Reloading dies recommendation for 9mm minor

[xiaohan]

New to handgun reloading, still deciding the dies for each steps. Wonder if I can get some recommendation for each type of dies from the pro, please.

 

I only have a single press now, but may move to a progressive press later(Dillon/Mark 7 etc). To be able to reload using both presses, I am thinking getting the following dies (Using Redding as an example)

1. Decapping Die

2. Carbide Sizing Die

3. Expander Die/Special Expander Die(This is only for my current single press to use, I know progressive it is not necessary)

4. Competition Seating Die with the adjustable micrometer

5. Taper crimp die/Micro-Adjustable taper crimp die

 

My questions are:

1. Is there any die I missed?

2. Is there any potential issue with the dies I chose? (I am not familiar with other handgun reloading dies manufacturers, so I just picked everything from Redding)

3. The adjustable micrometer on seating die and crimp die is not over kill or not really necessary?

4. What would you use to replace the dies I picked?

 

Thank you in advance.

[AHI]

Redding die set for a progressive press in the caliber of your choice.Would be my first choice. 

Pick a expander they all are pretty much the same.The only reason I don't like Lee is you are going to break 

decapping pins.They are $3/$4 ea.(yes I know they will warranty them). Other than that Lee has a very good set of dies.

RCBS makes good dies also.  Have never had a set of Lyman. Hornady is the only brand I have had issues with.But they

have went through a redesign . That should have fixed my problems. Only issue with Dillon dies in pistol is bullet seating adjustment.

[George16]

I would highly recommend getting the FW Arms Auto centering Decapper. It’s well-made and will suit you better when you get your MK7 press. I have both of these on separate tool heads and it makes processing Brass a cinch. The primer popper is better in preventing primer pull back.
 

Original:

https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/f-w-arms-auto-center-decapper/
 

Primer popper:

https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/fw-arms-primer-popper-auto-case-centering-decapper-deprimer/

Edited November 9, 2021 by George16
Added links

[belus]

I think what you've listed is way overkill for a pistol, especially on a manual press.

• A carbide sizing / decapping combo, Lee is cheap and their undersized sizing die is generally well liked
• Case mouth expansion, anything works though this is typically part of the powder drop on a progressive machine
• Seat die, a micrometer isn't really useful unless you change bullet weights/profiles often
• Taper crimp, and I usually use the Lee Factor Crimp Die here

 

[Jim Watson]

To paraphrase Ian Fleming on James Bond's motorcar, when I use a progressive loader I expect it to darn well PROGRESS.

I don't "process"  brass with two toolheads or separate machines; it goes from the dry tumbler to the Dillon, pausing only for a light spritz of case lube to reduce handle effort.  It goes from the Dillon to the cartridge gauge to the range.

 

My usual 9mm load these days is range pickup brass and a 124 grain coated bullet on a plain vanilla 550B.

The Dillon sizing die is fine except when I load the occasional batch of 115 gr JHP for defense gun practice.  Then I use a "U" die made by Lee, sold by EGW.  Decapping pins included.

A "powder funnel" expander is required, the MR brand "M" type was no help, the step is imperceptible on the brass and requires a micrometer to find on the part.   

The Dillon seating die is a constant aggravation unless you are going to load the same bullet to the same OAL forever.  I got the Hornady seating die with Microjust stem.  Much less expensive than Redding and good enough for me.

I use the infamous Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die.

 

Single stage loading for small lots of Magnums, any name brand will work, I have Lyman and RCBS, with odds and ends from CH and Lee.  

[NETim]

I don't see the need for really "top end" boutique dies for reloading ammo intended for practical shooting games.   Standard ordinary dies are fully capable of producing ammo more than accurate enough for the games.   

 

Reliability is the key factor.   Does your finished product feed reliably in the pistol?   That's your primary goal.   Precision ammo is worthless if it doesn't feed reliably.  

 

Get a good, quality set of calipers would be my other advice.  

 

 

[Boomstick303]

I run Redding for pretty much all of my pistol and 300 Blk dies.  I initially ran the Dillon dies that came with the press, but did not like the hour glass shape I was getting with the Dillon sizing die.  To my understanding the Lee under sizing die does this as well (I have never used this die, but from what I have read this is what the Lee die does similar thing to the Dillon sizing die, hence the under sizing description).  I also like the Micrometer dies for changing AOL for different ammo, for different guns.  With that said I am trying to come up with an OAL that will work for all of my 9mm applications therefore the micrometer die definitely is a luxury at that point.  Micrometer dies are by no means necessary, but it does make setting up dies way easier after reassembly after maintenance/cleaning for both the seating and crimping dies.   You should clean your dies with every maintenance cycle of your press, or it will cause weird anomalies with your ammo if you do not clean them.  

 

After a ton of research I went to a much different setup for 223.   I went with the FW Arms decapping die and Swage Station Foot die for processing, Dillons Rapid trim die and their RT1500 case trimmer, and have processed about 5000 rounds with zero issues, and they have performed flawlessly.  I will be using Forster Sizing die and Seating die also based on review.   I have yet to reload 223 waiting till this winter, but these dies seem to have the best reviews.  

 

The reason I brought up the 223 stuff is that I have purchased the dies what work for me and what I am trying to accomplish.  

 

I do not think top end dies are required by any means, but there is a lot of pros that come with them that you will not see in the lower end dies.  You have to ask yourself what you time is worth, and if the value of the die over the life of the die pays for itself.   In my eyes that is exactly what all of the dies I have purchased do.  

 

I do not use 2 passes to process/load 9mm currently so my sizing die also decaps the brass.  If I do move to automation, I more than likely will process 9mm before loading, meaning it would be a 2 pass process at that point.  The reason being, is for automated loading you would want your brass to essentially be as perfect as possible to prevent stoppages.  When hand loading (pulling the handle), you can feel a lot of issues when something does not work properly with a progressive press.  You will not have this ability when automating the process.

 

3 hours ago, xiaohan said:

1. Decapping Die

 

I agree with @George16mentioned above, I would go with the FW Arms or similar decapping purpose built die if this die is for processing purposes only.  They have some features that help ensure decapping that normal decapping dies do not have.  

 

3 hours ago, xiaohan said:

3. Expander Die/Special Expander Die(This is only for my current single press to use, I know progressive it is not necessary)

 

I use this die (if this is the Redding version) and it allows the press to run much smoother.  It goes above the swaging station on my 1050.  I no longer have sticking issues that I had with the powder funnel expanding the brass.  And yes I always use lube when reloading, before and after installing the expander die.  

Edited November 9, 2021 by Boomstick303

[Jim Watson]

11 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:

I initially ran the Dillon dies that came with the press, but did not like the hour glass shape I was getting with the Dillon sizing die.

I wish my Dillon dies gave the hour glass (Coke bottle, wasp waist) effect, it would have saved me the cost of U dies.

[Boomstick303]

Just now, Jim Watson said:

I wish my Dillon dies gave the hour glass (Coke bottle, wasp waist) effect, it would have saved me the cost of U dies.

 

I was surprised to see that myself, very slight but it was there.  I sold that die set.

[ddc]

3 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

I was surprised to see that myself, very slight but it was there.  I sold that die set.

 

Many feel that the coke bottle effect is helpful in preventing bullet setback. 

Makes sense to me.

[Boomstick303]

4 hours ago, ddc said:

Many feel that the coke bottle effect is helpful in preventing bullet setback. 

 

I am sure it does as the body of the brass is smaller in diameter than the bullet.  I have zero issue with setback with my reloads using the Redding sizing die.  Personal preference thing in my eyes.  My OCD can't stand the coke bottle effect.  I can see for others how it does not matter.  

[open17]

Everyone has preferences.   I started out with all Dillon for 9mm.  Now

there isn't much Dillon left on my 9mm setup for my 550.

EGW U die with Squirrel Daddy decap pins

Dillon powder drop/expander----UniqueTech micrometer on the 

powder measure, cerakoted powder bar.

Redding micrometer seating die

Lee factory crimp die.

Inline Fabrication led light 

I load 9mm with 4 different bullets, 2 different powders at 4 different OAL's

for a pile of different guns.

[slavex]

I have been running RCBS sizing dies for decades, the carbide ones. I run them in single stage presses and my automated 1050 and Revolution. They are long lasting and my favorite sizing die. I've tried others, and hated them all. For decapping I've gone from the RCBS spring decapper on the sizing die, to drilling out that die and installing a Dillon decapper to MA and finally, now I am happy, with a FW Arms decapper. Easily the best decapper on the market, the auto centering shuttle is a massive improvement and I get far less breakages as a result. The only time I actually break a pin is when there is a rock or other hard debris in the case. For a hold down die again, FW Arms for the win. Seating I use a Redding micrometer seating die, works perfect and allows for easy micro adjustments when needed (different weight bullets or different profiles), crimping is an Italian die from GBO and is a taper crimp with full body sizing, like the Lee, but much better made. I do wish it was a micrometer setup like the seating die and I don't really need the full body sizing either as I roll all my cases and they go through two sizing dies before being loaded usually. But until I need to replace it, it will stay as is. Haven't had the chance to play with a micrometer crimp die, but I would like to see one in person. Lastly I use a Lee die body with the Mr Bullet Feeder expander in it for flaring the case mouth. 

 

[HOGRIDER]

I'll chime in and say I've been using Redding Pro Competition Dies in my pistol calibers for almost 20 years, and they have never been anything but consistent producing extremely high quality, accurate reloads.  Not saying they are the best of the best, but Redding's lifetime warranty along with some of the best Customer Service I've ever received, have kept me coming back and highly recommending their products.

 

[travail]

Another vote for Redding dies. Running their progressive die set with the micrometer seating stem for 25,000+ rounds and have no plans to change as they work great. had tried a few other brands before Redding and while they are more expensive, would have been better in the long run just starting with these.

[erwos]

This may make me an anomaly, but I just run Lee dies straight across on my 650 and they work fine. Don't even bust pins very often on the size/decap. I can see the appeal of maybe having a size/decap die with a bigger mouth funnel, but I've never encountered a time where I felt like my bullet seater or FCD were letting me down.