kaiserb

I called my Home Owners insurance agent today to verify coverage limits and ask the dreaded question "what is the policy limits for firearms (theft, fire, etc)?" The agent paused for a second then asked me if I was good on ammo, because he had just found some in stock at a nearby store. This was a bit unexpected but very refreshing. We traded a few stories about shooting, hunting and local gun shows. Guess I picked a good insurance agent.

Also with the Comp III you can put grip tape on the shaft. I saw one of the guys from the Trinidad team at the IDPA nationals with grip tape on the shaft and sides. He could reload pretty darn fast without finger slippage.

How so? I have always cleaned with the lid off and the brass comes out shiny and new looking? Do the vibe tumblers clean faster with the lid on?

I am thinking of getting a Magwell for my M&P to shoot IDPA ESP. I saw the Nevco magwell and the claim is it is IDPA legal. Does anyone have any experiences with one of these (good, bad or ugly)? http://www.nevcotargets.com/swmp.html

Jordan, I thought you shot great. Your video looks great also.

The IDLH [immediate Danger to Life and Health] concentration for Propane is 2200 ppm, which is based on the LEL [Lower Explosive Limit]. It must be noted that protection for chemical overexposures is not effective protection from burns in the event of a fire. http://www.ebsinfo.com/Tech-pdf-files/MSDS-Propane.pdf

Yup, just the little plastic/rubber part that covers the needle. If you buy a bottle of Norvey Inc. Turbine Oil for $0.99 at Ace hardware you will find it has a little rubber cap that will work.

If you're shooting DA it isn't an issue. Isn't the hammer spur going to be history anyway? I had a 625 that had similar symptoms (pushing off). The choices for repair replace hammer or turn the existing hammer in to a DA hammer. I wizzed the SA engagement notch off and removed the spur at the same time; polished everything and now have a nice hammer-less 625.

One thing I found to eliminate the errors from differing light conditions, is to build a box for the chrony. Inside the box the chrony is always under the same lighting condition, no direct sunlight, shadows, clouds or other items to fake out the chrony and limit the accuracy. My consistency of loads shot across the chrony on different days and times has improved greatly.

+1 Texas is the same way... cash and carry with a CHL.

What about the 610 shooters using moon clips with 10MM? I think the rule is you can not modify a revo to accept moon clips to shoot ESR or SSR.

Oftentimes the recoding is at fault. You may try using a different record format or change the settings in the software to prevent the lag in sound.

Our old next door neighbors used to have 3 outdoor labs that barked all day and night when they would go out of town. I know you pain. One thing we found that worked well was a cheapo sports horn. The air horn sound startled the dogs and they would be quite for several hours.

A good drill that helped me get over the "It's not perfect, don't pull the trigger" syndrome was the tried and true Bill Drill. After a few days of practice I was able to watch the front sight, get a good view of the guns timing, and speed up my overall splits. I can now do a Bill Drill in about 2.3 - 2.7 seconds with 0 down. I know that is a bit slow for some, but it is quick for me, last year my speed on the the 0 down Bill Drill was around 4-5 seconds.

You most likely have dirt particles embedded in the magazine follower. Options for fixing are scrub mag follower with a 3m pad to get sand and dust particles out. Or you can buy a replacement follower for a few bucks.

Statistically speaking the larger sample you test the lower your margin of error. Testing a sample size of 5 is very low and has an error rate of 40-50%, thus a 40-50% range in which you could chrony the same value(s). Small sample sizes can cause misleading results. This is why many recommend chronying at least a 10 round string and if possible a 20-30 round string. If one loads 500 rounds and tests 5 of them across the chrony you are testing 1% of the population. Looking at a shooting match example: Given 500 rounds [population] Typical chrony procedure requires 80% rounds meet PF [margin of error determine from this] Lets say we want to be 90% certain of the results [confidence level]. With a 500 round population to chose from we randomly select 5 rounds for testing [sample size], which yields Ave PF 166 StDev 15 A quick calculation shows the confidence interval is +/- 11.04. One could expect within another sample a PF range of 154.96 PF - 177.04 PF Using the same data but a sample of 30 rounds tested yields a confidence interval of +/- 4.51 so one could expect with another sample a PF range of 161.49-170.51 PF Additionally with the larger sample one could expect the SD to narrow giving an even greater confidence level in the results.

I have been working along the same lines, finding there is a slight plateau with N320. I increased my OAL and picked up accuracy.

This is a very similar process to another sport "bicycling" When you want to get faster you train at or near your VO2max using a heart rate monitor, power meter or other device. While your Vmax peaks and never really increases, you ability to operate for extended periods of time at 90-95% Vmax rather than the typical 50-65% Vmax give you the advantage. When practicing (shooting) I try to push my limits in speed and accuracy, thus improving each a little bit at a time. When shooting matches (local or otherwise) I practice in "Match Mode" working on things such as stress management, seeing everything, shooting routines, etc. This helps me to be relaxed at major matches.

What about purchasing an after-market grip and replacing the grip on the SSP? I was thinking if one had an M&P and put a Burwell grip on the gun, would that be considered "stippling" and thus and illegal modification?

I seriously considered an optical switch. But I think it will be much easier to move the switch to the crimp die. Already figured out a design I think will work very well. Only problem with this unit is that it counts the number of times the shellplate cycles, and doesn't account for crushed primers that force you to pitch a case, or those damned .380 cases that sneak in and get pitched after sizing. Once-fired indoor range brass is sweet, but I'd like to outlaw 380s on Tuesdays when I get to scavenge. Anyway, thanks for the idea. Came together great, built very quickly - only took about 15 minutes. I sourced everything except the counter from Radio Shack, including the project box. Oh, and just so everyone else knows. Turning the counter off DOES NOT clear it's memory. Only pressing the reset button accomplished that. So if you want to track the overall # of rounds loaded on your machine over an extended period of time, it shouldn't be hard to do. Just don't forget to turn it on before you start. An alternate method of mounting the switch could allow for a non-optical (cheaper by $3) alternative. Using a pinball machine microswitch with wire actuator, one could fashion a gate for the finished round chute. Thus when a round went down the chute it would index the counter by 1 and eliminate miscounting from actuating the machine, (jambs etc). Otherwise most Pinball machine manufacturers sell cheap optical sensors for $9-12. This one is $9.99 from http://www.lakesidepinballparts.com/switch.html

More info please: manufacturer? Headstamp? Thanks, ac I bet it is S&B. I have found many pieces that are brass plated steel.

I suspected the OAL may be a culprit. I am loading up 50 rounds at 1.135 and 1.140 to check accuracy and PF

In the M&P I made 131 PF with 4.2 gr TG 1.140 OAL, and 124 MG CMJ I also made 130+ PF with Bear Creek 147gr Moly with 3.9 Gr WST. 1.169 OAL

I was wondering if anyone here has a good VV N320 load for 9mm 124 FMJ MG bullets that makes 125+ PF. Currently I have tried: 4.1 Gr. N320; OAL 1.140 4.2 Gr. N320; OAL 1.130 ~133 PF but had a few FTE 4.2 Gr. N320; OAL 1.100 ~134 PF poor accuracy I am running these through an M&P 5" Pro.

I have had good luck with the OnGuard Bulldog locks to keep my Gary Fisher attached to my truck. If you are locking the bike up for short trips you may look into the OnGuard NY lock. (NY Lock)