Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

I Need To Be Schooled...


Skeeter44

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I need some help.

I acquired an open setup. It is chambered in 38 Super. It is not stamped 38 super comp. I guess these are the same thing? One is rimless? I dont fully understand what that means as I am new to the caliber.

I need help!! I dont know what die set to buy, I was told to use 3N38 powder. I did a search on here and didnt find too many specific answers. Maybe I am asking too much??

I want to learn I just would prefer not to buy stuff that isnt needed/ wont work.

Any help is greatly appreciated and the more specific, the better.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Guy Neill said:

I'm not aware of any that are not doing the job.  I've generally used Redding, RCBS and Dillon.

 

These days it may be more of what you can find.

 

So as long as it says 38 super on the box, I should be good to go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Skeeter44 said:

So as long as it says 38 super on the box, I should be good to go?

 

yes

 

Some of us mix and match dies. I like the Redding Competition Seating die myself and other are true believers in the Lee U-dies for sizing.

 

Like Guy said, start with what's available.

 

What press are you loading on ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, warpspeed said:

 

yes

 

Some of us mix and match dies. I like the Redding Competition Seating die myself and other are true believers in the Lee U-dies for sizing.

 

Like Guy said, start with what's available.

 

What press are you loading on ? 

this

redding competition seating die and lee u die. nothing else matters but the sizing and seating die i like to be as precise as possible since that affects oal (and thus the ability to chamber) and if its not sized far enough down it also might not chamber

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Skeeter44 said:

Hey guys, so I need some help.

I acquired an open setup. It is chambered in 38 Super. It is not stamped 38 super comp. I guess these are the same thing? One is rimless? I dont fully understand what that means as I am new to the caliber.

I need help!! I dont know what die set to buy, I was told to use 3N38 powder. I did a search on here and didnt find too many specific answers. Maybe I am asking too much??

I want to learn I just would prefer not to buy stuff that isnt needed/ wont work.

Any help is greatly appreciated and the more specific, the better.

 

 

 

heres a thing about peoples 38sc loads

AA7 is probably the flattest powder and i say that having used 3n38 and n320 before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have a lot of capacity in a 38S case, so there is no reason in the world to use N350 or 3N37 for major.  3N38 is the fastest powder I would use.  AA7 would be my choice.  It is slower and less expensive.  It meters like water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve's points are true:  AA7 will make Major with no problems and certainly meters well.  It does have a pretty dark side though: barrel wear.  I've had barrels that I've shot only V-V, IMR 4756, or Win 540 through and they look brand new after 10K or so.  The same barrel with AA7 looks like you poured some sand down the barrel right before shooting it. 

 

A noted ballistician once told me that this was due to the amount of burn inhibitor sprayed on AA7.  Oftentimes, a small dust particle will get sprayed down with burn inhibitor just like every full-sized grain of powder.  This dust particle doesn't ignite, but stays around in the barrel.  When the next round screams through the barrel, that particle acts as an abrasive.  Sounded feasible to me....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Braxton1 said:

The same barrel with AA7 looks like you poured some sand down the barrel right before shooting it. 

 

I haven't found that in my barrels.  The one I shoot the most with AA7/SWMP in has more than 10k rounds through it and it is still shiny and new looking.  Maybe that's because most of those rounds were Hornady HAPs.  I ran out of them at about 8k and switched to Zero 115 JHPs.  Maybe it's because I clean and lube the barrel with Weapon Shield solvent and lube.  Dunno.  I'll keep an eye on it, but I really don't have much choice.  I shoot 9 major and literally cannot fit enough 3N38 in the case to make major with a 115.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, warpspeed said:

 

yes

 

Some of us mix and match dies. I like the Redding Competition Seating die myself and other are true believers in the Lee U-dies for sizing.

 

Like Guy said, start with what's available.

 

What press are you loading on ? 

I have a hornady single stage and the hornady progressive

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im going to use 3N38 powder. The die situation is kinda s#!t right now. I cant find the Lee U-die in stock in 38 super. For now I have a redding crimp die part #31271 and an RCBS sizing die part#20237. Have not been able to acquire a seating die yet. I plan to use 124 gr. RN thats very similar to a montana gold. I hope to find a seating die soon. Any recommendations on charge weight?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Skeeter44 said:

Im going to use 3N38 powder. The die situation is kinda s#!t right now. I cant find the Lee U-die in stock in 38 super. For now I have a redding crimp die part #31271 and an RCBS sizing die part#20237. Have not been able to acquire a seating die yet. I plan to use 124 gr. RN thats very similar to a montana gold. I hope to find a seating die soon. Any recommendations on charge weight?

 

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on the Lee U-die. Easy enough to switch out down the road if so desired.

 

The micrometer seating dies are great if you are trying or using multiple bullets ; like 124 for major and 115 for minor or SC loads. Going back and forth is a breeze. If not, then pick one.

 

As for 3N38,  8.0 gr is the VV starting load but I think you are going to find something north of 9.0 is going to get you major PF. If you don't have a chronograph, get one.

 

BTW - here is a repository of some 38 super data ; http://www.k8nd.com/ipscload.htm

Edited by warpspeed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, warpspeed said:

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on the Lee U-die. Easy enough to switch out down the road if so desired.

 

The micrometer seating dies are great if you are trying or using multiple bullets ; like 124 for major and 115 for minor or SC loads. Going back and forth is a breeze. If not, then pick one.

 

As for 3N38,  8.0 gr is the VV starting load but I think you are going to find something north of 9.0 is going to get you major PF. If you don't have a chronograph, get one.

 

 

I have a lab radar. Its just a brand new gun, dont wanna screw anything up, sorry for the dumb questions. I ordered 1K of the 38 SC brass from Killough Shooting Sports. They said that its great brass, and very popular in the open guns. The dies were confusing me because I couldnt find dies marked Super Comp. They were all marked 38 Super. Once again, didnt want to screw anything up lol

Thank you for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From wiki

 

Cartridge dimensionsEdit

The .38 Super has 17.6 grains H2O (1.14 ml) cartridge case capacity.

.38 Super maximum C.I.P. cartridge dimensions. All sizes in millimeters (mm).[5]

The common rifling twist rate for this cartridge is 1 in 16 in (406 mm), 6 grooves, ø lands = .346 in, ø grooves = .355 in, land width =.12 mm and the primer type is small pistol. Both the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute (SAAMI) and Commission internationale permanente pour l’épreuve des armes à feu portatives (C.I.P.) specify a bullet diameter of 0.356 inches (9.04 mm).

According to the official C.I.P. guidelines, the .38 Super case can handle up to 230 MPa (33,359 psi) piezo pressure. In C.I.P. regulated countries, every pistol cartridge combo has to be proofed at 130% of this maximum C.I.P. pressure to be certified for sale to consumers.

The SAAMI pressure limit for the .38 ACP or .38 Auto is set at 26,500 psi (182.72 MPa), piezo pressure. The SAAMI pressure limit for the .38 Super +P is set at 36,500 psi (251.66 MPa), piezo pressure.[6]

The C.I.P. and SAAMI specified .38 Super (+P) has a semi-rimmed cartridge case.

 

In recent years, cases such as the .38 Super Comp, .38 Super Lapua, .38 Super RL (Armscor), and .38 TJ (.38 Todd Jarrett) became available transforming the .38 Super into an almost truly rimless cartridge. These "rimless" cases are somewhat of a misnomer, due to the case rim not retaining the same diameter as the case wall just forward of the extractor groove. A common example is the .38 Super Comp case, which has a semi-rim extending only .003–.004 inch per side, compared to standard .38 Super which has .007–.009 inch per side. The main reason for the development of new cases was due to the semi-rimmed .38 Super case not always feeding reliably from the double-stack box-magazines used in several semi-automatic pistols popular with practical shooting sports, such as United States Practical Shooting Association (USPSA) or International Practical Shooting Confederation (IPSC). The nearly rimless cases improve feeding reliability in these pistols but are intended to be used in firearms that headspace on the case mouth.[7] Other improvements found in some of these cases are modified extractor grooves and increased thickness in key parts of the brass for high pressure loadings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Patrickxx said:

One interesting difference is 38 super uses the 9 shell plate on a Dillion and the super comp uses the 223. It’s kinda nice for making sure you don’t get regular super brass or 9mm mixed in. 

Supercomp will sometimes work with the 38S/9mm shellplate...and other times it will pull through when sizing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...