XD Niner

I bought and installed a CMC PCC 3.5# drop-in trigger. There is zero pre-travel and it has worked 100% with the first 150 rounds. A pleasant surprise is that although it is rated at 3.5#, it is breaking at almost exactly 3.0# according to my Lyman gauge.

Is it the 2.5# or 3.5# version that you have installed in your PCC?

I have an Eclipse in my three gun AR-15 and really like it. It has been very reliable. As a result, I put one in my previous PCC. In that use, my experience was very unsatisfactory. The trigger failed three times. It appears the much higher level of dirt in the blowback PCC was the main cause. I want something that goes bang every time, not just when it has been removed from the lower and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaned every few thousand rounds

I have a POF straight bow trigger that came with my MBX PCC. I now have just over 30K rounds through it and today the right hand hammer spring leg broke. This same failure happened at the 8900 round mark too. It was repaired under warranty and I expect this latest problem will be too. When I went to the POF website, they now have this warning statement, "****POF-USA DOES NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF THIS TRIGGER IN ANY 9MM PCC CARBINES. ****" As a result of the manufacturer's warning and the comments above, I plan to order a CMC drop in with straight trigger bow. I'd like to use the 2.5# model but the website doesn't state one way or the other whether this is appropriate for 9mm PCCs. I've sent them an email request and will let you know what I find out.

Hmmm,... 45 minutes waiting for a human response, 12 weeks of warranty repair backlog, and 4-6 weeks to manufacture a replacement. Sounds like a text book case of how not to run a business. I'm guessing they're in deep doo doo behind the scenes.

Thanks for letting us know there is some progress. Let us know if you make it through, how long you were on hold and if they are going to satisfy your warranty needs.

Unfortunately, your experience mirrors mine exactly. I have no idea why they have totally closed their customer support operation but they have. Talk about unwilling to stand behind your product!

Yep, that's what I found too. It seems like they could figure out how to answer their phones remotely by now.

That's the one I have been using along with sales@crimsontrace. com . I have no idea what the problem is on their end.

The battery request is by another online form. If they have an active 800 number, I couldn't find it on their website even under the Contact Us tab. Their local number, found through Yelp, is (503) 783-5333. It is still playing the same recording with no ability to leave a voice mail message.

I have a seven-month-old Crimson Trace CMR-206 green laser. The side paddle switches no longer function so it can not be activated. When it was active, I had to remove the battery to turn it off. So, I filled out their site warranty claim form. It shouldn’t have been a problem, right? It has now been over two months. I have filled out the online form twice. I then sent two emails to their customer support and sales email boxes. Then I found their phone number and called. The recorded message said they are not accepting phone calls due to the Corona virus situation and to email customer support. I have now sent a total of nine emails to them garnering a single automated response promising someone would contact me. That was three weeks and three more emails ago. I continued to send the pleas for help to both email boxes. Does anyone have a contact email address or phone number that might work? As you can tell, I am very frustrated by the lack of response.

Locally, we've recently seen a lot of PCC starts with support hand holding the hndguard and strong hand with wrist below belt. Safety is on, buttstock touching belt and muzzle is pointed down range.

+1 on the Slide Glide. I use the lite flavor.

+1 for the Holosun 510C. I have two and they are 100% reliable and very quick to acquire. If you want just a dot, you can turn off the 65 MOA circle.

I have an MBX that I love. It has 5500 rounds through it and has run 99.9% with decent ammo. As others have said, it is light weight. It feels much lighter than an MPX or JP. It is very accurate and the customer service has been outstanding. The trigger is not as light as a Hiperfire but, unlike my HP, it runs no matter how dirty it becomes. The only thing I've changed is the grip because I have very large hands. On top of everything else, it looks sexy.

I'm sure it would fit him. I measured mine and, on the smallest adjustment, the band has a circumference of right at 6-inches. It looks like it would fit on a small child's wrist.

I'd put the entire upper in my freezer before I tried the first two techniques. However, both the casing and the surrounding metal were frozen. Freezing just the casing might have worked better. There are many good suggestions above. Keep 'em coming, folks.

I had a catastrophic case separation yesterday in my nearly new MBX PCC. The base of the casing blew out, blasting out the mag as well, and left almost all of the casing sidewall stuck in the chamber. I'm not sure why it blew apart but I suspect a bad case. It was a range pickup but it had passed a chamber checker so if there had been any obvious crack it would have been rejected. It could possibly have been a double charge but I have a powder check die on my Dillon XL 650 and in ten years of reloading have never experienced one. Of course, there is always a first time. Regardless, the casing remnant was really stuck in there, I did a web search and it brought up several suggestions and three YouTube video links. I tried all three from the easiest to the most complicated. The first option was to jamb a .45 caliber bore brush into the 9mm casing just far enough to engage its full length. Then pull it out. This worked for the gent on YouTube but not in my case. Bore Brush Method Option two was to insert a plastic wall mount into the chamber and expand it with an oversized screw. I bought a #14 wall mount from the local Ace Hardware and gave it a try. Again, no joy when I pushed it out with a 2-foot brass squib rod from the muzzle end. Wall Mount Insert Method Finally, I tried this approach as a last resort: Epoxy Putty Method I was very careful to insert the foam ear plug in just far enough to ensure it was not beyond the far end of the casing. I don't think getting any of the putty into the rifling would be a good thing. I let it sit for 90 minutes (listed curing time was 60 minutes), whacked it a couple of times with the brass squib rod and a hammer and out popped the casing along with the putty plug and a mashed ear plug! Given that my next option was probably a new $300 barrel and pinned comp, the $7 I spent for the putty was a bargain. And I still have 95% of it left for the next time.

This is exactly the wording contained in the 2016 Classifier Manual. I doubt it was changed in 2018 and then changed back later.

I've timed myself on identical transition drills with my elbow locked and with my elbow pulled in and bent. I used three targets at 15 yards with three yards between the targets for the drills. In one version, I shot two per target (6 shots total) reversing directions every run. In the second, I shot one per target repeating twice starting with the first target for a total of nine shots per run. Again, I switched directions every other run. I ran each drill eight times, four using a locked elbow and four using a bent elbow.. I was consistently faster and more accurate with my elbow bent. Like many above, I use the support hand to pull the butt tight against my shoulder. This gives me much better muzzle control both in recoil and in changing aiming points to a new target. A bent elbow facilitates this. I also found the locked elbow technique to be more tiring.

I have four of these. https://outdoorsportsusa.com/BEST-SELLERS/AR-15-DUAL-AMBIDEXTROUS-CHARGING-HANDLE-WITH-STEEL-LATCH They are a dead ringer for the Radian Raptor and are only $18 shipped. I've never had one fail.

I'm another Holosun 510C proponent. Mine are red. I find that easier to pick up against a foliage covered berm than a green circle-dot. In Florida, most of our side berms are cloaked in heavy ground cover and even the rear berms are often green. I also feel the red offers a greater contrast than the green on cardboard and white painted poppers and plates. YMMV.

I use a TF 31+10 for almost all 32-round field course stages. I load it to capacity (2 down for an unloaded start) because I can. No one ever screwed up a stage by having too much ammo. I have a MBX 31+16 Mini that I use for stages with 38+ minimum round counts. We frequently have one of those at our local monthly and weekly matches. For the Monster Match 50-round stages, I can always find a place to make a moving reload. If I had a MBX maxi with its 57 rounds, I'd use it but I don't see these very high round counts often enough to make buying one a priority.

Will the Red Hill Tactical pouches support a 40+ round mag with an extension? Their website recommends against it.

Wiebad Mini Fortune Cookie. Very similar to a GameChanger but with some improvements and a lower cost. Full size Fortune Cookie The smaller version is a better fit for 22 LR precision rifles and is $14 less. Mini Fortune Cookie