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Help....what To Do With My Left Thumb?


Tolly

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Okay guys, I seem to have a small problem that is really ticking me off :angry::angry: . About once in every 50 or so rounds fired I will somehow engage the slidestop when shooting my 1911s. When I grip the gun I rest my right thumb on the safety while placing my left thumb against the slidestop right where it goes through the frame, but I put very little pressure on it. It is more just pointing down range but barely brushing against the slidestop while it's there. What am I doing to cause the slidestop to engage?? For the life of me I can't figure it out. I mean, how can you engage the the slidestop from that position and not further back? Any help would be appreciated.

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I'm trying to figure out the mechanics of this .... I'm assuming that this is a right-hand-dominant grip, correct?

When you say 'engage', do you mean push the slide stop up so that the slide locks back after the gun fires even though the magazine is not empty? If so, what is the rest of your left hand doing during recoil? [see recent thread from someone whose left hand 'lets go' during recoil]

Have you tried 'camming' your left hand forward so that the left thumb rests over top of the slide stop, rather than next to it? How much space is between the heels of your hand on the stock -- they should be touching with minimal space between them.

Pictures would be helpful, if you're able to do that; both pictures of the grip in the 'carry ready' or 'low ready' positions and fully extended, ready-to-fire.

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It's probably happening during recoil. It does not take much pressure to push the slide stop into the slide and cause a malfunction. There are two solutions.

1. Change your grip, probably not a good idea.

2. File down the slip stop so that it no longer locks the slide back, this is a better solution in my opinion, I had to do the same thing with my EAA Open gun as I was having the same issue.

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I am right handed. When I say engage I mean that it is locking the slide back when the magazine is not yet empty. As best as I can tell my left(support)hand stays put during recoil. I don't guess I really understand what you mean by resting my thumb on top of the slidestop instead of next to it. With my grip my left thumb is too far forward(towards muzzle) to rest on the checkered part of the slidestop, instaead I place it against the slidestop where the slidestop pin goes through the frame and barrel link.

FrancDoc asked...How much space is between the heels of your hand on the stock -- they should be touching with minimal space between them.

I am not quite sure what your asking here. Please forgive me, I am a newbie to the pistol games. Thanks so much for your help.

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If you consciously know that your thumbs are not hitting the slide stop on recoil, I would check the distance between the bullet and the slide stop. Often times, a little trimming of the slide stop is needed to prevent the next round from nudging it up, locking your slide open.

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I have not checked the distance from the bullet nose to the slide stop. I guess I should do that first. I have a new Wilson Bullet Proof slidestop ordered to replace the factory MIM piece and it should be here in a few days. I will try to take some pictures as well.

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I have just finished (I hope) tuning a Para / Caspian limited gun slide stop that had this problem. A previous Para had the problem too.

Many advocate removing most of the metal on the inside tab of the stop - where the magazine follower shelf catches it. This prevents early lockbacks, but gives up entirely the original intent of the slide stop - to alert the shooter that reloading is required, and to make it easy to chamber the first round in a fresh magizine. The idea then is to count shots and KNOW how many rounds you have left at all times, so you never run dry.

Well, that won't work for me, because I'm thinking about a hundred other things during a stage, and recovering from a CLICK! Tap Rack CLICK! will kill my time.

What happens to my guns is (I think) this: the bullets don't always stay precisely centered on the way up the magazine to the feed lips, and sometimes will rub the inside tab enough to raise it to slide lock. I've been told it can also contribute to failure-to-feed stoppages.

I remove about .015 from the inside and re-test, repeating as required. I have so far been able to find a sweet spot where it will still activate on the follower shelf but not false.

The only other thing I can think of is the special case of extended lever slide stops, which may have enough mass-moment to false trip during recoil.

I am right handed. When I say engage I mean that it is locking the slide back when the magazine is not yet empty. As best as I can tell my left(support)hand stays put during recoil. I don't guess I really understand what you mean by resting my thumb on top of the slidestop instead of next to it. With my grip my left thumb is too far forward(towards muzzle) to rest on the checkered part of the slidestop, instaead I place it against the slidestop where the slidestop pin goes through the frame and barrel link.
FrancDoc asked...How much space is between the heels of your hand on the stock -- they should be touching with minimal space between them.

I am not quite sure what your asking here. Please forgive me, I am a newbie to the pistol games. Thanks so much for your help.

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most slide stops don't have detent hole, put you will see a wear mark where stops. Most are hard and drilling is out, so diamond burr will work. Make it small and polish the detent head also. That will stop it from being easily pushed up by your thumb, but will still function.

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I may try adding a detent to the factory slidestop if it doesn't have one. I don't think it will be hard to do since it is MIM. I do have a Wilson Bullet Proof extractor on the way though.

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You had 1911s so is it plural as in more than 1? I had a similar problem after changing to a Wilson slide stop that after a couple of shots the bullet nose was lifting the slide stop. My problem was loading a Precision bullet about .002 too long allowing it to lift the slide stop after the bullets slid to the front of the magazine. I fixed the problem by filing the slide stop nose slightly where it was touching because it was quicker than reseating a couple 1000 bullets.

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When I grip the gun I rest my right thumb on the safety while placing my left thumb against the slidestop right where it goes through the frame

Tolly,

When you say "right where it goes through the frame," do you refer to the tab that protrudes into the mag well, or the crosspin that engages the swinging link? IOW, are you touching the front of the slide stop or the rear of the slide stop?

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I am refering to the crosspin that engages the swinging link. I have other 1911s but come to think of it I ghuess it is only happening on this one Kimber Eclipse. I have been shooting mostly FMJ Winchester White Box 230gr.

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I am refering to the crosspin that engages the swinging link. I have other 1911s but come to think of it I ghuess it is only happening on this one Kimber Eclipse. I have been shooting mostly FMJ Winchester White Box 230gr.

Okay, sounds like the gun and not your technique. I can only reiterate others advice of either dimpling the slide stop or going to something like a Wilson Bullet Proof with the notch cutout.

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Tolly,

If, it's your thumb that's bumping the slide stop, then learning a new (proper) grip is the best solution. You don't want your support hand thumb to ever be anywhere near touching the slide stop (or slide or frame). It may take awhile to retrain your grip (dry-practicing at home) but the results and improvement will be worth it.

be

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After watching the Todd Jarett video again, his weak hand thumb is in front of the slide stop. Try his drill, draw the gun (empty please) extend your trigger finger down the frame. Then place your weak hand on the gun so that your thumb is even with the extended trigger fringer. This will put your thumb in front of the slide stop. It took weeks of dry fire before I could do this constantly without thinking about what went where.

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