Can

Use sandpaper to take the sharpness off the areas that bother you.

Get a machinist to make a press fit plug / or a taper plug for it. * do not wield it. The heat from the welding wrecks the heat treating and will warp the barrel 100%

Sry guess my can-o-woopass is overflowing today. I'm a good machinest; there's not a lot of stuff I couldent reproduce, but I don't because im not a thief... I pay full price when someone comes out with a new design that holds work pieces better, and I'm happy to do so because it makes me better / faster / more precise at my job. But I guess I shouldn't project my morals on others not everyone can avoid being a scum bag. BTW, I attempted to raise my points to John Saunders himself writing out well considered comments on his youtube channel, they were deleted 6 hours later, makes sense.

I dislike that guy I use to watch untill I watched him stealing mighty bite patented tooling (talon grips) pritty scummy then he started producing and marketing his own clamps letting it sound like something he engineered.. When he just reverse enginered a kant- twist clamp. Guys no better than any of the other thiefs in China.

aviation shops do. we have sets of Deltronics that go from -13 ten-thousandths to +13 ten-thousands of common sizes, like 1/2 1/4 5/16's n so on. http://www.judgetool.com/deltronictp25tenthsets.aspx but airplane manufacturers demand a lot higher level of quality than most other industries.

If your worried about a hairline crack get a magnetic partical inspection most good wielding shops can do it, it's a red powder that has a bunch of iron dust in it, they hit it with an electromagnetic and it pulls thr powder into cracks to make them visable. It's non destructive and cheep to do. (That's how welders check for cracks in there wields.) It leaves a little red line if there is a crack or the nothing if there's not.

Tbh as a tool and die maker i would expect such from you ^^ I actually ment everyone else. I do similar, but every youtube Smith I see only owns a digital caliper and they trust it to that.0005 resolution which makes me wonder how they could make good parts. I also love people measuring telescoping gauges with micrometers.

I'm just wondering how do you guys take these measurements? I mean are you useing indicators? Micrometers, or calipers as I assume. Because every brand of caliper I've seen the manufacturers state there reliable tolerance is.002, measurements tighter than that should be taken with other instruments.

Yes, jb wield is graphite reinforced 2 part epoxy. Silicone carbide is typical knife sharing stone material. Usually the stones are 100 grit on 1 side and 240 on the other. In machine shops we use them to make shure are mounting surfaces are flat and smothe.

My cleaning kit only contains chloroform, I put some on the patch, then run the patches into my nose every time I think about cleaning my guns.

I'm not a gunsmith but I am a machinist. What you have said makes sense But it got me thinking. What if I built a gun in a different order. I think the barrel should be fitted to the slide first. Then when it comes time for slide to frame, I would want to sit the barrel on a mandrel that sits super flat dialed in with an indicator. And check it in 2 axis to make use of the extra meat on the width and height of the frame rails and So I could use the extra room built into the slide rails to correct for any barrel to slide deviation because it always seemed to be most important that barrel axis be aligned with slide rails barrel to slide is less important, sights can fix that deviation easily but the difference between bore and frame would cause more accuracy issues.

Question; I've read a few times in this thread of people making shure there drill press is tight. I'm wondering what does that mean to you? I strongly disagree with this. Maybe in your area but the 2 clausings I've had experience on were junk, and nobody in my area uses them.

You can get better / stronger threads by getting them ground and thread rolled than cutting them on a lathe and probably for comparable cost.

it's the thread needed for a comp

They sell an "easeout" kit at the automotive parts store which works exactly the way you described. However if the screw diameter is very small then it is easy to break the tool. Also you can use a mill or drill press to drill out the center of the broken screw and then it is easily removed. this is true, i have several sets, i figured that a little left hand drill would be easier for a home owner type application though. and tbh i think im faster at pulling broken screws/taps with a left hand drill than with an ez out (you almost never need to drill all the way threw the screw/tap..it just unscrews).