MarkCO Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 We designed the Nordic barrel for competition, including a reduced diameter gas port to run with reduced mass set ups and not need an adjustable gas block. We designed our gas block and comp to compliment the attributes of the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepdog566 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I can't seem to remove the rubber bumper on my rifle buffer.I would like to remove some weights but can't get to the guts. Any suggestions on getting it out without tearing it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Did you punch the little pin out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepdog566 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Yep, punched the pin, but that sucker is in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Grab it with pliers and wiggle it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apetrulis01 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) Grab it with pliers and wiggle it out. That's what she said.........sorry, had to say it! Edited November 19, 2014 by apetrulis01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterpuc Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 We designed the Nordic barrel for competition, including a reduced diameter gas port to run with reduced mass set ups and not need an adjustable gas block. We designed our gas block and comp to compliment the attributes of the barrel. Mark, is this the Carbon Arms Nordic barrel they made for you... or every Nordic barrel? Just curious, I do eventually have to build up the plethora of lowers I have accumulated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 The 18" barrel we sell is the Nordic barrel, and only the 18" barrel has the "reduced" sized gas port. Nordic will drill out the gas port by request if you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSnSC Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Mark, I use the 18" Nordic barrel in my Irons rifle. I use a full mass carrier, standard rifle buffer, and spring. JP comp. My standard ammo is PMC XTac 55 grain. It's accurate out of my rifle, and I get it fairly cheap. Rifle is super reliable, but could shoot flatter. Am I going to beat up my rifle if I go to a reduced mass carrier? I really don't want to change ammo. FWIW, I spent almost twice as much for a Shilen barrel to use in a Precision AR and it doesn't shoot as well as my Nordic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepdog566 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 No luck getting that bumper out....guess I'll have to drop some coin on a JP or taccom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 No luck getting that bumper out....guess I'll have to drop some coin on a JP or taccom Try treating it like it's someone else's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I usually smash that lil f#$Ker (the poly buffer part) in a vice and then commence to bending and a twisting on the tube. Dan,s got it right! Treat it like it ain't yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepdog566 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Now that the 3 gun season is over...maybe I won't be as afraid to f it up....time to put my big boy pants on and get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDragon64 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Flat head screwdriver, get some leverage on that sucker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willz Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) I'm in the process of "tuning" my rifle. Tell me, am I going about this correctly? I have a Syrac GenII adjustable gas block. JP SCS and spring kit with a JP Low mass BCG. Oh, and a Miculek brake. I've so far only adjusted the gas block with the stock SCS spring so it will lock back on the empty mag with my 55 gr reloads. Then verified it would do the same with my 77 gr reloads. Recoil doesnt seem dramaticly different than running a standard full auto BCG. Maybe a bit less. My plan, along with trying to optimize the powder load on my reloads is to use the lightest spring in the JP kit for the SCS and dial down the gas again to just lock back on an empty mag and verify its not battering the rifle on my long range loads. I'm not shooting low velocity reloads. They are about in the middle of the load data I'm using. It doesn't make sense to me to load light and have to open the gas block full to get the action to cycle. I'd think having plenty of gas to cycle the action then bleeding excess gas off would result in less felt recoil. I understand that a light load will have even less felt recoil but I want the flexiblility and reliability to shoot heavier bullets for long range shots and plinker 55 gr stuff for close range. Edited January 2, 2015 by Willz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'm in the process of "tuning" my rifle. Tell me, am I going about this correctly? I have a Syrac GenII adjustable gas block. JP SCS and spring kit with a JP Low mass BCG. Oh, and a Miculek brake. I've so far only adjusted the gas block with the stock SCS spring so it will lock back on the empty mag with my 55 gr reloads. Then verified it would do the same with my 77 gr reloads. Recoil doesnt seem dramaticly different than running a standard full auto BCG. Maybe a bit less. My plan, along with trying to optimize the powder load on my reloads is to use the lightest spring in the JP kit for the SCS and dial down the gas again to just lock back on an empty mag and verify its not battering the rifle on my long range loads. I'm not shooting low velocity reloads. They are about in the middle of the load data I'm using. It doesn't make sense to me to load light and have to open the gas block full to get the action to cycle. I'd think having plenty of gas to cycle the action then bleeding excess gas off would result in less felt recoil. I understand that a light load will have even less felt recoil but I want the flexiblility and reliability to shoot heavier bullets for long range shots and plinker 55 gr stuff for close range. You're doing it right. The difference isn't like going from an AR20 ro a .22LR. It's like going from .20 splits to .15 splits. You're ringing the last few ounces of recoil from an already soft recoiling system. Shoot head shots at 25 yards and watch the difference in sight movement versus a full auto bcg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemmo Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) I'll just throw in that saving weight isn't always as important as some people like to think. To me the overall balance of the rifle is alot more important that weight itself. I went from a 16" inch to a 20" rifle for this season and all aspects of my shooting have been made easier from having a sort of heavy rifle (9.7 lbs). My splits on short range hosing is now fairly consistently 0.11-0.13 and my alpha percentage on all standing free hand shooting have greatly improved. I've made other improvements on this rifle compared to the old one as well, much in line with what's been discussed here already. But I also had the initial idea that weight itself doesn't necessarily have to be bad. I'm running the SJC break btw, Both myself and several other shooters on the national team here have tried several breaks, and the SJC is gaining popularity here. Edited January 2, 2015 by slemmo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'll just throw in that saving weight isn't always as important as some people like to think. To me the overall balance of the rifle is alot more important that weight itself. I went from a 16" inch to a 20" rifle for this season and all aspects of my shooting have been made easier from having a sort of heavy rifle (9.7 lbs). My splits on short range hosing is now fairly consistently 0.11-0.13 and my alpha percentage on all standing free hand shooting have greatly improved. I've made other improvements on this rifle compared to the old one as well, much in line with what's been discussed here already. But I also had the initial idea that weight itself doesn't necessarily have to be bad. I'm running the SJC break btw, Both myself and several other shooters on the national team here have tried several breaks, and the SJC is gaining popularity here. Heavy guns recoil less but .11-.13 AVERAGE splits? I can barely get a .13 split during mag dumps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemmo Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I've been playing computer games since 1981, lots of practice for the trigger finger If I'm doing something short range like a 2-2-2 drill I'm seeing 0.11 splits alot more often now than I used to. while 0.12-13 being somewhat more normal. Not that it really matters, as fast splits doesn't win rifle matches. The point is just that with a rifle that's tuned and not on the light side I can do this, and I couldn't with the lighter less optimal rifle. It would just bounce around too much, while the heavy-ish 20"er just stays put. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willz Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) Thanks guys... The only light weight item in my rifle the JP low mass BCG. That was just to reduce reciprocating mass. My rifle overall is a bit on the heavy side. Rainier Arms billet match upper and lower receiver, Magpul UBR stock and a WOA 16 inch Stainless barrel. Also the Vortex Razor 1x6 scope is pretty hefty. All that adds up to a pretty heavy rifle, combined with the tuning of the gas and buffer spring it should have very little felt recoil. I can't test drive it again till next Monday or Tuesday to be sure. Edited January 2, 2015 by Willz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Technique is certainly coupled with rifle weight. If you have good technique for the few long range shots we shoot on 3gun, a heavy rifle will slow you down on the fast stuff. If your long range needs help, a heavy rifle usually pays off. Kind of the inverse of trigger pull weight... Kind of. Edited January 3, 2015 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willz Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 In my limited 3 gun experience, seems a healthy sprint usually preceeds a series of long range shots. So, some rifle weight will help dampen the gasping and heaving from me trying to catch my breath and steady my shot at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishsticks Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 This seems like the right place to ask this - Currently running a carbine stock/buffer tube/spring with a "H" buffer. 16" mid gas Wilson Combat Barrel, JP lo-mass BCG, Syrac adj gas block and Surefire MB556 brake. Going to change to a MOE stock/rifle buffer tube/TTI light spring. My question is ---- will I need to remove one or more of the weights in the "H" buffer? As near as I can tell the JP lightened buffer weight is the same as the "H" buffer so I should be close? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike41 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 What Maintance in the way of cleaning your comp's do you do! What method and freq. to prevent the carbon build up? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 What Maintance in the way of cleaning your comp's do you do! What method and freq. to prevent the carbon build up? Mike If you live in a ban state, where the comp is pinned and welded, what would be the best way to get rid of that carbon buildup? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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