soterik

I just upgraded from a cheap Bushnell to a Vortex Ranger 1500 and would recommend it. First one I got was defective though. Wouldn't range shit. Sent it back to Vortex and they replaced it. New one works well so far but I haven't had much time to use it. The Sig was on also one I considered.

+1 to what limitedscott said they are reliable, function perfectly and inexpensive. If they held 2 more rounds they would be the only ones I use.

I had my slide work done by Fire 4 Effect and the quality of the machining and refinishing was excellent. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I also like that they have dozens different options so you can get the features that work best for you. For me I wanted truly functional and aggressive forward cocking serrations. You might also look at Way of the Gun and Primary Machine. I agree that machining a factory slide is the way to go rather than aftermarket. YMMV.

I know all Glocks basically look alike but I wanted to post my new blaster anyway. Slide work was done by Fire 4 Effect

Had the same question so I tested all the popular mags - fully loaded. On MY lower, a Troy mag was the easiest to seat. I didn't try a metal GI mag though.

I was going to say it isn't getting enough gas. Open up the GB a couple clicks. Happened to me over the weekend at Regional. Then you said it wouldn't even feed when using charging handle. Can you try a stronger spring on your JP SCS?

Fly Southwest. Ship your ammo to your hotel in advance.

Is there a match schedule ?

IMO it is a fraction wider due to the screw heads.

I've got 2 guns with SLR gasblocks (set screw) and KMR rails. No clearance issues. Fantastic combination of one of the best gasblocks out there plus THE lightest handguard.

I found the SLR set-screw gas blocks provided more clearance than the clamp-on versions. Not much, but enough.

New mag springs will help.

I got a Bar-Sto barrel for my M&P. Had them fit it also. Very disappointed. POI was off and accuracy was no better than KKM or Stormlake. I will never buy another Bar-Sto product. I will, however, buy other aftermarket barrels.

Where is a good online place to buy grip modules ?

^ awesomeness

+1 The Speed Shooters Specialties ESP Magwell is a very good design and well made.

Put one on my limited rifle a few months ago and really liking it. Like you said: small, fairly quiet, and works. Also lighter than many others.

I've got the Medium ScopeCoat and it works well.

JPeel: "The most important thing I did with both my versamax's was adjust the stock correctly for my mount. Once I did that my slug hit factor went way up." This ^ ! I learned that you have to make a shotgun fit YOU. Use the stock cast plates and try every combination. You will find one that works best.

Had same issue. Sent it back to Remington - twice. NO improvement. So I sent it to Rose Action Sports. Now it loads well.

What time is the shooter's meeting for the Saturday match? See ya'll there !

I did not modify the shell catch. That probably need some smoothing, but the biggest problem lies with the lifter on my gun.

My VM Comp is very hard to load. Shells get stuck on the lifter. It's like the lifter is too high. It interferes with the path into the tube. So I did a lot of filing on the lifter and it is still difficult to get rounds into it. Something isn't right. Everything looks like it fits right, but it doesn't. I think my issue is different than what most are talking about. I called Remington and told them about the problem. I'm sending it to them so they can fix it. Just sent it off today. I'll let you know what the outcome is.

Thanks Iowashooter. I saw your pictures (and printed them out) but couldn't tell exactly where you filed. I'll start by just filing the 2 "rails" on the inside of the lifter and see how it works.

I have a new VM Competition and think it will be a great shottie once I get the loading problem fixed. Right now, the shell is getting stuck on the lifter. I think this is the same problem them others are having. The lifter is too high and interferes with entry into the mag tube. My shells literally get stuck (see pic) and it takes a good deal of pressure to push them over the lifter. Question to those that have done this (Iowashooter) is: Should I file down the hump on the outside of the lifter or file the inside where the lifter contacts the bolt carrier? or both? I want to do as little as possible since you can't addd material back on once you take it off. Where should I start? Where does the lifter contact the carrier? Is it the 2 "rails" on each side I would file? Also, the shells are catching on something once they get past the lifter. I assume that is the shell catch. I will probably file that down some like Iowashooter did but want to address the lifter issue first.