ruready

I'll call dillon, it won't hurt to have a spare

The angle of the primer slide operating rod (13869) was the fix for me. I have to slightly adjust the Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) by rotating it counter-clockwise to get the correct angle of throw. Brian, care to explain more on what's the purpose of why the Bracket (13887) needs to be a few thousandth of an inch above the top frame? Thanks.

Thanks for all the reassurance. Shot my reloads today and all of them cycled perfect as everyone expected it. I'd stick with the glock barrel for now.

It looks like the right term is coke bottle. All of them looks like it. Is that normal?

Please tell me that these bulge at the base is nothing and is still safe to shoot If I am still going to use it with the factory G17 barrel. I just started reloading my Winchester brass shot through my G17, and used a 550B with Dillon 9mm dies to reload. I've read that the bulge might be a problem chambering on a non-glock barrel. It goes into the dillon case gauge just fine and the no problems chambering into the glock barrel. So if I don't have any problems chambering rounds into the OEM barrel, should I still need to worry about taking the bulge out?

On both my 550b's, I have this recurring problem where the Primer Slide does not want to go all the way in to the Primer Housing to pickup a fresh primer on the DOWN stroke. However, a slight nudge on the Primer slide would make it go in. I've checked all the alignment by following the manual and they seem to be correct. Looking at it closely, it looks like the Primer Seating cup occasionally hits the side walls of the primer housing on the way in. This had become annoying and really disrupts my reloading process as I have to always check and make sure that the slide always goes all the way in. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the pic. I might try the stair tread tape route. The skateboard tape that I used on my Glocks tends to flake when new. Often times, they go in between the gun and holster which the outcome won't be pleasant.

Thanks for tips. It looks the most common one is to sand down an old grip and apply the grip tape. I thought there is a Tru-grip for 1911 like the Glocks.

I have grip tape on my glock and liked how it feels. So I tried to put one on the grip panels of my Kimber Team match however, the grip tape won't stay long in a position. After a few dry fires, the grip tape is out of position. Is there a technique for installing this on the grip panels. Anyone know an aftermarket grip tape, pre cut for the grip panels?

I'm trying to understand your comment here. I use a beam scale and I usually only check every 10th round. Should I be weighing it every single round?

I am planning to purchase a SDB and I understand that I can not use any other dies but Dillon on a Square Deal B. My question is if I'm going to reload a 9mm brass shot from a Glock barrel with a SDB, will I have a problem as far as bulging brass for the unsupported part of the chamber? I've read that some people have to use undersize dies to get reliable feed from brasses shot though a glock barrel.

With this kind of setup, can I still run WWB and not worry about frame battering or I have to run reduced loads too?

Very nice. I've been wanting to do product type shots of my guns but do not know how to set it up. Could you take a pic of your setup.

I checked it again and yeah, it has the old powder measure style where the srpings are wrapped around the the hopper. I tried operating the arm and it is really sticky. Since it hasn't been operated for years, It probably will need major lubing and cleaning. Are these things easy to take apart and re-grease? I couldn't find any instructions on how to do it.

I had a 550B before but I regretfully sold it last year because it hasn't been used that much. With the cost of ammo going up, I would like to start reloading again. What's the difference between the 550B and the 550? How much would you pay for a 550 (non ? My friend is getting rid of his 550 which hasn't been used for at least 10 years and does not know how much he would sell to me. I'm not sure also what price to offer to him. Is it even worth buying it from him?

I'm not sure if this is already a known trick but if you append this "&fmt=18" (without double quotes) after the youtube link, you can watch a much better quality video. I've tried this on a Mac, not sure if it will work with Windows.

Is anyone using a LWD guiderod? It looks like the guiderod can be used either captured or uncaptured. Which one is most commonly used? I tried it uncaptured and it was a pain to put it in. Also, I just started experimenting with spring weights and currently have the ISMI 13# on it. Pulling the trigger does not make it come out of battery. But if I do the spring test where the muzzle is pointed up and let the slide go home slowly, it won't go full into battery IF I have a dummy round. It does however go into battery without the dummy round though. Is this a concern? Do you guys test the spring with or without the dummy round? Last one, anyone tried using a Wolf spring with an LWD rod?

Check the Application Event log for the error. If it just started to happen, chances are it was one of those Microsoft patches that's doing it.

Thanks guys. I will work on my grip.

If you guys are referring to my grip on the last array, I know that I didn't have a perfect grip there. Entering the shooting area was too tight and I have easily broke the 180 there. The angle of how the video was taken did not show the difficulty of entering the last array. SA Friday, your suggestion of going with a lighter recoil spring would make the slide cycle faster? I'm curious to know how. I always thought that going with a lighter recoil spring would even make it slower.

What do you mean? Should I have gotten more than what I get now? Are WWB's hot loads?

I didn't realize how much the muzzle flips on my G17 until I watched myself shoot a match. I am shooting WWB, and G17 is pretty much bone stock. At this point, I'm not sure if the muzzle flip is holding me back. All this time, if I'm behind the gun, it doesn't bother me. I can always see the sights come back down to the notch. But after watching myself, it now makes me wonder. Any help is appreciated.

I wish I could fit 5 in my belt.

I understand that one should never shoot based on cadence, but currently, If I pay attention on what my sights dictate me, I always fall into the (1) category of the cadence. Does that mean I need to work more on my transition? Is the goal here that my transition time should be as close as my split times?

Thanks Berkim, I think you've got the right terminology. I know that there are 2 many variables that's why I gave an example as the El Presidente, which is about 10 yards from the shooter. For arguments sake, the scenario is like this. Shooter A shot the stage with a (1) cadence. Shooter B shot the stage with a (2) cadence. None of them intentionally shot with a cadence in mind. They just happen to fall under 1 of the 2 cadences. For you peeps that always preach "see what you need to see", can you give me an analogy why the different cadence. What did shooter A and B saw?