FireShooter Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) I'm looking for some input on an accurate, minor power factor recipe. I'm wondering what bullets y'all as using, load, coal, etc. Also are y'all using a die that seats and crimps in one step, or using a separate seating and crimping die. Also what dies do y'all recommend. And FYI I'm shooting a 6" custom 2011 with a Schumann bull barrel. Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited January 4, 2016 by FireShooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I've had very good luck with a variety of coated bullets weight 135 gr. I'm shooting them in a revolver so I'm sure you will get a higher velocity than I get. I'm using .358 bullets and VhitaVhouri Powder. 2.9 grains gives me a solid Minor load and will print one ragged hole at 15 yards. 1 - 1 1/2 inches at 25 yards from a rest. Today at a local ICORE Match I was able to keep all my rounds in the 4 inch center zone except when I shot weak hand unsupported. I couldn't see my FastFire III dot and tried to just use my front iron sight. Bad planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaijin Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 My "accuracy load" in minor is 3.9-4 grs. of TiteGroup, CCI primer, Precision Delta 124 gr. JHP with COAL of 1.140". My "range load" is a "Blue Bullet" RN of same weight and components as above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiger49931 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 If you want the most accuracy out of your barrel you will need to ladder your loads and see what harmonic the barrel likes. Ive had great success with 3.6gr WST at 1.145 147gr flat point blue bullet. 4gr WST 1.10 125gr round nose Blue bullets and 3.0 grains of titegroup 1.145 147gr ibejeheads. The blue bullets didnt seem to like tite group in my gun anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDescribe Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Sort by headstamp. And if you want to go the extra distance, measure and sort by case length.Then load to what your pistol likes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 If you can find it, there used to be (2-3 years ago) a BE member who wrote loads on LOTS of experimentation he did with accuracy in 9mm - Darren - don't remember his last name - Believe he thought N330 powder was most accurate for him ... If you can find any of his findings here in the archives, you'll be way ahead of where you are now. How much accuracy are you looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Always seat and crimp separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sray53txtn Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Always seat and crimp separately. Do you roll or taper crimp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Roll for .357 Mag, taper for 9mm, .40, .45 ACP, .223, .308, .38 spl, and .38 Short Colt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Taper ... Roll crimp is for revolvers ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 3.2 Clays with a 130gr LSWC @ .3585, KVB-223 primers, Win cases and loaded to 1.137 OAL works well for me. If you duplicate, make sure the OAL will plunk in your chamber, I'm using a Kart barrel that is throated. Not as accurate as my .45 unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sray53txtn Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thanks been several years since I've loaded any pistol rounds - Long range rifle guy. Taper it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resjudicata Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I don't know if you are still watching your thread. But, I used a Schumann in my first Bianchi gun shooting 9mm minor. I found that bullet diameter and velocity mattered more than length, powder or anything else. I believe even Schumann recommended bullets .356" or greater. Also, I found that for my gain twist barrel I had to run 115 grain bullets at leash 1250 fps to get accuracy. Below that speed they were a shotgun pattern. Above that and they grouped nicely. I would slug your barrel or just go with oversize bullets anyway. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig2009 Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 4.5gn Bullseye and 115gn rounnose fmj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FULLMETAL Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 3,8 TG with 124 RMR match Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdinga Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Zero 147 JHP, 4.0 grains of WSF, COAL 1.10, Federal primers I always seat and taper crimp in two separate steps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LtDave Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 4.5gn Bullseye and 115gn rounnose fmj. This load also shoots well for me with several different 115 JHP bullets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) 124/5 & 147 mostly Accurate loads with wst, wsf and unvi clays. Out of M&P, sigs and 1911/2011s with Schumann, barsto, and Clark bbl's Edited January 15, 2016 by jcc7x7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig2009 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 4.5gn Bullseye and 115gn rounnose fmj. This load also shoots well for me with several different 115 JHP bullets. I run this load in my Shadow Target. Load won't cycle in the Czechmate till I bump it to 5 gns to run the comp and cycle the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) I could write a book on my experience here, but use these basics. -Matched brass is a MUST. Lapua, Speer, RWS, Starline, and even Federal. All else generally sucks for consistency. -Federal SPP -3.5-4.2 grains of Titegroup, gun dependent (even 3.5-3.7 makes minor in most guns) -115 conical jacketed bullet...XTP, HAP, Sierra, V-Crown, or Zero. -OAL matters...a lot! Develop base load at 25, then run OAL tests at 50yards. -Crimp must be consistent and light. Pull bullets from dummy rounds to check bullet deformation and back off till there is none. A touch more than just removing the flare. You should see a tiny (.002" maybe) bright ring at the case mouth. Crimp and seat separately. This load, or a close variant of, shoots 3" or better at 50 in most of my guns, down to 1.4" in one of them, and all are factory. A similar 38SC load did .68" at 50 from my Open gun in avatar, but using a 147XTP. These are 6-shot groups. Edited January 16, 2016 by RippinSVT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ES13Raven Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 Zero 147 JHP, 4.0 grains of WSF, COAL 1.10, Federal primers I used the same load for the 2015 West Coast IDPA Championship, except I used 3.3gr of TiteGroup. We had a Standards stage where we had to shoot a target at 25 yards with a no-shoot on it. It was 6 shots Limited. I was the only one in our Squad to -0 it, with all 6 of my hits in the circle. Zero JHPs are damn accurate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) I don't know if you are still watching your thread. But, I used a Schumann in my first Bianchi gun shooting 9mm minor. I found that bullet diameter and velocity mattered more than length, powder or anything else. I believe even Schumann recommended bullets .356" or greater. Also, I found that for my gain twist barrel I had to run 115 grain bullets at leash 1250 fps to get accuracy. Below that speed they were a shotgun pattern. Above that and they grouped nicely. I would slug your barrel or just go with oversize bullets anyway. Chris I could write a book on my experience here, but use these basics. -Matched brass is a MUST. Lapua, Speer, RWS, and even Federal. All else generally sucks for consistency. -Federal SPP -3.5-4.2 grains of Titegroup, gun dependent (even 3.5-3.7 makes minor in most guns) -115 conical jacketed bullet...XTP, HAP, Sierra, V-Crown, or Zero. -OAL matters...a lot! Develop base load at 25, then run OAL tests at 50yards. -Crimp must be consistent and light. Pull bullets from dummy rounds to check bullet deformation and back off till there is none. A touch more than just removing the flare. You should see a tiny (.002" maybe) bright ring at the case mouth. Crimp and seat separately. This load, or a close variant of, shoots 3" or better at 50 in most of my guns, down to 1.4" in one of them, and all are factory. A similar 38SC load did .68" at 50 from my Open gun in avatar, but using a 147XTP. These are 6-shot groups. These mirror my experiences. Starline is my single headstamp of choice but I also used a batch 3k worth of WIN headstamp for about 2 years and it worked well.I also am able to get my ammo to shoot 2 inches at 50 while seating and crimping in one step. Edited January 16, 2016 by DWFAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 I don't know if you are still watching your thread. But, I used a Schumann in my first Bianchi gun shooting 9mm minor. I found that bullet diameter and velocity mattered more than length, powder or anything else. I believe even Schumann recommended bullets .356" or greater. Also, I found that for my gain twist barrel I had to run 115 grain bullets at leash 1250 fps to get accuracy. Below that speed they were a shotgun pattern. Above that and they grouped nicely. I would slug your barrel or just go with oversize bullets anyway. Chris I could write a book on my experience here, but use these basics. -Matched brass is a MUST. Lapua, Speer, RWS, and even Federal. All else generally sucks for consistency. -Federal SPP -3.5-4.2 grains of Titegroup, gun dependent (even 3.5-3.7 makes minor in most guns) -115 conical jacketed bullet...XTP, HAP, Sierra, V-Crown, or Zero. -OAL matters...a lot! Develop base load at 25, then run OAL tests at 50yards. -Crimp must be consistent and light. Pull bullets from dummy rounds to check bullet deformation and back off till there is none. A touch more than just removing the flare. You should see a tiny (.002" maybe) bright ring at the case mouth. Crimp and seat separately. This load, or a close variant of, shoots 3" or better at 50 in most of my guns, down to 1.4" in one of them, and all are factory. A similar 38SC load did .68" at 50 from my Open gun in avatar, but using a 147XTP. These are 6-shot groups. These mirror my experiences. Starline is my single headstamp of choice but I also used a batch 3k worth of WIN headstamp for about 2 years and it worked well.I also am able to get my ammo to shoot 2 inches at 50 while seating and crimping in one step. My Metallic gun simply won't extract Win brass. When I have a FTE with mixed brass I know it's Winchester before I even look. Works fine in other guns though. I tried the seat/crimp thing, I just could never get it consistent enough. And when a Lee FCD is like $12, I figure it's worth the step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthshine402 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 When i shot 9 a lot i found that Zero 147gr JHPs with Titegroup were very accurate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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