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mkmckinley

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About mkmckinley

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    Mark McKinley

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  1. It’s a $600 optic and a $900 gun, pre tax, and you want to save $75 by foregoing a mounting plate? I have/like the CHPWS plate. Perfect tolerances and effectively has 4 mounting posts. Latham44: Vibratite. You don’t want to break a screw off in the hole.
  2. Thank you all for the guidance, this helps a lot
  3. Hi folks, setting up my belt for CO and need help clarifying a couple things in the rule book. 1. Looking at the hip bone diagram on page 117 app E3: Does the entire pistol/mag need to lay behind an imaginary infinite line defined by the hip bone/iliac crest, or just where it attaches to the belt? In other words can the optic lay past that line if the hanger is behind it? 2. Is mag/holster cant allowed in CO and Prod? 3. I added Springer +5 base plates to my mags for CO. They’re under 140mm. Can I use these mags in Prod (with 10rounds loaded) assuming the pistol+mag fits in the box? Thanks for the help. Mark
  4. What kind of accuracy are you guys getting from the 2.0 in 9mm? I had a 1.0 that shot great and another one not so much.
  5. This question comes up all the time on every forum. The best advice I can give you is to go on m4carbine.net and find "the chart" by rob_s so you know what you're getting when you buy a RRA or DPMS. Don't post anything at first, just read the stickies ("the Chart" is stickied). That said, the really good AR's are so underpriced right now you'd be crazy to go with a mid grade or bottom rung AR. Would you guy a Kia for $800 when a BMW will run you $1100? The chart will teach you what to look for and what the differences are between brands. If you want a recommendation from someone who knows AR's reasonably well (and has used one in combat) skip the lower end stuff. They may "run great out of the box" but, again, so does a kia. If you want hardware that will hold up the way it was designed get a Noveske, Colt, Bravo Company, or Daniel Defense. Within those choices the DD and Bravo Company rifles have the most bang for your buck. Aimsurplus has a special on 16" DD rifles for $999. edit: I found the links for you: http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6642 http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=7376&highlight=bought
  6. Thanks for everyone who took the time to reply. I think there is some really good advice here. I was really hoping revolver shooting would improve my overall ability. I got into a couple of used .357 with really nice, tuned triggers in both double and single action. I know the guns are capable of some great accuracy too, so between the two there's no place for bad technique to hide. I guess I need to deconstruct my technique and practice follow through. I really value the bit about "liking recoil" too. I'm going to load a bunch of .38 special tomorrow.
  7. Thanks for reading. I've been shooting autos for about 10 years but I'm just recently getting into revolvers. I'm an average shooter but perform terribly with the revolvers, what gives? It doesn't matter if I'm shooting single action or double action. It's not a problem with the revolvers either, I have two Smith and Wesson's with 6" barrels and a Colt Python with a 4" in great condition. I've tried different grips and stances but no improvement. I think a clue might be that I have a flinch that I can sort of out run with my auto's. I know it's a bad habit but what's different about the revolvers? Thanks, Mark
  8. I've left that mixture in my kimber barrel (which I'm pretty sure is SS) for about 30 minutes and noticed some orange rust streaks on the patch afterwards. The rust came out easiliy and I didn't notice any pitting or anything but I'm going to use that method only if the rust is bad enough that it's going to keep the solution off the steel.
  9. I have the lee carbide dies and they work fine. I also got the full length undersize die and my reliability is great. I recommend seating and crimping in two steps.
  10. Well I jumped on some of the Hornady FMJBT .223's while they were available and now I have 6000 of the little suckers that I need to load. I want to buy enough powder to load all 6000 of them and not have to worry about it again. What kind of powder should I get? I'm more concerned with accuracy than price. I was thinking WW2230 after reading some of existing posts but I wanted to ask the experts before I shell out for all that powder. Also could someone check my math... by my calculation I should need somewhere between 20 and 24 lbs depending on powder. I've been loading .45 ACP and damn, that seems like a lot. Thanks, Mark
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