Clamp moving under recoil

[Porkpie]

On my Benelli M2 I have a Nordic tube and Nordic clamp. The clamp is fairly firmly attached with both bolts done as tight as I can using the short end of an alan key for leverage. But I'm still finding the clamp is moving under recoil.

Any clever solutions, or is it just a case of screw it down even tighter ? I do have a calibrated torque wrench so if someone has a good consistent torque setting that works without damaging anything then I'd appreciate it !

[busyhawk]

Contact Trubl on this site...he will take care of this. Always, repeat ALWAYS ask the manufacture if there is a problem/challenge. 99% of the time the manufacture will either have a remidy, fix or replacement for whatever problem you might have. I believe Trubl works for Nordic.

Make sure you post your findings too. We all want to know. Of course Trubl also told me that I didn't really need the clamp, that the Nordic tube was strong enough:-). Look at a couple of topics down from this one listed as: Size of nordic tube on 24" benelli m2...tward the bottom you will find Trubl's advise.

I bought it and damn if I am not going to use it! I have one on my M1 and don't have your problem. I crank it down and don't forget to pattern the slugs with it loose and cranked down...the clamp can change a slug pattern at distance.

Hope this helps,

Sincerely,

RLTW,

Scott

[Toolguy]

You might try putting some skateboard tape under the clamp, then clamp it medium tight.

[Cactustactical]

Back bn the day when I used the cheap-o Tac Star clamps, I would put a piece of black electricians tape on the mag tube and clamp down on that. Kept the clamp from sliding and lasted a month or so.

[uscbigdawg]

Definitely don't crank it down ultra tight. As stated, it will change your POI of your slugs and that's what should be of your biggest concern. As for how to handle this, like others, I just used some electricians tape. Mine's not a Nordic, but I have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express before.

Rich

[Larry White]

I use a paster under both sides. Black if your pickey.-------------Larry

[StealthyBlagga]

The definitive solution that has worked well with my Choate clamps:

1) Obtain some 2-part 5 minute epoxy resin adhesive, carb cleaner or similar degreaser, some Saran Wrap, and vaseline (no, this does not get weird).

2) Cut two pieces of Saran Wrap, maybe 6"x12" each. Use one to wrap around the barrel, and the other around the mag extension tube, both centered on the location you will place the clamp. Basically, this is to prevent the epoxy from sticking to your barrel/mag tube.

3) Disassemble the clamp. Use the carb cleaner to thoroughtly degrease the inside of each half of the clamp where it bears against the barrel/mag extension tube. Smear liberal quantities of vaseline on the screw (again, to prevent epoxy sticking to it). Loosely reassemble the clamp.

4) Mix up the epoxy resin. Make sure this is done really thoroughly to ensure consistent curing.

5) Apply a goodly amount of epoxy to the inside of each clamp half where it will bear against the barrel and the mag extension tube. While the epoxy is still soft (i.e. QUICKLY), put the clamp in place on the barrel/mag tube and then moderately tighten the clamp - not too tight, as you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy.

6) Allow to cure (a couple of hours should suffice).

7) Disassemble, clean up and trim off any excess epoxy with a scalpel.

Cured epoxy resin is very resistent to heat and gun cleaning chemicals. It also has a good amount of friction, ensuring the clamp will not slide forwards under recoil.

HTH .

Edited December 28, 2008 by StealthyBlagga

[Triggerbender]

I found some clamps to change my POI when tight, could watch them spread the barrel and tube when clamping.

One day I decided to contour the clamp to the exact shape and spacing of my bbl and tube no more spread or POI change.

Then they moved under recoil.

Fix was sliding a small section of bicycle inner tube on the mag tube and barrel (not vent ribbed) clamp as usual no more movement or POI change.

Edited December 29, 2008 by Triggerbender

[AlamoShooter]

my clamp moves too , it has the gloss fininsh inside and out so I roughed it up with cours sand paper . that did not make much dif, it still moves a bit

[Sudden Death]

I don't use a clamp on mine, other than a possible change in POI they are a pain in the but when you clean your gun (take off, put on)

[blkbrd]

gave up on the clamp.

[StealthyBlagga]

I too have tweaked my clamp to be a good "neutral" fit which does not stress the barrel-magazine tube relationship. I also welded on extra metal to support it, then did the aforementioned epoxy resin trick to stop the clamp from sliding. I have never seen my POA/POI shift with slugs, but maybe I'm just lucky. However, I HAVE seen a couple of cases where other shooters' unclamped mag extensions became partly or fully detached (a couple shook loose, one had its aluminum threads shear off, and one broke where the tube meets the threaded cap)... this is why I prefer to run with a clamp. I am happy for everyone else I am shooting against to run without a clamp .

Edited December 29, 2008 by StealthyBlagga

[RiggerJJ]

To keep POI from changing when you install a "barrel" clamp, (why aren't they called mag clamps??? )

when you screw the mag tube into the barrel nut, do NOT screw it all the way in, leave it about 1/4 turn loose, then install the clamp. Then the tube should do all the flexing instead of the barrel and POI will not change.

jj

[benny hill]

2 wraps of masking tape on the tube & clamp will not move.

[bigbrowndog]

With the Nordic clamp, putting the clamp where it "fits" between the barrel and the mag tube instead of where you want it, also helps considerably. Take one side and slide it along the barrel and tube to the spot that it doesn't spread or squeeze the existing gap, then clamp it there. this helps with causing your gun to shoot to a different point of aim when its clamped.

Trapr

[TRUBL]

Ahhhh.....yes, tape the tube. NOT the barrel guys. Truth be known, you can use electrical tape as well, although I've got this really old roll of black cloth 'friction' tape that I've had for years that works rather well too. I used to use it on the choate clamps back in the day.

The tightening thing is more of an art.....there is a point at which the clamp will not move, but if too tight, it will actually collaspe the tube making the shells stick. there is truth to what Trapr says too, however, I like to put the clamp as far forward (to where it just starts to buldge out for the chokes) when possible.

And yes, I may personally not like putting a clamp on.....but I'm not everyone and certainly not one of the top shooters out there, so from that stand point you can take my info as a grain of salt.

Tim

[BPiatt]

+1 on the roll of electrical tape around the mag tube..

For those of you who suggest not using a clamp, I've seen two mag tube break at the base when the gun was rough handled. Not too rough.... just transitioning to another gun in a 3-gun stage.

[mpeltier]

I have had good luck with a piece of bicycle innertube cut to the same length as the clamp. it is a snug fit over the mag tube and gives a bit of cushion as well. Wash the piece of innertube with soapy water first though as the mfgr's use some type of slippery powder that if not removed will defeat the purpose.

[cas]

I was going to suggest using silicone adhesive. (black automotive)

"Silicone, it's the thinking mans duct tape."