. I have to really slam the charging handle backward in order for the bolt to get caught.

@TGibe did you ever plunk test those? The Guard barrel has a freakishly short chamber. Ammo with a 125 TC coated bullet that will plunk in a CZ at 1.115” has to be loaded at 1.090” to freely spin in the Guard’s chamber. Obviously that’s highly bullet dependent; FMJs will let you load substantially longer... so I’d be surprised if your MGs were problematic at such short OALs. But it’s something to be aware of. All of my hiccups so far have turned out to be related to finding the right place to position a Colt mag in an upper designed to be fed by Glock mags, so my experience isn’t really relevant. I will add that I enlarged my ejection port to something truly massive before cerakoting the gun because, hey, why not? I haven’t had an FTE since that was done. This hole is effectively even larger than it looks. The edges are beveled outward, so it’s a funnel guiding cases out of the port. I wasn’t taking any chances and went full retard.

Read @BrianEnos‘s reply again. Then go out to the range again, but leave the timer at home. Keep going back until you SEE what your sights need to do while you mentally focus on the way your trigger press feels, in order to hit an A every time. You haven’t even laid a foundation for the house yet (trigger control and shot calling) and you’re worried about what color to paint the walls. What’s that mean? You have to learn to the process behind shooting fast with acuracy, before you should be worried about exactly how fast you’re shooting.

Technically 10. But it was more like 16... it kept throwing out duplicates of 1,112 FPS. I fired four in a row. Then two, and two again. If they had counted it would have been even lower. All ten rounds it clocked were between 1,111 and 1,116 FPS. It was kinda surreal.

Looking good! Were there specific features you were after, in waiting for this upper & lower?