mkmckinley

Ah understood. Thank you! I always thought that beavertail looked a little weird but I’m sure I could get used to it.

JJ that’s pretty great. What’s that front sight?

Agreed! All the weird old dudes that still want to shoot .40 can shoot limited major amongst themselves, and everyone else can run 9mm. edit: It’s hard to fathom what kind of pathetic loser would edit someone else’s post on an obscure web forum.

They should just make A fudgecicle nobody but a few crayon chewers and winder likkers want its own class, so people who want to shoot a limited style gun but not dick around with .40 can be scored against other minor shooters.

What little issues?

I’m really close to buying one of these. Any updates on hownit’s running for you? Also, how does it handle gunk from the spent cases? Is it easy to clean burnt primer crud every so often?

I got one. Very nicely made. It adds a noticeable amount of weight in a spot that doesn’t interfere with the way the gun swings as much as weight in the dustcover area. It’s good. I even notice a difference between the SSI tungsten and the CHPWS brass.

The Gen 3s weren’t as accurate as the 5. The janky slide lock spring could break pretty easily, deadlining the frame. The grip texture was weak sauce. The finger grooves weren’t my favorite but also weren’t deal breakers. But the biggest thing, the ejection sucked because they didn’t have the breach face cutout that started in the Gen 5.

Excellent, thank you. Looks like most of the parts that would wear or need service are either 1911 or CZ parts. I love that they went with a chassis.

Whoah thanks for posting. That trigger/bow looks a standard 1911 pattern part. Does that appear to be the case?

High primers?

I had the same experience with lighter recoil springs. I just quit fing with it and went back to stock.

That’s good input, I appreciate learning from your experience. I’m coming from a Super 1050. I run the brass through a processing stage where they get decapped and primer pocket swaged, then rollsized, before even hitting the reloading press. I inspect for stepped brass and primers during rollsizing, and then the decap/swage on the actual reloading stage is there for backup. This has eliminated most problems in my manual reloading on the 1050 except for the occasional flipped/missed primer or jacked up bullet drop. I’ve never had a double charge but I have had one squib. I’ll take your advice and try without sensors and see how it goes. Thanks again.

Looking into an autodrive for my Mark 7 Evo and I can’t decide which sensors to go with. What would you say are the most useful and reliable to get? thanks, Mark

Yeah and for the cost I have a PAL filler and like 30 tubes. I just sit and fill them on the deck while I listen to audible. I like being able to see each and every primer drop in the correct orientation.