TreblePlink

In my experience, crimping will not help neck tension. But a slight taper crimp may improve feeding.

Thanks!

If I wanted a slightly longer barrel in a G19, could I get a G17 barrel and cut it? May be obvious, but I'm a 1911 guy.

The problem I have are all the various references to Mil-Dots, MILS, MRADS, - as if the unit is interchangeable. Certainly it's close, but are all these units in the US really Milli Radians, or the Nato version? I would just like to avoid rounding errors where I can - got enough other variables going ...

Sorry about that ...

Hi folks, been shooting pistol for a while, and now learning rifle ... According to Wikipedia, the Angular Mil is not always 1 MRAD or 1 / 1000 of a radian, but sometimes rounded, such as the 6400 per circle in NATO countries. (Ibid) The exact MRAD unit is 2 PI * 1000 per circle. As far as scope elevation adjustments and reticule Mil-Dots are concerned, do most scope manufacturers honor the exact 6283 unit or the fudged unit?

I had an LC9 that would sometimes produce light primer strikes on S&B and PMC ammo. My other nines had no trouble with the same ammo. Wound up getting my money back. YMMV.

World War II by Winston Churchill. I'm on volume six.

I've always felt that serious safety issues are priority one, minor/uncertain issues can be a judgement call, but one certainly should not be spring-loaded to zing shooters. It's my job to manage the stage / squad.

So, what are you telling me Steve ... I shouldn't be thinking I'm a slacker ?

I presume that "a bricked nook" means an unsuccessful attempt rendering it useless?

I've sometimes seen the combination of: A. Timer mic sensitivity turned up too high, and B. The RO failing to withdraw the timer away from the shooter after the last shot, or C. Contact with brass or other hard objects, causing additional time to be recorded. As a competitor, I make a point of clearing the gun quietly, and as an RO, when the shooter is obviously done, holding it at arm's length behind me to get it away from slide racking noises and to allow the scorekeeper to see it right away. (But always get a scorekeeper readback of the time) Much depends upon how sensitive the timer is.

I'm a lowly middle-B limited shooter, and over the last year I seemed to have reached a development plateau - I needed a boost. I've been through a couple of two-day “lots-of-shooting” classes with famous trainers, and dryfire lessons looked interesting. Steve had posted his availability on this forum – offering dryfire “tune ups” at very reasonable cost, and the drive from my home in Kentucky would be a modest road trip. I opted for a full Saturday. ... This was a few months ago, and I've been a slacker. I initially did do 30 minutes a day per Steve's prescription - for about 3 weeks, now I'm only doing it sporadically. BUT I'm here to tell you, (and nobody was more surprised than me) it works. Just this little bit, after a couple of months has made a noticeable difference. My draw was faster when I left Steve's basement; but my splits are now faster, and I recently shot some match stages with hit factors never before achieved. I'm a believer! Now if I can just repent from slackerdom and do more dry-fire!

All three of the Bowling Green crew will be there. Starting to look like the wx might be nice too...

Similar to the cheapest ones I've ever seen (elegant design) - which were made from cut rebar for the "H" and 3 inch high pieces of rectangular steel tubing welded on for the verticals.

The third match I shot was the Single Stack Classic, which is now the SS Nationals. I learned a lot during that match, met and watched some top shooters, and got some really good advice. Be safe, and let your squadmates know you're a newbie and welcome advice.

When loading Precision moly (coated) round nose 185s in .40, I try for 1.185 and see about plus or minus 0.002 typically - on a 550. The bullet seater fit can affect this, or there might be lube or lead on it. Or something could be a bit loose and is moving. The variation you're seeing should not cause a problem as long as the mean length isn't close to the max or min length acceptable to your gun.

It sounds like you have already heard generic advice ... being familiar with the rulebook is probably the best advice. Read it cover to cover and know what's in the major sections so you know where to look. You will find that a consistent theme during the class is looking up rules.

I use that same HF vibratory bowl with corncob or walnut and regularly do large quantities of brass. I probably take it to the extreme because I like really clean brass - I run first with the "dirty" media with Dillon polish added, then run with clean corncob. As the clean media becomes dirty it gets shifted into the "dirty" media. Works well.

You are very close to our matches just East of Owensboro - visit www.ORPCI.ORG for details. Welcome to the forum!

A few weeks ago I was in Steve's basement learning the same thing - for the El pres. I learned the "Snap & Step" - Snap the head around to the target, and (don't pivot) Step with strong foot. Several tenths faster than my old (classic old man's method according to Steve) method.

Naysayers! Fixed with 30 amps DC Tig weld with current flowing through the screw head. I don't think the nut will rotate now.

Hi Greg, There are several of us living in Bowling Green who shoot USPSA. The Owensboro match is not to be missed www.ORPCI.ORG - the North TN Practical Shooters put on good matches in Dixon TN, and as Bryan mentioned, we're involved in starting matches at the Rockcastle shooting center in Park City - the first is slated for 4th Saturday in February. Chris

So, twice now during practice sessions, finishing up shooting groups at 25 yards, I find all my hits consistently off to the right by 8 inches, and I have to readjust my windage screw a long way to get back to zero. Today I notice that the windage adjust screw head seems above flush by maybe .030, and when I push the spring-loaded screw back, I can turn its nut on the left side. So the windage adjustment screw nut has lost its stake? Can this be re-secured with red loctite, or am I going to have to re-fit a new rear sight into the dovetail?

+ 1 If it's not doubling, and it's not unsafe, WHY mess with it?