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NETim

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About NETim

  • Birthday 11/28/1956

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  • Location
    Nebraska
  • Real Name
    Tim

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Looks for Target

Looks for Target (4/11)

  1. When I scroll down the page to the "Shield standard" red dot section, I see the Leupy Delta Point Pro.
  2. https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/
  3. A little discussion on USPSA scoring is here: https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/uspsa-scoring-line-on-practiscore.1776042/ It is entirely possible to have a faster time on a stage (or the entire match for that matter) and still finish behind someone who is shooting more accurately and/or acquiring less procedurals etc.
  4. The 5" guns are a little more muzzle heavy, which I prefer.
  5. To reduce side loading on the drop tube, I ty-wrapped the feeder spring tube to the top of the powder measure and then pushed a few coils down past the ty-wrap to maybe put a bit more downward pressure on the drop tube. The spring can't exert much side pressure on the drop tube now. I also wrapped some heavy solder wire around the drop tube itself to give it a bit more downforce. It sounds to me like maybe there might be a burr or some some kind of "gunk" inside the drop tube that is hanging up the bullets as they pass through. Maybe consider pulling it apart and give it a look? But beware! Once you pull the spring clip out of the drop tube and separate the tube from the main die body, those little ball bearings are going to come out and they like to get lost. So pull the die apart over a bowl or something to capture the ball bearings. Edited to add: Also ensure the spring clip isn't being interfered with by the powder measure. I've noticed the spring clip can, and will, be held up slightly by the powder measure body.
  6. I had to back my Bayou, Acme and DG coated 124's down to 1.07" to pass the "plunk" test on the Apex barrels I installed on my M&P's. I had been running at 1.15" with the OEM barrels. My Glocks? They don't care. I think they d chamber up corn cobs if I asked them to.
  7. I am hesitant to chime in here as I am no one's idea of a good shooter, so take it for what it's worth. I find that placing more finger on the trigger when shooting WHO yields a more stable front sight/dot when breaking the shot while dryfiring. Live fire seems to confirm this as well. I really have to follow through and concentrate as well. Otherwise I push the shots low left. (LH shooter.) Good luck from another almost Super Senior!
  8. That method worked like a charm for me when I had a case head separation in a .243 Win.
  9. I'm wondering if maybe a drywall anchor that expands out to grab the brass might work?
  10. This is simply an experiment to see if a light is warranted and/or useful for this game. I have several really good Surefire handhelds for use outside of the gaming arena where reliability is far more crucial.
  11. CBC brass is my enemy. About 95% of CBC brass loads are rejected by my Hundo.
  12. The long awaited package from China arrived today. It contained a light that looks a lot like a famous brand weapon light. Okay, no momentary position on the switch, but the light is bright, which is critical for CO needs. Ahem. The light would not snap on to M&P's rail and lock as received. The trigger guard interfered with the light. So, being a graduate of JimBob's Internet School of Dremelology, I hit the light with the Dremel fitted with a sanding drum. (This is where a $30 light gives much piece of mind during this delicate procedure.) I removed some material from the battery cover on the rear of the light with the precision that only a Dremel can provide. After a few minutes of that plus a little work with a sanding stick, I got the light to lock onto the rail. I haven't fired it yet, but I'm confident the light will stand up to the high speed requirements that a C Class shooter demands.
  13. https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/
  14. CMORE MT500 plate on top of an S&W #4 plate. https://cmore.com/Item/MT-500
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