MemphisMechanic Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 1 hour ago, CarlB86 said: I'm doing the plastic to steel switch too. Spent my whole life shooting Glocks. I'm going through the G34 to S3 switch. How is it going? Feel free to post your own experiences in this thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortBus Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I switched from plastic fantastics and had zero issues. In fact my skill level/performance only increased. I think most issues people have going to a new gun is mental. But that's just me, it's definitely different for every person. Prior mstch gun was a P320 GGI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 I have to laugh. ############## Due to a copyright claim, the audio in your YouTube video has been muted.Video title: 12# Patriot Defense hammer spring Copyrighted song: Already Gone Claimed by: WMG ########## I guess the radio was on. didn't even notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeviSS Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 On 11/8/2016 at 11:54 PM, Dr Mitch said: Reloads: practice them with zeal. The problem is that the opening of the magwell is a set of compound angles. Do you finding the Tanfos harder to reload than CZ? I've never messed with Tanfo, so I didn't know how they compare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Mitch Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 I am not sure I would say it is hard. The mag well opening is just a dumb design. Visually deceiving. I have only reloaded a CZ maybe 10 times, playing with friends' guns, so I am not necessarily qualified yet to compare their respective "reloadability". It really isn't a big deal if you practice. It can easily be overcome with about 3 weeks of mag changes to get back to 0.8-1.0sec reloads. It isn't a deal-breaker by any means, just worth mentioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share Posted November 13, 2016 I agree on it being visually deceiving. You want to insert a magazine a bit further forward than the center of the actual opening, and it needs to be angled rearward (less vertical) than the grip makes you think it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polymer Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 Went from Glock 34 to stock 2. Reloads, da to sa transition, learning curve wasn't too bad after some dry fire practice. What is killing me is i can't grip the s2 high like i do the Glock. I don't know the best way to overcome this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 I find my grip is higher on the tanfo especially with the way the slide to frame fits. Plus I can push down on the safety where I had to overlap my thumb on the back of my supper hand before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eboadway Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Yeah, a thumb on the safety and a high grip is fine. I came from a G34 and won't look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polymer Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Not sure how you guys get that high grip with support hand on the tanfo. For me, the safety and slide release prevents my support hand from going very high. On the glock, my grip is very Vogel like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 On 11/8/2016 at 10:46 PM, MemphisMechanic said: Nope. I'm going to weigh it at every step. Next comes the pull weights now that it has 350 down the pipe, and then after polishing. 350-500 rounds and 500 or so dryfires had no affect on the trigger weight. Polishing the internals of the slide also did nothing to change the weight my gauge was averaging - but removing the "zipper" feeling to the firing pin block could be felt in a smoother trigger pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 (edited) Orders which shipped today: CGW: canik trigger pin Patriot Defense: Extractor, Firing Pin, Sear, Trigger springs. 8lb longslide (10lb) recoil spring 13 & 14 lb PD Hammer Springs Bolo, Titan hammer, Xtreme Sear & F.P. Block Henning guide rod Going to see what happens when it's time to fit and install all of this on Wed or Thurs. I've already teamed my barrel to take my pet load out to 1.160 long, so I won't have to worry about those teething issues on my new gun. Thursday or Friday, I'll run a couple hundred rounds through it at an indoor range. Then, like a fool, I'm going to drive two hours to a match I haven't attended before and shoot it for the very first time under stress. (I'll be bringing my M&P along as a backup and I'll be surprised if I don't have to switch to it!) Edited November 14, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Smart to do the 8lb. I just barely bought 2 9lb's because I couldn't remember if I used the 8 or 9. Turns out I used the 8 and it has taken a bit to get used to it. For 147gr bullets the 8 seems to be the ticket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Have you polished all the bits and pieces yet? My advice would be to use the 14# spring, even after polishing, for the match. (bet you knew that, but I wanted to say it anyway!, just in case.) The fresh gun at a match makes the butt pucker...but it should be ok. (crossing fingers, knocking wood) My opinion is the recoil spring rate is a bit high. once you get familiar, try some lighter ones to see if it runs flatter. Mine seems to run 135gr minor loads best with a 6# long slide spring cut to the same length as the factory spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 37 minutes ago, WJM said: Smart to do the 8lb. 8lb long slide is "supposedly" the same spring they give you when you order a 10lb for the shorter Stock II. But I read that here, on the internet, where someone got it secondhand from a Wolff employee. So this is an apples-to-oranges comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 5 minutes ago, johnbu said: Have you polished all the bits and pieces yet? My advice would be to use the 14# spring, even after polishing, for the match. (bet you knew that, but I wanted to say it anyway!, just in case.) The fresh gun at a match makes the butt pucker...but it should be ok. (crossing fingers, knocking wood) My opinion is the recoil spring rate is a bit high. once you get familiar, try some lighter ones to see if it runs flatter. Mine seems to run 135gr minor loads best with a 6# long slide spring cut to the same length as the factory spring. Still polishing a little here and there. I have two days til I have any chance of my parts appearing, and I don't want to tear down the Sear cage before then, to forget how it works. So I'm polishing a piece here and there. I find you're much more deliberate about perfecting each part's finish if you aren't trying to do everything in a few short hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 True. It seems to be effective to polish multiple times too. At least a couple dozen....cough cough ...OCD... cough cough. lol. Have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) My transition from plastic fantastic to Stock2 has been very nice. In fact, I shoot better, reload faster, and am more used to the tanfo already than my duty gun. And I've put close to 10k through my duty gun. The tanfo is just much more home like for me. I grew up with 1911s, and I'll be buried with one to blaze through the afterlife with. I do still prefer the plastic fantastic duty gun... For duty carry. Its reliability is unimpeachable, and it's accurate enough for a 7 yard engagement. But the trigger is aweful and the grip is too small and it has that weird paddle mag release on the bottom of the trigger guard. Edited November 15, 2016 by ryridesmotox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 16, 2016 Author Share Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) I doubt the rest of you knew this. But November 16th is actually Christmas... at least when it the contents of my mailbox. (I ordered Monday morning. Not bad at all!) Time to go to work! I'll be back (much, much) later. Edited November 16, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 16, 2016 Author Share Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) Oh, and this one is for the rest of you who have just bought your gun and have no idea how tiny some of these parts actually are. Top to Bottom: EGD Guide rod, BOLO, PD hammer spring, EGD Sear. Edited November 16, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Take care with fitting the sear to the safety lever. You must maintain an overhang which goes on TOP of the bump on the safety lever. some people just file it back which ruins it! remove metal from under. It makes sense when you're fitting them. Oh... on the canik pin you also ordered. it will give slightly more trigger wobble as it has a slightly smaller diameter. it does make detail stripping easier, but adds that little wobble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 16, 2016 Author Share Posted November 16, 2016 10 minutes ago, johnbu said: Take care with fitting the sear to the safety lever. You must maintain an overhang which goes on TOP of the bump on the safety lever. some people just file it back which ruins it! remove metal from under. It makes sense when you're fitting them. Oh... on the canik pin you also ordered. it will give slightly more trigger wobble as it has a slightly smaller diameter. it does make detail stripping easier, but adds that little wobble. Canik pin isn't here yet. The PD parts got here faster than the CGW. Probably by 1 day. If I build the gun with a factory pin, will there be any issue switching to the CGW later on? Wobble is just fine with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 no issue. I switched after builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhope Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 on plastic to steel switch too, nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulm540 Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 My glock 35 was nice but the Tanfoglio is just sublime. Took me about 2 months to adjust. Won't go back to plastic fantastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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