Cleaning Solvents and Lubricants

[baron45]

Could anyone out there please recommend or suggest to me the best Cleaning Solvent and Lubricant for 1911 pistols?Also,please recommend and suggest to me the best Rust Prevention Solvent?

THANKS.

baron45

PS.I live in a place where humidity is very high.

THANKS

[kevin c]

For "best", you'll get as many opinions as forum members. As far as personal preferences go:

Solvent - Kroil for the bore, Shooter's Choice for powder/lube/oil residue cleanup, though Simple Green works in a pinch for everything but lead and copper in the bore.

Lubricant - I was using CLP and UltimaLube. Am switching to Brian's fine product for most lube work.

Rust Preventive - I don't care for the odd smell, but I do like Birchwood-Casey Sheath.

[Sixgun]

For solvent I use Hoppes #9, although I hear Starrett M1 is pretty good.

For lubrication I mainly use Mobil 1 5W30, but I am currently toying around with Slide Glide.

For rust prevention, I really like G96.

Ray

[Madmark]

For general cleaning/lubrication, I second the Mobil 1. The upside is it only costs $5.00 a quart. The downside is it must be put into a smaller bottle to make it user friendly.

For a competition based, proven lube that stays where you put it, try Brians slide glide. It comes in several thicknesses for hot or cold weather shooting. This is THE BOMB, for looser fitting guns.

[dajarrel]

I have found that Break-Free typically will clean most anything I need cleaning. I will occasionally use Mil-i-tec for exterior use if I know I'm going to be shooting in bad weather.

For internal lubrication, Slide-Glide is , IMHO, the ONLY way to go.

FWIW,

dj

[George]

For real mondo de-greasing, nothing beats BrakeKleen. For powder fouling and most bore cleaning, Kroil works fine for me.

If it‘s a semi-autopistol, SlideGlide is one of the better lubes out there. Otherwise I use JP red lube, or Castrol GTX 20-50 on my rifles and shotguns (I use it in my truck otherwise I would probably use Mobil 1 too).

For general metal treatment, I am starting to like BoeShield T9 because it leaves a dry film on metal that doesn’t attract dust. It also removes oxidization and other grunge nicely. I am also running a Major 9 Glock using Boeshield as the only metal treatment whatsoever and it seems to do quite well that way now (I used to run it dry).

--

Regards,

[SiG Lady]

I've found Shooter's Choice really cuts the gunky-buildup inside the gun (I kid my gun shop owner and call it 'paint remover'); Hoppe's #9 just doesn't work as well for my needs--and I don't like the smell. But I'm open to new ideas about cleaning and lubricating at this point.

[mcoliver]

Slide glide for lube, FP-10 for the rest of the other stuff.

[Eye Cutter]

I also use Mobil 1 since i ran out of Breakfree CLP 2 yrs ago. Hoppes No. 9 for general barrel cleaning. Birchwood Casey Rust Sheath Preventive for storage.

I'd like to try the slide glide if i can mooch some from mc_oliver!

[Jasonub]

fp10

[Singlestack]

Hoppe's #9 just doesn't work as well for my needs--and I don't like the smell.

Don't like the smell?!?!?! It brings back many fond memories for me.

I use Slide Glide on the whole top and paper towels to remove it. I follow Will's advise on the bore. STI Trigger Slick on the hammer & sear, Rem Oil on the pins and stuff.

[SiG Lady]

Hoppe's #9 is kinda sweet and cloying compared to the no-nonsense toxicity of Shooter's Choice--a slightly cleaner smelling compound. It also doesn't linger as much after cleaning as Hoppe's.

I can understand the olfactory association thing. Perhaps a little of the Shooter's Choice fragrance I already associate with my last couple of years of shooting, I dunno. It's the smell of gunsmoke itself that means more, actually... olfactory association-wise.

[Jeffro]

I can understand the olfactory association thing. Perhaps a little of the Shooter's Choice fragrance I already associate with my last couple of years of shooting, I dunno. It's the smell of gunsmoke itself that means more, actually... olfactory association-wise.

When I lay my weary head on my pillow at night, drift off to sleepyland, and dream of SigLady, she ALWAYS has a touch of Hoppe's #9 stratigically applied to herself..................... She knows that drives me wild. Damn............ I just hate to awaken in the morning!!!

Jeffro

[SiG Lady]

Criminy...!

[Penny]

I tried a sample of Hoppe's Elite recently.

It's supposedly not petroleum based, non-toxic, and seemed to work pretty well. It got the job done well enough that I'll probably buy a larger container to try again. I've been using Hoppe's Benchrest, but that stuff usually gives me a splitting headache.

I like FP10 for oil too -- I like the way it smells

[froglegs]

If your using fp-10 then you need shooters choice "rust prevent" the fp-10 has no rust preventative in it and the rust prevent works super with fp-10 as it was made to go with it! PS: penny... I'm concerned about your "sniffing habit" try the RUST PREVENT" smells GOOOOOD

[.40AET]

Outers Nitro Solvent for cleaning. Comes in an aerosol can and is easy to spray on and wipe most of the crud out. I'm lazy about cleaning and this stuff is fast and good. For super built up crud I have been using Shooters Choice. It's great, but the fumes are too strong for every day cleaning. FP-10 for lube and STI trigger slick on the hammer and sear.

[wadrew]

Hey guys,

I prefer one lube above all. Most work okay for some conditions, but one works the best in all of them. GunButter.

Soak then Clean your gun with paint thinner, carb cleaner, whatever solvent that won't harm your finish and does not contain any lubricants.

Use a toothbrush, old t-shirt, and some q-tips. Clean and bone dry.

Apply the gunbutter lightly to ALL of the shiny or wear/contact areas of the gun.

You can use too much of the lube and it won't gum up.

To re-clean, just wipe it clean and dry with a clean cloth/toothbrush/q-tip method (no solvents the 2nd time you clean it after shooting it) and re-lube.

No need for solvents any more. It has detergents in it. (but no solvents)

It displaces contaminants (carbon/gunpowder/dirt/dust/water), and stays put even better than mobile-1. Doesn't get gummy or thick like other lubes, and works just as well at 10 degrees f as it does 110 degrees f.

No need to ever re-lube during a shoot.

Won't slow down slide velocity. great for hammer/sear surfaces, since it is very temperature tolerant and won't change the metal surfaces.

www.gunbutter.com

www.xd-gear.com

Try it and you will not be dissapointed.

Many lubes work well, but this stuff works the best in every gun and every condition that I have tried.

[reneet]

NEW Hoppe's Bore Gel for cleaning barrel

FP-10 for lubricant (will also serve as cleaner)

[rhino]

I've switched from TetraLube oil to FP-10 on my ARs. Both worked well, but I wanted to support a company that supports our games.

On my pistolas, I still use TW25B grease for my carry guns, but for shooting in matches, I've been using KelLube for the past few months. That stuff is very, very good. Very slippery and I'm amazed at how clean the gun stays. Plus it's thick enough to stay put a lot longer than most oil-type lubes.

[Smokecloud]

for the bulk of cleaning, I just use Hoppe's, I like the smell and it is cheap ($9.00 a quart). shooters choice works well for harder to remove gunk. I usually use tetra for the bore and my version of Slide Glide is Amsoil greasefor the moving parts, looks and works like slide glide, you can purchase it in different weights and its only a few bucks for a tube. in really cold weather like +10 to -20F I use plain 'ol white lithium grease, I buy it in the parts store and cant tell the difference between it and Wilsons ultimalube except the price. As far as rust prevention, any gun oil, rem oil, castrol, Kroil etc will work for wiping down the outside finish, then i wipe it dry after applying the oil. A big safe with an electronic humidity control rod is what I use for long term storage, no cases, they sit on the open shelf. Living in the high desert helps a lot also.

rifles are about the same except I use Sweets for copper fouling and if its really bad Wipeout is about the easiest when I feel particulary lazy. If I feel attentive and motivated, the outers foul out III removes copper like nothing I have ever seen, but it require a lot of babysitting.

[D.carden]

????

While browsing web sites on CLP's today, i came across a site that explained ( by our troops in iraq) that the current CLP in use by the army isnt doing so well in the "sandy" conditions. The statement did'nt disclose what CLP was currently in use, but some troops swithed ( on there own it sounds like) to MILTEC-1, and said it was a better product.

Does anyone know what the military uses?

Has anyone used this MILTEC-1 as a CLP?

Results if any please!

Dan

[rishii]

Has anyone used this MILTEC-1 as a CLP?

I've used militec-1 years ago, and it was just ok as a lube.

I got a sample of kelube about 5 years ago, and fell in love with the stuff, that and slideglide are all I use.

btw, I don't think militec is a CLP, it was first marketed as a motor oil additive

[bountyhunter]

MILITEC is excellent for lube, OK for cleaning, worthless as a rust protectant. So that makes it a:

C (sort of)

L (definitely)

P (no way!)

[jcmios]

Ammo can half full of Du Ponts Prep Sol for the entire gun and barrel. Oils are Break Free, FP-10 Mil Tech and Mobil 1

Been at it for over 24 years and the Prep Sol is the best.

Jim