Braxton1

We talked it up.... I haven't had one of these "It can't happen" jams in a couple of years. After commenting on this post, I ended up with one at last night's match. Dang it!!

Hornady 135 Critical Duty will make Major out of a 16" PCC. It does not out of my 5" Shrouded PCC.

Some folks who are REALLY on the sights will experience this. Long Sight Radius guns (24s, 17Ls, 34/35s) allow one to have a relatively sloppy sight picture and still make the hit. The down side of this is that it is harder to obtain a perfect sight picture (even a slight twitch will kill the perfection). Folks who can accept a sloppy sight picture will shoot a longer gun better than a shorter one. Folks who demand perfection will shoot a long gun slower than a short gun because they spend too much time trying to achieve it. I tell people all the time: "With a G17L or a 24, get the front sight somewhere in the same ZIP Code as the rear sight notch and then try to not whack the trigger too hard. The shot will be there....".

When I tried to use 13# Recoil Springs, I was having the same issue. Live Round in the chamber, another round trying to feed in with it. I couldn't explain it mechanically and folks smarter than me told me that it couldn't happen. It was so frustrating that the last time it happened, I stopped in the middle of a stage and took advantage of the "2 minute Rule" to carefully clear it and ensure that what I was thinking was what I was seeing. I went back to the OEM Recoil Spring and it hasn't happened since.

You'll often find "Prize Certificates" posted in the Classifieds here. Most are "Gimme 75 bucks for this $200 certificate" type deals. Great product, by the way. Brian Conley is very easy to deal with and supports our sport wholeheartedly.

I am a little shocked that 132 PF loads don't run in a 34 Gen5. Mine runs everything down to 110 PF 100 grain Steel Challenge loads, all while using the 1-3, 1-3-0, or 1-3-1 iterations of the Recoil Spring Assembly. My USPSA load is just a touch stronger than the OP's (4.1 N320 behind a 124 Xtreme Flatpoint). I wonder if the 46 oz. Shadow 2 provides a little more resistance to the recoil impulse than the 27 ounce Glock. If this isn't made up for somehow (strong grip and stance), I could see issues coming up.

Just to clarify: "Drops the Firing Pin Safety" means that it is falling out? Is the Extractor installed properly and working? The Extractor is what holds the FPS in the slide, so there almost HAS TO BE an issue with that. If it seems to be, I'd be contacting the Technical Service guys at the factory. The number is (770) 432-1202.

Before "damning" the barrels, ammo, or anything else mechanical, I would have a couple of other people shoot the guns. Another thing that I'd try is different ammo. I've seen some ammo that simply won't group at all, especially reloads.

The story: It’s 1989. The original Tim Burton “Batman” movie with Michael Keaton in the title role had just been released. Chris Edwards was acting as the RangeMaster for the USPSA National Championship in Barry, Illinois. On Day 1 of the match, he wore a Batman logo t-shirt and was riding around on a three-wheeler doing his thing. His radio callsign (which normally would have been “RangeMaster”) was changed to “Batman”. People started getting in on the action, buying him various Batman paraphernalia throughout the week. He got a logo’ed license plate for the three-wheeler on Day 2. On Day 3, a cape was provided. Eventually, by the end of the week, he had the mask with bat ears, cape, and all black attire. He really didn’t have the body shape to pull it off, but perhaps that made it even funnier, seeing this large guy zooming around the range on a 3-wheeler, cape flowing gracefully in the wind. The Request: Does anybody have pictures of this? Chris is getting ready to retire and I'd love to have a pic of this in his video collage. Please send to braxton1 at aol dot com. Thanks!

If the frame is completely stripped out for a major cleaning, I use Dawn, hot water, and a toothbrush. Routine, once-a-month type cleaning: Toothbrush, WD-40, and blow out with air to get rid of the WD.

As long as the abutments fore and aft are close to the sight (practically touching), that'll make up for the lack of posts, but posts are the preferred way for me also.

The older I get, the less I like "track meets", but there HAS TO BE some physicality in a Practical Shooting match. You generally can tell the vintage of the MD and Stage Designers by how much. Until two years ago, we had a match in the Atlanta area that we jokingly called "The Geezer Match". A big Field Course would have 28 rounds and maybe 15 yards of movement, start-to-finish. There'd be a couple of Medium Courses, plus two Speed Shoot/Standards type Classifiers. Shoot at 0900, eating at the Barbecued Pork restaurant at 1230. It was a nice break from other matches, being exhausted at the end and dealing with the afternoon heat.

The trigger shoe itself controls the vertical movement in the front of the trigger, just like on JMB's original 1911. There's really no need for tabs. At least that is true for 1911s, STI , and SV triggers. I would think that this would be preferable, as the surface bearing against the frame would have a greater area rather than being isolated to a thin piece of metal. I wonder if these new triggers are designed to be "sloppy" (pardon that term) in the shoe fit and the actual "fit point" is those front pads....

I think what people are chasing is a trigger without a "connector contact wall". The GPT and the Timney both pretty much eliminate that. To me, if you completely eliminate the wall, you have a trigger that feels very "SIG 320-ish". The biggest advantage (to me) of the GPT and the Timney is that you can run a relatively heavy Firing Pin Spring and still have a nice trigger. With conventional Glock triggers, you are finishing the last half of the cocking stroke with your trigger press. To take a lot of the pull weight out of it, you have to reduce the FPS weight. The aforementioned triggers hold the Firing Pin at full-cock, so you're only releasing a sear with your trigger movement.

My G-35 load is 4.7 N320 under a 180 Precision Delta, loaded to 1.125, BUT that is USPSA Major Power factor, running about 940 fps. For IDPA, you don't need NEARLY that much for SSP or ESP Division. I don't think I'd try 310 in a 40, except for light bullet powder puff loads. It's a spooky-fast powder. Vihta Vourhi actually wants us to use slower powders like N340, N350, or 3N37 in just about all of their load data.

Perhaps, being an old Open shooter, you're not exercising "visual patience" at a rate needed for the non-compensated gun. Your Open gun undoubtedly tracked differently than this one. Your brain is screaming "COME ON NOW!!", wanting the dot to be back where it was, but physics precludes that. An additional thought: 147s at a low Power Factor are very "lopey", IMHO. The gun feels like it takes forever to cycle to me. I run 124s at about a 132 PF. They are snappier, but I don't feel like I am waiting on the gun as much. With folks that I have coached, I have found the same to be true in former Open shooters and with younger shooters who grew up playing video games. They both have very fast eye speeds...which also explains the popularity of CO & LO with the young people.

99.9% of those were made to fit 1911 and 2011 pattern guns. They could also fit some of the square trigger guard CZ's. A smaller number were made to fit Glocks. Those are the only two fitments that I am aware of. The 1911/2011 one had a thin piece of plastic on the bottom of the locking insert that was removable. The holster fit a 1911, Para, Caspian (and others with thin steel trigger guards) with that piece in-place. Remove it and it'd fit the thick trigger guards of the STI/SV plastic grips.

Given the frequency of this complaint, I would start to think that the issue is the coated bullet interacting with polygonal rifling. You rarely hear complaints from folks who are using conventionally-rifled barrels with this ammo. I saw where the OP was going to get a different barrel. I wonder if he did and how that affected the results, but he hasn't visited the Forums since 2020...

I will second on the "at least a 650, preferably a 1050" camp. You can add the bulletfeeder to either press and really crank out some rounds quickly. As far as instructional materials, the "Competition Reloading" video, starring our own host Brian Enos, is great, but also very basic. It's available via Amazon. YouTube is your friend also, with channels like "UltimateReloader", et. al.

I wouldn't use this brass, just because of the enlarged flash holes. Putting a conventional primer in there, with the equipment that you're likely using, is just asking for trouble (forced out primers and weird pressure spikes).

I wonder if it's coming from the proliferation of PCC's in the market now. Most of them are blowback operated, so they're "unsupporting" the case web faster than a short-recoil or gas-operated system.

Most folks calculate what their "reloadable" capacity is and what their "full up" capacity is. For example, my Limited mags are reloadable at 19 but very tough at 20. The mags on the belt are all at 19, but the one in the gun is a "barney'ed up" 20 (meaning 20 in the mag and one in the chamber). I'll double check that the mag catch has fully-engaged its slot in the magazine, ensuring that the mag is fully-seated during the "Make Ready" process.

Clark/Para/Lissner cuts are very easy to make. Both of the required cuts are made using the same set-up (unlike Wilson/Nowlin cuts that initially require the frame to be in the mill horizontally and then turned vertically in a separate set-up). Just about any machinist of medium skill can pull off a C/P cut. The "gunsmithy" part comes in when setting the Vertical Impact Surface. Schuemann Barrels has a great tutorial on their website about how to do that.

"Apples to Apples" comparisons when related to barrels are really not a "thing". The "flaw" that Farmer pointed out is valid. Different barrels, even those from the same manufacturer, will produce different pressures and different velocities. A non-ported Barrel #1 from Manufacturer "A" might have been produced with the newest rifling cutter in the shop, so it runs on the larger side of bore sizes. Ported Barrel #2 might've used an old cutter, so it runs small and generates higher pressures. Non-ported Barrel #3 was cut with the same old cutter. You could almost predict that 1 and 2 will produce velocities that are very close. #3 will produce higher velocities than the other two just because of being tighter, plus not having ports. So, comparing an existing ported barrel to an existing non-ported is really not a valid comparison. Other factors such as the powder used in the testing may produce drastic differences (slower powders that are still producing work when the ports are opened) or no difference at all (hyper-fast powders that have expended most of their juice in the first couple of inches of barrel).

With the Gen5 barrel, this is GREAT advice, especially for those bullets like Sportsmasters that have a long bearing surface. The "Glock Marksman Barrel" is relatively short-throated for accuracy enhancement. It's not as bad as a CZ Shadow, but close. If you're loading out towards the maximum SAAMI overall length, the bullet will hit the rifling during chambering. This can result in "Failures to Chamber" where the slide won't fully-close. In extreme cases with low case neck tension/crimp, it may actually pull the bullet out of the case and spill powder everywhere when you try to clear the malfunction. In addition to Brad's suggestion above, I'd recommend "plunk-and-spin". Drop the completed cartridge into the chamber, press it firmly in-place with your finger, then grab the rim and try to spin the cartridge in the chamber. If it won't spin, it's probably still hitting the rifling, although lightly enough to still "plunk". Seat a few thou deeper until it will freely spin in the chamber. Once it'll do that, you have your target OAL. For powder charges, I'd start around 4.3 of N320, 4.8 of 231/HP38, or 4.6 of TiteGroup and chrono your way up to what's required. Please just remember that you'll be at the upper end of SAAMI specs by the time you hit USPSA Power Factor floors with 115s....