Help Me Simplify My Cleaning/Lubing Supplies

[GregSmith]

Hey Everyone!

I'm looking to simplify my oils, solvents, greases etc. Do I "NEED" copper cleaners, Hoppe's solvents, oils, CLP sprays?

I would love to narrow it down to 3 or 4 really good products, but I feel like I have a box full of sample/trial size everythings.

Now, if you "smarter then me" people say, "hey, you really need these 6 things, then I will go with 6 things... But the box of samples has to go!

I have researched some, but it's so much easier to ask with so many experienced people on the forum. So, what are those top-end do-it-all items that are must haves?

Thanks,

Greg

[rishii]

For a gun cleaner M Pro7 is hard to beat

Kelube is my first choice, and Lucas gun oil running a close second

I don't have any clp type lubes, while they may do it all, I haven't found them to be very good at cleaning or lubing a gun

[blind bat]

Brake clean, synthetic motor oil and wheel bearing grease

[perttime]

I seem to do fine with 2 substances:

- a foaming bore cleaner that goes by "Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner" in USA

- some oil

[BrianKr]

I use Pro-lix and if I need to remove coppering from the bore I use the paste cleaner that they suggest (but I've used it for years). I just can't remember the name.

Pro-lix cleans, just let it soak in a container of it for a few minutes than I use q-tips and an artists paint brush to wipe away "tough" deposits. It gets a final rinse in the container and then it drains and dries. Done. After Pro-lix dries it's a dry lube that is slicker than grease, but of course it's dry. The Pro-lix that drained off gets put back into the soaking container for reuse. It's expensive initially, but inexpensive inthe long run since it gets used over and over. It's by far the easiest way I've found to clean, lube, and protect a handgun in 45 years of trying different methods. It takes no more than 10 minutes to completely clean and finish a handgun, and at the end I'm not greasy or oily.

I suggest a really good cleaning by any method you choose (I used Pro-Lix as a test of it), then the move to Pro-lix for every other cleaning. Because the P-L is allowed to dry, subsequent deposits are on the P-L and can't stick. It does not get wiped off of working parts. After the parts drain I do wipe off the outside surfaces after the gun is reassembled. FWIW, I don't wait for the parts to dry fully before reassembly. They'll dry even after the gun is together; in a day or so.

It's also non-toxic and won't harm wood, plastic, metals. I only use it for handguns though. I haven't figured out a good container as a soak container for long guns (yet).

If the Prol-lix soak container gets full of particles and such, and it will, it just gets filtered and reused. It's not spent until it resembles jelly.

No I'm not affiliated with Pro-Lix at all. I'm just a full retail customer and I really like the stuff. Like you I have hundreds of products that I've used on the shelf from over the years, but they no longer see use on my handguns. They're PITA to use, in comparison, so they stay on the shelf.

Note: as a storage container I use a lidded container from the supermarket. It needs to be long enough to hold the slide, and large enough in width the hold the frame for the soak phase. One thing I need to rig is a false floor so that the crud can fall through leaving the upper Pro-lix clean.

[Amerflyer48]

mostly what blind bat uses,

Brake clean = nothing gets wad plastic out faster and other fouling is no problem for it.

synthetic motor oil ( Mobil 1 5-30 EP left over from car oil changes) and wheel bearing grease ( Lucas Red&Tacky in a tub)

but I do have a bottle of Hopes Bench Rest 9 for copper fouling in the rifles when they need it

and an old bottle of #9 when I feel nostalgic just pop the cap and enjoy the smell...

[legacy]

Brake parts cleaner

Whatever oil I have in my bag.

Those little sample bottles that people hand out at matches last quite a long time, when I run out I'll go back to using 10w30 or whatever motor oil I have laying around.

[warpspeed]

For pistols ?

I use WD-40 as my cleaner. In fact, I have a parts washer filled with it and it works quite well.

Follow up with brake cleaner to remove every last bit.

Then lube with whatever oil there is handy - usually CLP.

Grease, where needed, has been Slide Glide for a long time.

[phoenixsomd]

Brake clean, synthetic motor oil and wheel bearing grease

A very effective combo... I would also add Ballistol since it comes in an spray to reach small items that only need a very light oiling

[dvc4you]

Cleaning : acetone

Lube: Mobil one

Cleaning barrel: only with bullets unless you are shooting lead.

That is it. I have no use for grease .

[Steve RA]

Brake Cleaner and Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40. Or a stationary parts cleaner - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-2-half-gallon-parts-washer-96952.html

[practical_man]

Brake clean, synthetic motor oil and wheel bearing grease

^^^ This. Plus a little Dextron Automatic Transmission fluid.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Hoppes solvent and Brian Enos' Slide Glide does it all for me.

[Sarge]

Which brake cleaner? Chlorinated or non?

Does it matter? What's the difference between the two?

Assume you have to keep it away from plastic?

Edited April 12, 2016 by Sarge

[legacy]

Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner (Usually a green cap or can)

I buy the generic version or whatever is on sale, usually by the case.

The Non-Chlorinated stuff shouldn't mess with plastics but I still try and keep it off my front site and grip.

Hose it down, blow it off and oil it up is my routine.

[darkvibe]

Is this for a pistol, rifle or both? Because i have different answers for each.

[bthoefer]

Which brake cleaner? Chlorinated or non?

Does it matter? What's the difference between the two?

Assume you have to keep it away from plastic?

NON chlorinated.

Chlorinated can react with some steels and cause weakness including cracking.

[Sarge]

Which brake cleaner? Chlorinated or non?

Does it matter? What's the difference between the two?

Assume you have to keep it away from plastic?

NON chlorinated.

Chlorinated can react with some steels and cause weakness including cracking.

Thanks!

[Matt1]

Shellite to clean and then motor oil and bearing grease to lube

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Can]

cant believe nobody uses fire clean...it's the best.

[kimberacp]

what blind bat said, except any oil will do for me. Chicken fat, if I have that available will do!!!

[techj]

Ballistol and some grease (when spec'd by the manufcaturer and for the press).

[bthoefer]

Personal recommendations are

Cleaner,

Mpro7 or Weaponshield

Both work well and don't stink so you can use them inside the house.

Lube,

Lucas Extreme duty gun oil or Cuda Lube for oil,

Slide glide for grease depending on the gun.

Edited April 22, 2016 by bthoefer

[DarksideCZ]

Brake clean, synthetic motor oil and wheel bearing grease

This!!

[Build4u]

I have used a small parts washing tank like shown above full of low order mineral spirits since the 80s. Break down the gun in a little pan set it in the tank with the nozzle flooding the pan for a few minutes then brush the parts and rinse a little, drain the pan and blow off the parts with an air hose over a garbage can. Swab the bore a little and use your favorite oil. Very fast and the spirits last a long time, you do not get the buzz like Brake Kleen though!