stfla Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 On my limited gun I shoot every week; RemOil spray; a toothbrush; more RemOil spray; blow off with compressed air; reassemble with some Mobil 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radical Precision Designs Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 On my limited gun I shoot every week; RemOil spray; a toothbrush; more RemOil spray; blow off with compressed air; reassemble with some Mobil 1. Steve- You know, it sounds more like a "lube job" than a car "wash job". But with the mileage you put in you'd better think of putting in some of that extra mileage thick STP "restorer" stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFD Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 I use brake cleaner on the slide, but just to get rid of the Ed's Red I use for cleaning. I go for the cheapest stuff at the auto parts store and haven't ever paid more than a dollar a can. Would never waste contact cleaner on this task. Of course I spray it outside. Hasn't killed me in the 35 years I've been using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stfla Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 (edited) IF, oil really penetrates metal; why remove it? RadCat, stop following me!!! Edited May 13, 2006 by stfla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory_k Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 M-Pro 7 safe and works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liota Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 I've used Simple Green for years, works great.Detail strip the gun, toss all the parts in a big acro bin. Put the bin under the sink, pour in some Simple Green, and turn on the hottest water you can get. Put the electric stove on the lowest setting, after you scrub, toss the part on the stove to evaporate the water. wipe all nooks and crannies with FP-10 as you re-assemble. Ignore wife while she rolls eyes. She's probably rolling her eyes because she can't get you to go near the stove otherwise. Liota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwrig Posted May 21, 2006 Share Posted May 21, 2006 Need to try the mineral spirits. Been using brake cleaner forever. Wondered where that third eye came from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazshooter Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 If you want them very clean, like before bluing. Put them in the dishwasher, then use hair dryer afterwards. Handle with gloves so you don't leave finger prints. If I use the dishwasher my wife will kick my ass with all of the verbage I have to hear afterwards. I guess you are not married. Oh my God. I didn't think anyone used brake cleaner anymore. Wow was I wrong. Brake cleaner is extremely toxic - I advise anyone using it to stop. That stuff has neurotoxins in it. Way, way bad. Two gunsmith friends enlightened me a long time back. Don't use brake cleaner, they said! So, I listened. Here is the advice, and I've been doing this for at least 5 years now: Get a small bucket and 1/2 fill it with 409. (Don't laugh, once you try this you won't ever go back to brake cleaner.) Put in your gun pieces and parts (if you shoot limited, the whole frame can go in) and use an old toothbrush on any hard to get at areas. Using a strainer basket helps too... MOST of the gunk will fall off on it's own in a couple minutes. Think about it - 409 is meant to remove what? Grease, oil, and carbon based gunk. What's on your gun? Grease, oil, and carbon based gunk! Pull the parts out and blow them off with air. This works awesome! Your gun will be spotless. I even run a bore brush through the barrel while soaking / brushing everything with the 409. This is super effective, cheap, totally non-toxic, and the gunk and crap sinks to the bottom of the bucket so the 409 is always clean. There really isn't any downside except do not leave your parts in the bath overnight. They will rust while in the solution. They WON'T rust after you blow them off with air - don't worry one bit about that, just don't leave your gun in the 409 overnight. FYI I went from 12 cans a year to less than one using this method. I am NEVER using that toxic crap again and I don't miss it one bit! Now on rifles that is another story... I still use bore cleaner. For a minute there I thought I was the only nut using degreaser to clean a gun. I must agree it works nice and you don't need much ventilation (i.e. you can do it in the garage, don't need to go outside) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg in VA Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 SLIP 2000 725 cleaner/degreaser is super cheap and works wonders, safe for you and the world you live in, their carbon killer makes short work of the stuff in comps..... Greg in Va Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrod2011 Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 There is a new product on the market called Gunzilla. I used it on my 1911 when the sample came in the mail, and it worked great. Removed all the carbon, cleaned the barrel better than it had been for a while, and left a light film on the gun that is supposed to be a rust preventive. Plus, you can soak your fingers all day in the stuff as it is supposedly all natural plant extracts. I'm not big on CLPs, but this product has changed my mind. P.S. Don't tell Brian, but I even left the Slide Glide off the gun while I was trying this out. Really, very impressive stuff. Let me know if anyone is interest in a contact for these guys, and I'll check the information at work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21 shooter Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I would be interested, especially if it would clean all the crap off of the cylinder of my 686. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Time and tank are your friends. Assuming you are not using something so agressive that it will chew up the gun, the longer you can soak it, and the larger the volume, the less elbow grease you will consume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I would be interested, especially if it would clean all the crap off of the cylinder of my 686. If anybody ever does find a product which is non corrosive that will strip the burned on carbon off a revo cylinder without scrubbing...... that will be the revo equivalent of the holy grail. I have seen products which claim it, none do it. That hard carbon burn ring inside the tube is the most aggravating thing to clean on earth. There is a new product on the market called Gunzilla. I used it on my 1911 when the sample came in the mail, and it worked great. Removed all the carbon, cleaned the barrel better than it had been for a while, and left a light film on the gun that is supposed to be a rust preventive. Plus, you can soak your fingers all day in the stuff as it is supposedly all natural plant extracts. I'm not big on CLPs, but this product has changed my mind. P.S. Don't tell Brian, but I even left the Slide Glide off the gun while I was trying this out. Really, very impressive stuff. Let me know if anyone is interest in a contact for these guys, and I'll check the information at work on it. Take a Q-Tip and apply it to the burned on carbon inside a revo cylinder tube. If it actually "lifts" that hard carbon ring off without scrubbing it, I'll be ordering a 50 gallon drum...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I would be interested, especially if it would clean all the crap off of the cylinder of my 686. If anybody ever does find a product which is non corrosive that will strip the burned on carbon off a revo cylinder without scrubbing...... that will be the revo equivalent of the holy grail. I have seen products which claim it, none do it. That hard carbon burn ring inside the tube is the most aggravating thing to clean on earth. The SLIP green "Carbon cutter" stuff supposedly does well on the outside of revo cylinders. A guy at the SC was raving about it. I was going to get some, but then the airplane people got all funny about liquids and snakes in carry-on baggage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrod2011 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Gunzilla Web Page We just got a stainless Ruger Single Six in that I'll clean tomorrow, and if I get positive results, I'll get pictures on Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 (edited) I would be interested, especially if it would clean all the crap off of the cylinder of my 686. If anybody ever does find a product which is non corrosive that will strip the burned on carbon off a revo cylinder without scrubbing...... that will be the revo equivalent of the holy grail. I have seen products which claim it, none do it. That hard carbon burn ring inside the tube is the most aggravating thing to clean on earth. The SLIP green "Carbon cutter" stuff supposedly does well on the outside of revo cylinders. A guy at the SC was raving about it. I was going to get some, but then the airplane people got all funny about liquids and snakes in carry-on baggage. I ordered the SLIP "carbon killer" and used it EXACTLY as they specify in their ads. IT DOES NOT WORK AS ADVERTISED. You remember that cylinder that came "shiny clean" with just a wipe off? Baloney. Somebody with a good right arm scrubbed that SOB. I soaked a cylinder in the stuff for days and the burned on carbon did not budge. (neither inside the tubes or on the surface). They refunded my money. It does work OK on loose carbon and grease. It does NOTHING against burned on carbon. Edited August 24, 2006 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo radley Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 OK -- decided to try this soaking business, with my G35, since it's time for new TruGrip, anyway. Brought water just to the point of boiling, and poured it into this red plastic bucket with a strong-ass solution of Simple Green®. Put the small parts in a strainer, to prevent the disposal from eating them, by accident. Let them soak a couple hours, then I put everything on a cutting board covered with newspaper, and shoved that in the oven for 20 minutes at 135 degrees F -- on the 'convection' setting. Martha Stewart would be proud. I will say this: there ain't NO grease/oil on anything, after this treatment. There were, however a couple areas of hardened powder residue here and there, that I still needed the Q-tip, or pointy-stick-and-paper-towel treatment on. I also found some tiny pieces of black plastic floating in the water I never did identify. Will I do it again? Probably not. Well, maybe just on the Glock frame to remove the grunge. But the pistol is certainly clean, now. Just not sure I'd do this with a metal gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trisha Lowry Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Ran out of everything and used charcoal lighter fluid once.... Seemed fine. Did you use your gun to cook barbecue? No silly, it’s his barbeque gun! (Barbeque Gun: An “extra fancy” sidearm, usually worn in an extra fancy “rig”, for pleasant social occasions (e.g. barbeques, church picnics etc.). Ed P.S. I use MP7, no stink, no "health" issues and it completely strips the gun of oil. I KNEW I was going to catch hell... It really did seem like it did a good job. Why did I just get a flash of Tim "the tool man" Taylor when you mentioned the barbeque gun??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrod2011 Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 The gunzilla removed 90% of the carbon after just letting it soak for 15 minutes, then taking a copper brush to it. Best thing I've seen. Gunzilla If you are in the D/FW Metroplex, Arlington Arms (where I work) has a small sample of it left. I'm having trouble getting the boss to order more of anything at the moment (for example, we only have one used Glock in stock) . But, the gunzilla is well worth the $8-$10 to try it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I will say this: there ain't NO grease/oil on anything, after this treatment. There were, however a couple areas of hardened powder residue here and there, that I still needed the Q-tip, or pointy-stick-and-paper-towel treatment on. I also found some tiny pieces of black plastic floating in the water I never did identify. Those black plastic bits... If they're flakes, they could be from your magazines... Ask me how I know... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af4cgEP74Ik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I live on the outskirts of Chicago and the winter indoor season is usually when I shoot the most. Summertime is for watching the ball game, grilling, , and ... Since I'm limited to cleaning indoors, and since I've got a parrot, I've been sold on using MPro7 cleaner to soak and dissolve the crud. MPro7 isn't really volatile and is non-toxic. I do clean with nitrile gloves, though, since all that lead residue and crap can't be good for my supple, feminine hands (Glock finger anyone?) Anyway, I just detail strip the pistol, put it in a plastic shoe box, then cover all the parts in MPro7. Let it soak, then attack with a tooth brush. I use a plastic dental pick to get at some nooks and crannies. Sometimes a bit of compressed air to blow out the FP channel. I recycle the MPro7 by pouring it through a fairly coarse filter and back into the jug. A hearty relube with MPro7 or S&W Teflon lube oil, and I'm good to go. BTW, I often wonder if Simple Green and MPro7 really aren't the same thing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleL Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 It's been my experience that harsh cleaners that remove all traces of everything just make crap stick to the gun better the next time around. Maybe I am alone on this? I just don't like that dried out white-ish result that requires me to completely disassemble or to over lube the gun to make sure I get some oil back on every nook and cranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recoil45 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I use Rem Action Cleaner. It works week and seems harmless to plastic which is a nice bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soterik Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 All good advice, but specifically which brake cleaner is safe to use on polymer? I have been using Winchester Polymer Safe Gun Scrubber for a while and it works great. But damn it's expensive. The question remains: Which alternative to Gun Scrubber is safe - safe on polymer and plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recoil45 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) I would not trust brake cleaner on any type of plastic. Rem Action Cleaner has never damaged my M&P or G17. It runs about $7 a can at Walmart. Edited June 16, 2012 by Recoil45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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