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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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Somebody asked for pictures of my chop job receiver work so here goes. I just ran into the back of the OEM tube. Probably went far enough forward, maybe.

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I was getting shells to stick on the way in. I'm thinking it was the area below the mag tube so I worked my way down in there to remove the sharp edges. A welded lifter might be a good guide straight into the tube rather than the crimps hitting the material all around the outside of the tube.

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Took some off the inside over there too. My M2 still loads easier. It's missing a lot of material. I'm trying to figure out what to chop next.

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Ya know Jessie, no one can say that you went conservative. ;)

I tend to agree with you on the welded lifter. It is definitely not "needed", but it would be nice....especially as we move the front of the loading port forward(further away from the front edge of the lifter. I have accidently "ghost loaded"(sorry for the term) a time or two when practicing reloaded and a slightly extended lifter would help prevent this.

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I've had several stick when practicing seemed like it was always the first shell going into the tube. I've also had Ryan experience of it "ghost loading" or whatever you may call it when I try to go to fast and don't shove my thumb in hard, so gun is back apart for more loading port work, slowly working up to Jesse's port

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Here is how the Kick eez KZ111 fits on the Stoeger M3000 stock. It would work but not quite my desired level of fit or finish.

Last night I happened to be swapping out a broken the plastic insert that holds my M2 butt pad in the stock. I held both the M3000 and the M2 stocks butt-to-butt and the shape is nearby identical. I think a guy could epoxy an M2 stock insert into a M3000 stock and aye an M2 pad. The screw retainer deals would have to be removed about 1/2-5/8" deep to get one in there. Mine looks like it would fit fine. The M2 butt pads come in 3 lengths too. But your talking a couple hundred bucks vs $30-40 for the kick eez. So probably not he budget type solution we are looking for.

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So my 24" came in on Tues. Picked it up on Tues.

Installed +5, follower, clamp and Bolt release button Tues night.

Thurs. (Last night) hit the garage with the die grinder, the dremel plus files and sandpaper.

It's not a deep and definately not a far forward as Jesse's....yet, I'll be shooting it for the first time tomorrow and we'll see.

Once I'm happy with it it will be covered in Cerakote.

Boy it needs a real front sight!

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Edited by ToysRUs
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So my 24" came in on Tues. Picked it up on Tues.

Installed +5, follower, clamp and Bolt release button Tues night.

Thurs. (Last night) hit the garage with the die grinder, the dremel plus files and sandpaper.

It's not a deep and definately not a far forward as Jesse's....yet, I'll be shooting it for the first time tomorrow and we'll see.

Once I'm happy with it it will be covered in Cerakote.

Boy it needs a real front sight!

It really does need a better front sight, but I suppose it's good for the money. I got my +6 on yesterday, and proceeded to shoot 150 rounds through it, gun ran great, 0 malfunctions.

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I amazed at how well my 24"3000 hits with slugs. I have only shot 3 slugs through mine, but they were all 3 in the -0 or -1 on an IDPA target at 100 yards. This was with the factory front sight(which does seem a little big, but it seems to work well).

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How much does this M3000 weigh vs. a M2? Also, will the M2 comfort tech buttstock fit this gun?

I think this will be the way to go for my sons vs. buying a M2 and doing much of the same work. It won't hurt me near as much to watch them throw a $450 gun in the barrel vs. a $1200 gun.

Modifications Needed:

Tom's MOA Precision tube nut.

which Nordic version tube the MXT or the previous version?

Stock or Nordic follower?

Machine out the loading port- Is anybody doing this as a service or is this a DIY (I am not mechanical!)

Who has a bolt release, and bolt handle?

You still could end up with almost $900~$1000 in a finished gun with the extra modifications.

Thanks,

Mike

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Is there anyway of setting this gun up so that when you stuff the mag full you can pull the bolt and get the mag to release and load the chamber? My FN operates like that and wondering if I'm missing something or have to use the shell release(bolt down on empty chamber start)

Thanks

Mildot

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Is there anyway of setting this gun up so that when you stuff the mag full you can pull the bolt and get the mag to release and load the chamber? My FN operates like that and wondering if I'm missing something or have to use the shell release(bolt down on empty chamber start)

Thanks

Mildot

Try playing with the little silver button by the trigger guard. A little more tricky than normal semi autos

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Is there anyway of setting this gun up so that when you stuff the mag full you can pull the bolt and get the mag to release and load the chamber? My FN operates like that and wondering if I'm missing something or have to use the shell release(bolt down on empty chamber start)

Thanks

Mildot

If you start empty chamber you always need to hit the shell release and leave a shell on the lifter when you stage your gun. That way when you pick it up you rack the bolt handle and go to work.

You won't be able to load the tube without the bolt closed either.

Last tip. If you run the gun dry during a stage and close the bolt on an empty chamber. You can load the mag tube and then simply pull the trigger to release a shell onto the lifter rather than search for the little shell release button.

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