gunner40sw Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 This is the first time loading coated bullets for me so my question is about the amount of crimp. I would think you will want as little as possible if any at all. My bell worked perfect no shaving at all and a nice tight seat. Should or could I leave them at that or should I give a little crimp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 No crimp. Bullet diameter + case wall thickness x 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4n2t0 Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 You should always apply little to no crimp (.377 - .379 at the case mouth). Your just ironing out the flare you created earlier in the reloading process. Remember, sizing (not crimping) holds the bullet in place and deters setback. You crimp revolver rounds, usually at the cannelure, because unfired revolver rounds have a tendency to creep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 I bell the mouth .390 for coated bullets and crimp .378. No issues and loaded thousands. I've crimped coated bullets down to .375 and never scrapped the coating, the only time the coating/lead scraped was from not belling the mouth enough which drastically affected accuracy. Do a search for my name and look at the latest spread sheet I uploaded. You will see that when I first loaded DG bullets I had over 4" groups, after belling more same load shot under 2 inches with a best of 1.36" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4n2t0 Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Darrell said: I bell the mouth .390 for coated bullets and crimp .378. No issues and loaded thousands. I've crimped coated bullets down to .375 and never scrapped the coating, the only time the coating/lead scraped was from not belling the mouth enough which drastically affected accuracy. Do a search for my name and look at the latest spread sheet I uploaded. You will see that when I first loaded DG bullets I had over 4" groups, after belling more same load shot under 2 inches with a best of 1.36" You can definitely cut (not scrape) the coating by crimping too much, I see it all the time. You're at .378, which I consider no crimp (although technically crimped, lol) Fortunately, the OP doesn't have your flaring problem... 2 hours ago, gunner40sw said: This is the first time loading coated bullets for me so my question is about the amount of crimp. I would think you will want as little as possible if any at all. My bell worked perfect no shaving at all and a nice tight seat. Should or could I leave them at that or should I give a little crimp Edited February 2, 2021 by 4n2t0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 14 minutes ago, 4n2t0 said: You should always apply little to no crimp (.377 - .379 at the case mouth). Your just ironing out the flare you created earlier in the reloading process. Remember, sizing (not crimping) holds the bullet in place and deters setback. You crimp revolver rounds, usually at the cannelure, because unfired revolver rounds have a tendency to creep. 100% correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) 41 minutes ago, 4n2t0 said: You can definitely cut (not scrape) the coating by crimping too much, I see it all the time. You're at .378, which I consider no crimp (although technically crimped, lol) Fortunately, the OP doesn't have your flaring problem... I don't think anyone on this forum has tested coated bullets more than I have. I've tested every Bayou Bullet since it's inception. So my testing has shown that be case has to be belled more than for plated or jacket bullets. You should crimp at least .001" because just taking the bell out (.380") may fail to gauge depending on bullet sizing. I have put a roll crimp on 148 gr coated wadcutter bullet seated below the case and roll crimped slightly above with no tearing of the coating or lead so that theory about too much crimp is is invalid to a point. No I wouldn't crimp 9mm past .375 and in my testing .377-.379 works best, I personally crimp all 9mm now at .378. We have tested coated bullets in rifles to 1700 fps into water and the coating was intact, also 125 gr .357 to 1500 fps roll crimped in the crimp groove and got same results. Now depending on the bullet manufacturer's process of coating, that can have a drastic effect. Edited February 2, 2021 by Darrell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George16 Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 11 minutes ago, Darrell said: No I wouldn't crimp 9mm past .375 and in my testing .377-.379 works best, I personally crimp all 9mm now at .358. Was this a typo? I hope it is because .358 is way past .375. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) 3 minutes ago, George16 said: Was this a typo? I hope it is because .358 is way past .375. yes typo, I'll correct thanks supposed to be .378 Edited February 2, 2021 by Darrell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George16 Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Darrell said: yes typo, I'll correct thanks supposed to be .378 Thanks for the clarification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4n2t0 Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) 19 hours ago, Darrell said: I don't think anyone on this forum has tested coated bullets more than I have. And we're all better for it, thank you! 19 hours ago, Darrell said: You should crimp at least .001" because just taking the bell out (.380") may fail to gauge depending on bullet sizing. Yup, we covered that... 20 hours ago, 4n2t0 said: You should always apply little to no crimp (.377 - .379 at the case mouth). Your just ironing out the flare you created earlier in the reloading process. 19 hours ago, Darrell said: I have put a roll crimp on 148 gr coated wadcutter bullet seated below the case and roll crimped slightly above with no tearing of the coating or lead so that theory about too much crimp is is invalid to a point. We'll have to agree to disagree. I don't know, maybe our concepts of "to a point" differ because I know that severely cut coatings can have a direct impact on accuracy/leading. Edited February 3, 2021 by 4n2t0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ysrracer Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 I crimp the s#!t out of my 9mm. So far no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 Coated lead bullets first started to appear in Australia way back in 1992... jacketed and plated bullets were all but outlawed on all pistol ranges...so lead was king. The original green coating for a popular southern made line of bullets came to the USA from Australia via New Zealand and HiTek is an Australian developed product. There have been many other styles, types and brands used over the years.. but they all have the same problem...too much crimp has a potential to expose raw bullet material....and that can cause a whole HEAP of upset in terms of bullet performance. Darrell is absolutely on the money... and I thank him for his contributions on the matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4n2t0 Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Service Desk said: There have been many other styles, types and brands used over the years.. but they all have the same problem...too much crimp has a potential to expose raw bullet material....and that can cause a whole HEAP of upset in terms of bullet performance. Darrell is absolutely on the money... and I thank him for his contributions on the matter. Huh? You should re-read Darrells post, He's stating the exact opposite, lol. Is he still "absolutely on the money"? Edited February 3, 2021 by 4n2t0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I get the best accuracy and consistency with .001 crimp. You can’t just state that it has to be .375 or .377 because of brass thickness differences and bullet size. I think more coating damage is done by the sharp edge on the inner case mouth cutting the coating. Even at that, the small surface that is cut shouldn’t cause leading. NOW if that crimp sizes the base of the bullet down too far and you get flame cutting, then yes you’ll get leading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HCH Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 17 hours ago, ysrracer said: I crimp the s#!t out of my 9mm. So far no issues. Me too. And 40 and 45. All are loaded with bullets that I cast and powder coat or HiTek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
looking4reloadingdeals Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 All I can say is that I have never measured the crimp diameter, no matter what I’m loading. I simply go off the interaction between the bullet and the case and look for the ever so slightest mark/indentation on the bullet after being pulled. If I get there and it passes gauge/plunk I go with it. I’m sure this is how most of finally determine your crimp, but I say this because I think the specific measurement doesn’t matter as much in the end as what your specific bullets do with your specific cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunner40sw Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. I loaded a few and got out to the range and tested them. everything was great so I proceeded to load them all up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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