pete627 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) I see Rhinos come with moon clips now (noticed that just recently) ... (and TK stocks them). Wow ... a trigger job ... race holster ... cool ... If you wanted to be the odd man (or "more" odd) ... this would be the ticket. Just sayin' ... Edited January 10, 2016 by pete627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 I see Rhinos come with moon clips now (noticed that just recently) ... (and TK stocks them). Wow ... a trigger job ... race holster ... cool ... If you wanted to be the odd man (or "more" odd) ... this would be the ticket. Just sayin' ... We have a new club member whose only revolver is a rhino, I thought it would be fun to say the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Going to try my 6" GP100 I had converted over to .40 a couple years ago - about the same time the 8-shot was approved for USPSA. Haven't had much opportunity to shoot it but seems like it ought to work in Limited 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 That sounds like a nice piece of steel, I have been thinking about a converted GP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perttime Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 What grips do you guys use on GP100s, to clear speedloaders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) I'm running the factory grips. They are the most comfortable I've found and they have a dishout on the upper left side for the speedloader. But then I don't have to worry about a speedloader anymore Edited January 27, 2016 by COF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perttime Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I'm running the factory grips. They are the most comfortable I've found and they have a dishout on the upper left side for the speedloader. But then I don't have to worry about a speedloader anymore That's the grips I have, or at least they look exactly the same. For me, it is tight enough that getting a Safariland Comp 3 to release is sometimes a struggle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 For me, it is tight enough that getting a Safariland Comp 3 to release is sometimes a struggle. "Bubberizing" your speedloaders will help with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perttime Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Bubberizing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Lost the pic sorry. Edited January 28, 2016 by AzShooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I'll see if I can find the picture. It consists of taking away a lot of the plastic holding the rounds in place. Thus having a lesser chance of pulling the round out when removing the speedloader. Bubberizing is really a misnomer. I learned the process from Mike Henry, Gene Marshall, and Phil Rosato. We shared the info we had on the process and learned how to refine the process. We were not alone in the trials as few guys in California were also involved like Derrick Zavada and the Southwest California Guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perttime Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 This? http://averageshooter.com/tag/safariland-comp-iii/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Thanks pertime. it is a good article with good pictures and great narrative. The process is the same but I use different equipment. I have access to a cheap mini lathe and take down the outside a bit. A bit is to the point that the rims of the rounds protrude beyond the loader enabling more clearance for the grips and frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I'll see if I can find the picture. It consists of taking away a lot of the plastic holding the rounds in place. Thus having a lesser chance of pulling the round out when removing the speedloader. Bubberizing is really a misnomer. I learned the process from Mike Henry, Gene Marshall, and Phil Rosato. We shared the info we had on the process and learned how to refine the process. We were not alone in the trials as few guys in California were also involved like Derrick Zavada and the Southwest California Guys. Sounds suspiciously like a group I heard about called "The Wild Bunch". Don't believe I saw em but I did see the wanted posters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I've seen a least a couple of replies in this thread from people saying they were running L-frames cut for moons. I've read enough bad reports about K-frame moons not to go that route. Are the L-frames stouter? Also dumb question. Once cut for 9mm, can the same cylinder still handle .38/.357? Sorry but I've never used moons other than ,45 ACP. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 You need a different cylinder for 9mm than for .38/.357. L frames are definitely more durable than K frames. K frames are still viable under most conditions, but I quit using them because of barrel splitting at the bottom of the forcing cone. Some will split and some won't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 You need a different cylinder for 9mm than for .38/.357. L frames are definitely more durable than K frames. K frames are still viable under most conditions, but I quit using them because of barrel splitting at the bottom of the forcing cone. Some will split and some won't. Thanks, but the durability question was about the moon clips for rimmed rounds. I've read K-frame clips are very flimsy. Are L-frame .38 special clips any better? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firewood Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I'm trying to convince myself that I need to enter a local ICORE match coming up. I have a 4" 686 that I just had cut for moons, not the best but should work. I'm having an argument with myself, should I enter L6 or Classic, both or neither? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distant Thunder Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Why not both? You've got a gun set up to play, so why not enjoy it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afoulk Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) never mind. Edited March 30, 2016 by afoulk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seancass Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 It'd be really interesting to run both. You could see which is faster and which you enjoy more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 I vote both as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 Since my 625 has an optic on it I think I'm going to shoot my Redhawk in Limited 6 this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I see Rhinos come with moon clips now (noticed that just recently) ... (and TK stocks them). Wow ... a trigger job ... race holster ... cool ... If you wanted to be the odd man (or "more" odd) ... this would be the ticket. Just sayin' ... I use mine on a fairly regular basis in ICORE. The trigger geometry and odd grip angle are its big downfalls but people are blown away by how level it stays during shots. I'm sure a better shooter than me could be pretty competitive with one. You need a different cylinder for 9mm than for .38/.357. L frames are definitely more durable than K frames. K frames are still viable under most conditions, but I quit using them because of barrel splitting at the bottom of the forcing cone. Some will split and some won't. Stout K-frames are where it's at. Yes, I shoot a gun that's older than me. You need a different cylinder for 9mm than for .38/.357. L frames are definitely more durable than K frames. K frames are still viable under most conditions, but I quit using them because of barrel splitting at the bottom of the forcing cone. Some will split and some won't. Thanks, but the durability question was about the moon clips for rimmed rounds. I've read K-frame clips are very flimsy. Are L-frame .38 special clips any better? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It's all about the quality of the moonclip you buy. TK Customs K-frame clips are plenty sturdy and very rigid with the right brass (Federal). They're actually the same thickness for K-frames as they are for L-Frames: .025" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Oh, and replying to the original topic: I use those two guns for L-6 (Model 10-7 or Rhino). The rest of my rig is a Double Alpha belt with Revolver Supply Co moonclip holders (tall, 7/16" post as it fits both), a few Safariland speed loader holders that grip the moonclips pretty well, and the appropriate holster for the gun (modified Super Ghost Ultimate for the 10-7 and that homebrew job for the Rhino). I'm running factory American Eagle .38 for now but plan to start reloading soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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